1. Formulating for Performance While Minimizing Irritation
Mild Surfactants
Formulating for Performance
While Minimizing Irritation
Customer / Date

2. Agenda Introduction to Elé Corporation Surfactants Types Examples
PEL-ALC CA-205P (nonionic)
PEL-SULF PEG-12D (anionic)
PEL-QUAT SL-5 (cationic)
PEL-AMPH ALP (amphoteric)
Will introduce Elé Corporation.
Briefly review the types of surfactants based on ionic charge and typical characteristics.
Share specific product examples from Elé’s surfactant line and how to formulate with them to minimize irritation in your finished product.

3. Manufacturing near Chicago Since 1945
Ability to manufacture 1000 kg to 40 metric tons
Alkoxylation
Polymerization
Ethoxylation
Neutralization
Propoxylation
Quaternization
Amidification
Saponification
Aminomethylation and other Mannich reactions
Esterification
Hydrosilylation
Elé Corporation was founded in 1945 near Midway airport in Chicago. We service many industries such as polyurethane (silicone surfactants & catalysts), metalworking, ag, and personal care. Elé manufactures all our products through a variety of processes. We are skilled at alkoxylation and making silicone polyethers. Elé is uniquely positioned to support our customers from inception, thru scale up to full production. A large number of varied sized reactors allow us to cost effectively make from very small MOQs all the way up to bulk. In addition, we have the ability to tailor products to meet customer needs. We are capable and agile.

4. What do surfactants do? Emulsifying Dispersing / Solubilizing Foaming
Detergency/Cleaning
Conditioning
Wetting
Thickening

5. Surfactant Irritation
Surfactants can also solubilize natural skin lipids
Denature skin proteins
Result is irritation and inflammation
Sometime surfactants can work too well
Thus the need for mild surfactants in personal care products

6. Surfactant Selection
Surfactants vary widely in their irritation potential.
Surfactant Irritation Profile by Charge/Type
Nonionic < Amphoteric < Anionic / Cationic
However: there are mild choices in each category
Careful surfactant choice allows mild formulations without compromising performance
Surfactants vary widely in their irritation potential.
Nonionic (0) are the least irritating, then amphoteric surfactants (+/-). Anionic (-) and Cationic (+) are the most irritating.
Nonionics like the PEL-ALC line, contain:
Ethylene Oxide/EO or Polyethylene Glycol/PEGs and/or
Propylene Oxide/PO or polypropylene glycol/PPG
The more EO/PO, the more mild the surfactant.
If looking to move away from PEGs, Amphoterics are a logical mild surfactant choice

7. Surfactant Types Type Subtypes - Attributes Nonionic Anionic Cationic
Alkoxylates (PEGs, PPGs, PEG/PPG copolymers), Alkanolamides (DEA, DIPA, MIPA, etc.), Alkyl Glucosides (Decyl, Lauryl, Coco)
Hydrogen bonding provides water solubility
Generally low irritation and toxicity
Mainly used for emulsification, thickening, and other functions
Anionic
Sulfates, Sulfonates, Carboxylates, Sulfosuccinates, Phosphates, Glutamates, Taurates, Isethionates, etc.
Negatively charged head, relatively harsh, excellent foamers/detergents
Cationic
Quaternary ammonium (Benzyl chloride quats, DES quats, etc.), Amine salts (Lactates, propionates), Amines (Alkyl dimethyl amines)
Positively charged head, relatively harsh, typically used as conditioners or preservatives, Not all are compatible with anionic surfactants
Amphoteric
Amphoacetates, Amphopropionates, Amino/iminopropionates, Betaines, Hydroxysultaines
Both positive & negative head charges, relatively mild, typically used as secondary surfactants, good foaming, compatible with most other PC ingredients
Surfactants are categorized based on the charge (or lack thereof) of their polar headgroup: nonionic, anionic (-), cationic (+), and amphoteric (+/-). Elé makes a wide range of
nonionic alkoxylates and alkanolamides
anionic sulfosuccinates and phosphates
cationic ammonium chloride quats
varied amphoterics: amphoacetates, amphopropionates, and hydroxysultaines
Manufactured by Elé

8. Alkoxylates (nonionic)
As the amount of EO (PEG) increases:
Hydrophilicity increases
Water solubility increases
HLB increases
Mildness increases
As the amount of PO (PPG) increases:
Some thing to keep in mind about alkoxylates…
PO has much less effect on water solubility, etc. But can effect the melting point of products and their interactions in solutions, depending on how it’s incorporated in the polymer.
e.g., if interspersed with EO, can make a normally solid product a liquid.

9. Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance
HLB Values of selected PEL-ALC products
This chart shows the HLB (hydrophobic - lipophobic balance) values of a sampling of the alcohol alkoxylates made by Elé. The first letters indicate the alcohol and the number after indicates the number of moles of EO.
OA – oleth
LA – laureth
OD – octyldodeceth
CSA – ceteareth
CA - Ceteth
By changing the starting alcohol and the amount of EO, you can go anywhere from a low to a very high HLB.
On the right side of the chart you can see the different functions that surfactants of different HLBs perform. …

10. PEL-ALC CA-205P INCI Name: PPG-5-Ceteth-20 Structure:
Here is an example of a product with both EO & PO.
Cetyl alcohol with 20 moles EO and 5 moles PO.
Idealized structure shown - PO not actually on end- PO/EO/PO/EO – it is dispersed through out the alcohol chain
By breaking up the EO chain with PO, the molecule becomes a liquid.

11. PEL-ALC CA-205P (PPG-5-Ceteth-20)
Features/Benefits
Nonionic
Emulsifier (HLB 15.9)
Emollient
Extremely mild
Adds lubricity to hair
Fragrance solubilizer
Hair resin plastisizer
Good wetting
Applications
Lotions/creams
Bath oils
Hair sprays
Shampoos/Conditioners
Clear gels
Antiperspirants
PEL-ALC CA-205P is extremely mild as it has many moles of EO and PO. It also has a very high molecular weight, therefore making it an excellent oil in water emulsifier with a high HLB. It can be used to solubilize fragrances and to soften hair resin plastisizers like PVP. It’s highly desirable attributes make it a good fit in many different types of personal care products.

12. PEL-ALC CA-205P (PPG-5-Ceteth-20)
Irritation vs. other Nonionics
As noted earlier, most nonionic surfactants are pretty mild, but there are exceptions.
This chart shows relative skin irritation (yellow bars) and eye irritation (green bars) at 10% active ingredient at a pH 7
PEL-ALC CA-205P, circled on the left, is extremely mild – similar to PEG-20 sorbitan laurate.
Others are not quite so mild – see oleth-20, C12-15 pareth-7
Even some glucosides are pretty harsh at this concentration (glucosides are generally thought of as being quite mild, but at above 5%, they do start becoming irritating

13. PEL-ALC CA-205P (PPG-5-Ceteth-20)
Formulation Guidelines
To make O/W emulsions:
To solubilize fragrance or other insoluble oils:
May be added to water phase or oil phase
Premix with PEL-ALC CA-205P, then add to water/surfactants phase
Pretty flexible – water or oil phase HEAT water!
Can be heated pretty hot (+80⁰C/176⁰F) without ill effects
Nonionics are known to reduce the effectiveness of parabens

14. Other Mild Nonionics Product INCI HLB PEL-ALC CSA-25 Ceteareth-25 16.4
PEL-ALC IC-20-70
Isoceteth-20
15.5
PEL-ALC IDA-30-70
Isodeceth-30 18
PEL-ALC LA-23
Laureth-23
16.9
PEL-ALC LA-7-90
Laureth-7
12.1
PEL-ALC OD-20
Octyldodeceth-20 14
These are a few other mild alkoxylates made by Elé.
You get the idea that pretty much any alcohol can be ethoxylated
A few of our products… are diluted with water to help keep them a fluid liquid at room temperature. The second number, indicates the present concentration. Fore example “-90” means 90%.

15. PEL-SULF PEG-12D (Disodium PEG-12 Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate)
Features/Benefits
Anionic
Extremely mild (most mild anionic)
Reduces irritation of other anionic surfactants (e.g. SLS, SLES)
Low odor (lower than most competitors)
Good foaming
Provides light conditioning
Preservative free
PEL-SULF PEG-12D is the most mild anionic surfactant on the market. Sulfosuccinates are one of the mildest types of anionic and the 12 moles EO/PEG further reduces the potential irritation.
It also can reduce the overall formula irritation when using other anionics.
As Elé manufactures the polyether precursor, we have better control over the process and controlling odor. Many companies have to buy the polyether.
The silicone PEG also provides conditioning.
Due to its inherently low water activity (low propensity to grow bugs) it is does not require any preservative.

