1. Stable Practices
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2. Stable Practices Overview
Stable Routines
Maintaining Saddlery
Stable Duties
Mucking equipment
Mucking out method
Bedding
Feeding equipment
Pulling a Mane Video
Pulling Tails
Trimming
Trimming Video
Preventing Rug Rubs

3. Stable Routines Feeding up Cleaning tack Cleaning tack
Involves removing dirt and grime from riding equipment and conditioning or oiling the leather to maintain flexibility and prolong its life
Feeding/Feeding up
Usually performed at least twice a day. You will be required to prepare feeds by mixing and measuring quantities and distributing to it to horses
Cleaning tack

4. Stable Routines (cont.)
Mucking out
Other stable tasks
Mucking out
Cleaning and removing manure and soiled bedding from stables/stalls/boxes
Other stable tasks
Could range from sweeping or hosing the aisle, performing maintenance duties such as paint touch ups, grooming, saddling, unsaddling, hosing or washing horses, holding horses for the vet or farrier, even unloading a feed truck

5. Maintaining Saddlery Saddle soap Glyserine saddle soap
There are many different products available to assist in the cleaning and conditioning of leather equipment
Glycerine Saddle soap
Is made up of high glycerine content to soften, nourish and clean leather. The usual compounds in this soap are glycerine, waxes, cleaning agents and fragrances. It is available as a solid and a liquid
Saddle soap
Made from natural waxes, this type is ideal for cleaning and produces soft and supple leather and is free from alkaline which can have an negative effect on some leather
Glyserine saddle soap

6. Maintaining Saddlery (cont.)
Neatsfoot Oil
Leather conditioner
Leather conditioners or oils can come in creams and liquids and many are available with different oils, waxes and other penetrating agents which will help to soften, preserve and waterproof leather.
Leather conditioner
This brand contains natural oils such as beeswax, lanolin and emu oil
Neatsfoot oil
Is an oil which is produce and purified from the shin bones of cattle. It is useful for conditioning, preserving and softening leather but may cause darkening on newer leather
Leather dressing
These are useful to improve flexibility and suppleness of leather and also to protect it from the elements. Contain waxes and oils
Leather Dressing

7. Maintaining Saddlery (cont.)
String girths
Girths and Saddlecloths:-
Girths, saddlecloths and girth covers or sleeves will need to be regularly cleaned and washed to prevent rubbing and chaffing on the horse.
Leather girths will need to be cleaned in the same way as saddles and bridles. Once they become hard and dry they crack and cause discomfort to the horse.
String girths should be washed in soap and water, then dry thoroughly before use.
Webbing or pvc girths can be brushed or washed as required
Maintenance checks:-
Regular maintenance checks should be done on gear to make sure it is in good, safe working order. Any repairs should be seen to promptly and the gear not used until repaired. On saddles, panel stuffing, stitching, buckles and lining should be check for breaks, wear and damage.
Check the stitching on all parts of the bridle.
Saddlecloths tend to wear thin and fray, make sure they’re not causing horse discomfort.
Pvc girths

8. Stable Duties Mucking out
Equipment
You may require some variations of tools for mucking out depending upon the type of bedding used. However the general idea is the same, to remove manure and soiled or wet bedding.
Fork
Used when working with straw, never point or use the fork towards the horse. A fork can be used to break up fresh straw bales and to remove manure and wet straw
Manure fork
This tool is used when mucking out sawdust or shavings as it will allow the bedding to be sifted out through the prongs but hold the manure. Never point or use the fork in the direction of the horse
Shovel 
Useful for moving large quantities of bedding

9. Stable Duties Mucking out (cont.)
Equipment
Wheelbarrow
Used for moving fresh or soiled bedding and manure
Bucket
In many shapes and forms are used for collecting soiled bedding in the stall to put it into the wheelbarrow. This allows more room to work by leaving the wheelbarrow outside
Broom
For sweeping stray bits of bedding

10. Stable Duties (cont.) Bedding
Straw
Rice hulls
Type
Straw
Advantage
Warm bedding
Inexpensive
Disadvantage
 Some horse may eat it. Doesn’t absorb liquid well
Sawdust/Shavings
Absorbent
 Disadvantage
Can get dusty
Can be expensive in some countries
Shavings sometimes contain small hard pieces
Rice hulls
Advantages
Cheap
Easily decompose
 Can get dusty
Can irritate sensitive skin
Sawdust/Shavings

11. Stable Duties Bedding (cont.)
Rubber matting
Type
Sand
Advantage
Durable
Readily available
Disadvantage
Cold
Damp
Soiled bedding difficult to get rid of
The risk of colic from ingestion
Rubber matting
Less shavings required
Saves time on cleaning and expenses
Installation is expensive
Sand

12. Stable Duties Feeding Feed bin Hay feeder
Depending upon the horse and how it is kept (i.e. stable or paddock) and the quality of pasture will determine the type and quantities of feed it is fed. A horse which is kept in a stable will have higher requirements for roughage than one which has access to grazing all day.
Any feed which is left over from previous meals should be disposed of accordingly. It should be removed and thrown away. Left over feed will start to go stale and mouldy.
Listed below are some common feeding equipment.
Feed bin and Hay feeder
A bin which usually attaches to the wall which you can put mixed feeds and hay
Feed bin
Hay feeder

