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Coastal Erosion Workshop
SoMAS 10/12/2018
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Wave Observations NDBC 44040 western sound and 44039 central sound
Locally wind forced; different directional characteristics. Largest waves from northeast. WaveWatch III hindcasts indicates long period swell doesn’t enter sound
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Waves 44040
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Wind 44040
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Waves 44039
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Wind 44039
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Surge Observations Superposition of astronomical tides and surge.
Surge is setup driven by local along channel winds plus coastal surge For slow moving storms setup is controlled by a steady force balance between pressure gradient and wind stress. For fast moving storms like Sandy, setup is determined by an unsteady balance between acceleration, pressure gradient and wind stress.
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Modeling Can quantify effects of wave, current, surge interaction on coastal erosion and sediment movement in very high spatial resolution Community model COWAST: ROMS (3D hydrodynamic model), SWAN (wave model), CSTM (community sediment transport model) Can identify vulnerable coastal segments. Quantify longshore sediment transport patterns. Quantify effects of coastal structures on sediment transport.
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X- direction Y-direction Number of cells 279 42 Mean cell size (m) 163 265
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X- direction Y-direction Number of cells 162 42 Mean cell size (m) 178 218
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Nearshore Observations
Bottom mounted ADCP doppler profiler Directional waves Currents Water level Can quantify our understanding of nearshore waves, currents and water level
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