16. PEL-SULF PEG-12D INCI: Disodium PEG-12 Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate
The hydrophobic tail in this case is a linear dimethicone chain rather than a fatty (long chain) alkyl group.
The polar head group consists of the nonionic PEG, which has been further modified with the anionic sulfosuccinate group seen here on the lower left.
In this case, the molecule has a comb-like structure and actually contains three sulfosuccinate groups on average.

17. PEL-SULF PEG-12D (Disodium PEG-12 Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate)
Irritation vs. other Anionics
This chart shows relative skin irritation (yellow bars) and eye irritation (green bars) at 15% active ingredient at a pH 7.
PEL-SULF PEG-12D, circled on the left, is extremely mild compared to other anionic surfactants and even other sulfosuccinates

18. PEL-SULF PEG-12D (Disodium PEG-12 Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate)
Formulation Guidelines
Add to water phase at < 55⁰C
Often used as the primary surfactant in anti-acne formulations and other formulas where extreme mildness is needed such as facial cleansers and baby shampoos
Blend with SLES or other anionics to reduce irritation without major decrease in foam.
Reduces viscosity response
Adding at <55⁰C/131⁰F is recommended for all sulfosuccinates so the ester groups do not hydrolyze.
For the same reason, it should not be used in formulas with very high or low pH (<4.5 or >8).
In anti acne formulas it is often used at up to 30%.
In some formulas the viscosity response may be slightly depressed compared to other sulfosuccinates.

19. Other Mild Anionics Product INCI Description/Benefits PEL-SULF L
Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate
PEG-free, soft paste, useful in skin cleansers
PEL-SULF LE
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
High foaming, available with a variety of preservative systems
PEL-SULF CP
Disodium Cocamido MIPA Sulfosuccinate
High foaming, PEG-free, provides thickening with salt
PEL-PHOS SG
PPG-5 Ceteth-10 Phosphate
Provides conditioning, emulsification, thickening
Here is a sampling of other mild anionics manufactured by Elé. All but the last one are sulfosuccinate. Again, sulfosuccinates are one of the mildest types of anionic surfactant.
The last product listed, PEL-PHOS SG, is a phosphate ester. While phosphate esters are not normally considered mild, the addition of PO to the PEL-PHOS SG greatly reduces the irritation profile.

20. PEL-QUAT SL-5 INCI Name: Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Linoleammonium Chloride
Structure:
The cationic ammonium (N+) ion is shielded by the surrounding oxygen containing PEG and hydroxyl groups, thereby reducing the irritation profile.

21. PEL-QUAT SL-5 (Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Linoleammonium Chloride)
Features/Benefits
Cationic
Lubricious conditioning agent
Substantive to hair & skin
Provides very good wet comb properties to both shampoos and conditioners
Compatible with anionics
Applications
Bath & shower products
Conditioners
Shampoos
Styling products
Antibacterial hand soaps
Skin and hair are negatively charged, so the cationic charge of PEL-QUAT SL-5 makes it substantive to skin and hair.
It is particularly useful for detangling formulas or for treating damaged hair.
While mainly used in hair care products, it is also used in many antibacterial hand soaps.

22. PEL-QUAT SL-5 (Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Linoleammonium Chloride)
Irritation vs. other Cationics
This chart shows relative skin irritation (yellow bars) and eye irritation (green bars) at 3% active ingredient at a pH 7
PEL-QUAT SL-5, circled on the left, is extremely mild compared to other cationic surfactants
The product to the far left is another Elé cationic surfactant, PEL-SIL ISML.

23. PEL-QUAT SL-5 (Dihydroxypropyl PEG-5 Linoleammonium Chloride)
Formulation Guidelines
Add to water phase
Use level 1 – 3%
Especially useful in conditioners for damaged hair and detangling formulas
Use at relatively low levels (1-3%).
Add to water phase.
Stable at typical formula manufacturing temperatures (up to 80⁰C/176⁰F) and pH ranges (3.5 – 9.5)

24. Other Mild Cationics Product INCI Description/Benefits PEL-INE ISML
Isostearamidopropyl Morpholine Lactate
Conditioning agent which easily rinses from hair, preventing build-up.
PEL-SIL Q-80
Quaternium-80 (and) Propylene Glycol
Quaternary organosilicone that provides superior conditioning to hair and skin formulations.
PEL-SIL Q-80S
Quaternium-80 (and) Propanediol
Similar to Q-80 with PG replaced with corn based propanediol.
We offer a few mild cationic surfactants.
PEL-INE ISML is a very mild amine salt used mainly in conditioners. It is compatible with anionics and provides easy rinse-off.
We offer several cationic silicones, including quaternium-80, and amodimethicone .