13. Stable Duties Feeding (cont.)
Feed scoop
Feed scoop
For preparing feeds
Haynet
Holds hay up off the ground. Care needs to be taken to ensure the net wont hang low where the horse can get its legs stuck once it becomes empty
Scales
For weighting feedstuffs. Feeds should be weight for accuracy rather than relying on volume measurements
Hay-net
Scales

14. Pulling a Mane Video Pulling manes:-
This involves pulling longer strands of hair out of the horses’ mane to make it all the same length and easier to plait. There are very few nerves endings at the base of the mane so most horses give minimal objection although some may dislike it more than others.
You will need a halter and lead rope to tie the horse up, and a mane or tail comb. It tends to be slightly easy with a smaller comb and if you pull the mane after the horse has been worked or exercised the mane will pull out easier because the skin pores will be open.
Start by combing through the mane to remove any knots or tangles
Then begin at one end and select small amounts of hair from under the mane (that way there will be no fuzzy on top of the mane when it grows back)
Grasp the ends of the hair in your fingertips and tease or comb the short strands of hair upwards towards the base of the neck
Twist the long strand around the comb (once will be enough)
Hold the comb and hair and give a quick, sharp, downwards pull and the hair should release from the mane
If you have too much hair twisted around the comb it will not come out easily and the horse is likely to object. It can also help to dampen the hair, particularly if it is fuzzy. There are devices available that are combs combined with a cutting edge which cut the mane after you have teased it. Thinning combs have a simular action. But never use scissors, they produce a ‘bob’ style cut which makes plaits difficult to anchor to the base of the neck.
For thick or long manes it may be necessary to pull over a few days.

15. Pulling Tails A clipped tail Trimming a tail Pulling tails:-
Tails need to be pulled over a longer period of time than manes because of more nerves endings in the dock. Pull the tail a little more each time you groom the horse. Pulling will make for a tidier, more manageable tail.
You will need to be careful how much you pull out because the tail will take longer to grow back.
The alternative to pulling tails is clipping with horse clippers alternatively this can be done with scissors (preferably with blunt or rounded ends) by a practiced hand but must be done carefully so as not to injure the horse.
You will use the same process to pull the tail as for the mane, with the exception that you will only pull hairs from the dock.
When you clip the tail the hair is taken off from both sides of the dock, starting from the top of the tail down to about the point of buttock. Sometimes it will be necessary to tidy the top of the dock as well.
Have an assistant hold their arm under the horses’ tail, this will help simulate how the tail will be carried when it is in motion.
Hold the hair together and using clippers or scissor cut the end off in a straight line.
It will help to keep the bottom of the tail level if you make the trim at a very slight angle, upwards towards the hind legs. By doing this the hair on top or outer side of the tail wont end up shorter than those closest to the horse.
Trimming a tail

16. Trimming Fetlocks & Coronets Hairy fetlocks Trimmed/clipped legs
This involves the removal of long, untidy hairs from the horses’ body, usually from the fetlocks, coronet, head and ears, wither, poll and tail. But in some breeds, like Clydesdales, it is part of show turnout to have long hairy feathers.
Using clippers the hair is removed quickly but care must be taken as some horses will not like the noise or even the feel of the clippers on their body. Seasoned show horses aren’t usually bothered by them.
Before clipping a horse it should be shampooed to remove as much dirt, dandruff and scuff from the coat because this will make clipper blades blunt. Wet hair will do the same. Trimming can also be done with scissors (preferably ones with a blunt or rounded ends) and a horse razor but again care needs to be taken.
If the rest of the horses’ body isn’t clipped you will need to be careful not to take off too much hair.
It is safer to have a handler help you restrain the horse.
Fetlocks & Coronets:-
If using scissors use the comb to comb out and hold long strands then cut with scissors.
Clippers can be used in an upwards motion from the heel and around the coronet. It may be necessary to hold the leg to access areas close to the ground.
Trimmed/clipped legs

17. Trimming (cont.) Trimmed/clipped head Hairy ears Head & Ears
When trimming ears pinch the sides of the ear together and trim off the excess that sticks out.
This should only be done with clippers.
The muzzle and under the jaw can be done with a horse razor but you will get better and quicker results with clippers.
Head & Ears

18. Trimming (cont.) Trimmed bridle path (poll) Hairy wither
Withers & Polls:-
A trimmed bridle path (poll) will allow bridles, head collar or halters to sit comfortably on the horses head.
The bridle path will start from just behind the ears and forelock and can be approximately 2-5 inches long.
The hair can be removed with scissors (as always to so with care) and then tidied up with a horse razor.
Clippers, again will be quicker but have another person to help hold the horse while you trim this area.
Hairy withers can cause rubbing under saddle blankets. The hair can be removed in the same manner as the bridle path.
Hairy wither

19. A ‘Bib’ which is worn underneath rugs
Preventing Rug Rubs
A ‘Bib’ which is worn underneath rugs
Horses which are rugged, particularly those that are heavily rugged or clipped sometimes get small patched of broken and frayed hair on their shoulders, wither or hips. This is from friction cause by the rug when the horse moves. It can be minimised by the horse wearing a bib underneath its rug. Bibs are usually made from satin or a simular material which will allow the rug material to slide easily when the horse moves rather than cause friction. Some bibs may also have extra padding in the shoulder area.

20. After the Video Tutorial
View the Power Point Presentation and see if you can discuss each slide
View the Video Tutorial again, if necessary
Read the Workbook
Do the Extension Lesson
Complete the Online Quizzes
Complete the Practical Assessments
Join Phone Tutorials if available
Listen to Phone Tutorial Recordings