1. Lyon silk sample book 1760 V&A ref. no T.373-1972
Ruiha Smalley

2. Boutida a mouche broche
Plain weave with a circular decorative element brocaded with a supplementary weft. Pile weft forms a circle motif (1.8 cm in diameter) arranged mostly as an 8 end, irregular satin. Edges vary to accommodate the shaping of the circle.
1 warp: Silk
X-ply S
Yellow
Approx. 46 ends cm
2 wefts: Ratio 3:1
Ground - Silk
X-ply, no evidence of twist
Approx. 36 picks cm
Pile - Silk
Maroon

3. Batavia raye et cadrille
Striped and banded twill Battavia with double warps.
1 warp: Silk
X-ply, no evidence of twist, double - arranged mostly as repeated colours but on occasion singles will differ in colour, often when using the black
Dark and light pink, white, black, red, orange, green
Approx 44 ends cm
1 weft: Silk
2 elements
1) X-ply, slight S, light pink paired with 1 ply, slight S, double, dark pink
2) X-ply, no evidence of twist, white – for banding Approx 38 picks cm

4. Prussiennes
Background of plain weave with designs of small, stylized and repetitive floral motifs created by warp floats.
1 warp: Silk
X-ply, slight S
Alternating white and pink
Approx 68 ends cm
1 weft: Silk
X-ply, no evidence of twist
Blue
Approx 42 picks cm

5. Persanne a grand bouquet
Ribbon (6.5 cm in width) in compound weave. A plain weave derivative ground (Gros de Naple) with floral designs produced through bringing the warp and weft forward. When pile warps are not showing they (are assumed to) float at the back. The tree branches and one half of the large leaves use the second warp (maroon); the other half of the large leaves use weft 1 (white); the stylised, oval leaves use weft 2 (violet). The large leaves are speckled with seven segments while the small leaves are solid ovals with seven segments. The fabric does not appear to be reversible but the underside cannot be examined.
2 warps:
Ground - Silk
X-ply, slight S
Yellow
Approx 88 ends cm
Pile - Silk
X-ply, S
Maroon
2 wefts:
X-ply, no evidence of twist
White
Approx 20 picks cm
Violet

6. Gros de Florence
Striped and banded plain weave with thick weft, with the very occasional double warp of a different colour. Stripes are produced not only through changing the colour of the warp but also in changing its thickness.
1 warp: Silk
X-ply, slight S
Light blue / silver / tawn / maroon / white / dark maroon / red arranged over a variety of ends
84–92 ends cm
1 weft: Silk
X-ply, no evidence of twist
Light maroon, (presumed white as well)
Approx. 38 picks cm
[Note: Like the Gros de Naple but perhaps the difference is the changing warp thicknesses and the occasional double warp?]

7. Angleterre chang? raye et cadrille
Chequered plain weave with thick weft. Changes in colour producing the stripes and bands of the cheques.
1 warp: Silk
X-ply, no evidence of twist
White / light pink / orange / red / maroon / red / orange pink / dark pink / light pink arranged over a variety of ends
Approx. 88–92 ends cm
1 weft: Silk
Arranged as 22 light blue / 6 white
Approx. 38 picks cm
[Note: Like the Gros de Naple but do the cheques make it Angleterre?]

8. Cannellee
Cannellee on groups of 2 ends, 6 picks: 3 picks plain weave, 3 picks bundled.
1 warp: Silk
X-ply, slight S
Red
Approx. 72 ends cm
1 weft: Silk
X-ply, no evidence of twist
Approx. 18 picks cm
[Note: like the other canneles but with the separation of the plain weave and bundles in horizontal bands. Like a plain weave but where the 4th pick is extended over 3 picks not 1]

9. Cannellee velouten
A plain weave binding with a pile warp of 9 pick,1 pick.
2 warps: Ratio 2:1
Binding - Silk
X-ply, no evidence of twist
Blue
Approx. 80 ends cm
Pile - Silk
X-ply, S
Approx. 40 ends cm
1 weft: Silk
Approx. 21 picks cm
[Note: an extended cannele simplete but a longer float and a smaller ratio so maybe this gives it its different name]

10. Cannellee ou Royale
In groups of 12 pile ends arranged as 5 pick 1 pick, over a plain weave ground.
2 warps: Ratio 2:1
Binding - Silk
X-ply, no evidence of twist
Blue
Approx. 64 ends cm
Pile - Silk
X-ply, slight S
Approx. 32 ends cm
1 weft: Silk
X-ply, no evidence of twist, double
Approx. 30 picks cm

11. Cannellee - decorated
A decorative fabric using supplementary wefts and the pile weft to create floral and geometric motifs over differing ground weave structures. The droguet liseres (?) (over a plain weave) creates weft faced floral and geometric icons in pale blue / light blue / white / black / brown. Here a band of black (and blue shaded) flowers on stems twist around a band of blue and white repeated, geometric shapes. The droguet liseres (?) alternates with a dauphine (?) (over a cannellee) to create weft-faced floral icons in pale green / light green / dark green / white / pale pink / light pink / dark pink / red / yellow. The cannellee (simplete?) is arranged with pile warp of 9 picks 1 pick; 3 picks 1 pick over a tabby ground.
2 warps: Ratio 2:1
Binding - Silk
X-ply, no evidence twist
Blue
Approx 112 ends cm
Pile - Silk
X-ply, S
Approx. 56 ends cm
3 wefts: Ratio 3:1 (binding:pile)
Approx. 48 picks cm
X-ply, thick
White
Approx. 16 picks cm
Supplement - Silk
Various colours
The black/brown is made of 2 threads. Black is 1-ply and is wound around a thick,
x-ply brown.

12. Taffetus
A decorative fabric with a shot, plain weave base using supplementary weft to create the pattern (droguet liseres?). The decoration is of white floral motifs.
1 warp: Silk
X-ply, no evidence of twist
Blue
Approx. 100 ends cm
2 wefts
Ground - Silk
Pink
Approx. 46 picks cm
Pile - Silk
X-ply, no evidence twist
White
This weft is used as a single thread at points and then two are Z twisted together to create other areas of pattern

13. Satin amouche
An 8 end satin, 3 shift, warp-faced; with twill decorative motifs. The motifs are circles formed by a weft-faced twill, mostly 1:4 varying at the edges. The rows of circles alternate between S or Z direction.
1 warp: Silk
X-ply, slight S
Red
Approx. 80 ends cm
1 weft: Silk
X-ply, no evidence of twist
White
Approx. 32 picks cm