25. PEL-AMPH ALP INCI Name: Arginine Lauraminopropionate Structure:
NEW patent pending amphoteric.
Contains 10% Arginine
Arginine is counter ion to amphoteric molecule ‘lauraminopropionate’
Arginine is 10% and acts as the counter ion to lauraminopropionate

26. PEL-AMPH ALP (Arginine Lauraminopropionate)
Properties
25°C
Clear
Gardner Color
3 Max
Odor
Characteristic
Solids %,
29.0 – 31.0
pH, as is
9.0 – 10.0
Specific 25°C
1.03
Sold as 30% solution
pH is left high which makes it self preserving (naturally when used in a formula the pH will be lower)
No preservative required

27. PEL-AMPH ALP (Arginine Lauraminopropionate)
Features/Benefits
Amphoteric
Chloride free
Compatible with wide variety of personal care ingredients
Free of Prop-65 listed chemicals
Excellent regulatory profile
Conditioning
Arginine benefits:
Excellent wetting
Moisture retention
Good foam generation
Improved barrier capacity of outermost skin layer
Very mild
Promotes healing
Readily biodegradable
Plant derived (86% Renewable Carbon Content)
EO/PO free
By combining the low irritation potential of an amphoteric surfactant with the soothing and conditioning properties of arginine, an exceptionally mild surfactant is created.
Its benefits include ….(see slide)
Free of claims…(see slide)
The product is about 10% arginine, which provides moisture retention, improves the barrier capacity of skin and is said to promote healing. (we don’t make that a claim)

28. PEL-AMPH ALP (Arginine Lauraminopropionate)
Features/Benefits
PEL-AMPH ALP
Amphoteric
Yes
Highly compatible with other ingredients
Excellent wetting
Good foam generation
Very Mild
Biodegradable
Plant derived (86% Renewable Carbon Content)
Excellent regulatory profile
Free of: EO/PO, chloride, sulfates, all Prop 65 chemicals
Arginine Benefits: moisture retention , improved barrier capacity, reported healing claims

29. PEL-AMPH ALP (Arginine Lauraminopropionate)
Irritation vs. other Amphoterics
Compared to other amphoteric surfactants at 10% active solutions and pH 7, PEL-AMPH ALP is seen to be very mild both skin and eyes – comparable to imidazoline derived amphopropionates (such as 2CSF-CG on far left) and 2C (middle).
Betaines, in comparison, are primary eye irritants at this concentration.

30. PEL-AMPH ALP (Arginine Lauraminopropionate)
Blender Foam Test
Foam Volume
Surfactant solutions were prepared at 10 ml in deionized water at 25°C. 100 mL of each solution
was placed in an Osterizer and agitated at high speed for 10 seconds.
Initial foam volumes and the level of the foam-water interfaces at 5 minutes were recorded.
The initial foam height produced by ALP was comparable to or better than other “natural” surfactants and nearly as good as cocamidopropyl betaine.
Drainage
Drainage is a measure of foam stability and density.
The number is the location of the foam/liquid interface after 5 minutes.
The lower the number the better.
Here, ALP performed equivalently or better than other tested surfactants.

31. PEL-AMPH ALP (Arginine Lauraminopropionate)
Draves Wetting
Draves Wetting Test
Measures how quickly a surfactant solution ‘wets’ a cotton skein, causing it to sink. Wetting effects how well a surfactant will displace oil from surfaces, how well of a dispersant it will be, and the spreading of formulations.
PEL-AMPH ALP, on the far right is seen to be a superior wetting agent.

32. Excellent Regulatory Profile
Listed on most national inventories

33. PEL-AMPH ALP (Arginine Lauraminopropionate)
Formulation Guidelines
General
Use as secondary surfactant in mild formulations
Add to water phase
Thickening
Like other propionates, does not thicken in response to salt addition
Use polymeric thickening agent(s) such as xanthan gum etc.
Alternatively, combine with sulfate/sulfonate, and amide to thicken by salt addition
PEL-AMPH ALP can be used much the same as other amphoteric surfactants to formulate mild foaming products. It leaves a smooth, soft feel to skin and hair.
Add to water phase with other surfactants.
Like other propionates, it does not thicken in response to salt addition.
It may be thickened using polymeric thickening systems such as cationic guar, xanthan gum, carbomer, etc.
Alternatively, it may be thickened in combination with an anionic surfactant, such as a sulfate or sulfonate, along with an alkanolamide with salt addition.
In combination with an olefin sulfonate and an amphopropionate or amphoacetate, it may be thicken simply by reducing the pH (typically to 5 – 6).

