1. Coastal Erosion Workshop
SoMAS
10/12/2018

2. Wave Observations NDBC 44040 western sound and 44039 central sound
Locally wind forced; different directional characteristics.
Largest waves from northeast.
WaveWatch III hindcasts indicates long period swell doesn’t enter sound

4. Waves 44040

5. Wind 44040

6. Waves 44039

7. Wind 44039

13. Surge Observations Superposition of astronomical tides and surge.
Surge is setup driven by local along channel winds plus coastal surge
For slow moving storms setup is controlled by a steady force balance between pressure gradient and wind stress.
For fast moving storms like Sandy, setup is determined by an unsteady balance between acceleration, pressure gradient and wind stress.

23. Modeling
Can quantify effects of wave, current, surge interaction on coastal erosion and sediment movement in very high spatial resolution
Community model COWAST: ROMS (3D hydrodynamic model), SWAN (wave model), CSTM (community sediment transport model)
Can identify vulnerable coastal segments.
Quantify longshore sediment transport patterns.
Quantify effects of coastal structures on sediment transport.

28. X- direction
Y-direction
Number of cells
279 42
Mean cell size (m)
163
265

30. X- direction
Y-direction
Number of cells
162 42
Mean cell size (m)
178
218

33. Nearshore Observations
Bottom mounted ADCP doppler profiler
Directional waves
Currents
Water level
Can quantify our understanding of nearshore waves, currents and water level