34. PEL-AMPH ALP (Arginine Lauraminopropionate)
Formulation Guidelines (con’t)
Compatible with:
Stability
Anionic surfactants
Best at pH > 5
Cationic surfactants
Protect from freezing
Nonionic surfactants
Store < 30°C
Amphoteric surfactants
Polymeric thickeners/conditioners
Incompatible with:
Oxidizing agents
PEL-AMPH ALP is compatible with most other personal care ingredients.
Avoid using it in the presence of oxidizing agents such as peroxides.
Repeated, or prolonged freezing may cause a precipitate to form.
It may be heated (up to 80⁰C/176⁰F) for limited periods. Prolonged heating will result in darkening.

35. PEL-AMPH ALP Foaming Facial Cleanser
Ingredient
wt%
Function
Water
63.2
Carrier
PEL-AMPH HPC-32
(Sodium Cocoamphodiacetate) 17
Surfactant
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 6
Secondary Surfactant
PEL-AMPH ALP
(Arginine Lauraminopropionate) 12
PEL-SIL Q-80
(Quaternium-80 & Propylene Glycol)
0.5
Conditioner
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Citric Acid
.80
pH Adjuster
Procedure:
Add Water into a vessel with moderate speed mixing while heating to 500C.
While heating, add the ingredients one by one with moderate mixing until each addition is homogeneous. Mix for a minimum of 30 minutes.
Begin cooling to 450C and add preservative & citric acid. Mix for an additional 10 minutes.
Results:
Appearance: Clear
pH: 6.56
Viscosity: Less than 500 cps
Mild conditioning sulfate-free foaming facial cleanser.
Abundant, very stable foam with moisturizing properties which leaves a smooth after- feel

36. PEL-AMPH ALP Clear Conditioning Shampoo
Ingredient
wt%
Function
Water
66.25
Carrier
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 9
Secondary Surfactant
PEL-AMPH ALP
(Arginine Lauraminopropionate) 11
Surfactant
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate (40%) 4
PEL-AMID CAEE
(Coconut Oil Aminoethoxyethanol Amides) 3
Thickener/ Foam Stabilizer
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate 6
Preservative
q.s.
Citric Acid
0.25
pH Adjuster
Procedure:
Add Water into a vessel with moderate speed mixing while heating to 500C.
While heating, add the ingredients of one by one with moderate mixing until each addition is homogeneous. Mix for a minimum of 30 minutes.
Begin cooling to 450C and add phase C ingredients. Mix for an additional 10 minutes.
Results:
Appearance: Clear
pH: 6.1
Viscosity: 5,400 cps
Another sulfate-free formula, this time a conditioning shampoo.
In this case, the conditioning is provided solely by PEL-AMPH ALP.

37. Other Mild Amphoterics
Product
INCI
Description/Benefits
PEL-AMPH 2C
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
Very mild, non-defatting, often used as surfactants in pre-moistened wipes, baby shampoos
PEL-AMPH 2CSF-CG
Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate
Extremely mild. Often used in neutralizing shampoos. Salt-free and methanol-free.
PEL-AMPH HPC-32
Sodium Cocoamphodiacetate
Mild, low-irritating, good foaming, non-defatting for baby shampoos and skin cleaners, etc.
PEL-AMPH HPL-28
Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
Provides a dense lather and cleans without defatting the skin
All are imidazoline derived.
All are mild, PEL-AMPH 2CSF-CG is the mildest
PEL-AMPH HPL-28 is the lightest in color
All in stock and 1 drum MOQ

38. Summary Surfactants vary widely in their irritation potential
Irritation Profile: Nonionic < Amphoteric < Anionic / Cationic
However: there are mild choices in each category
Amphopropionates<Amphoacetates<Betaines/Hydroxysultaines
Sulfosuccinates<Carboxylates<Isethionates<Taurates<Sulfates
Tertiary Amine salts<Quaternaries<Benzyl Chloride Quats
More EO/PO = milder (all classes of surfactants)
Careful surfactant choice allows mild formulations without compromising performance

39. Thank you!