1. Draping, Shampooing, and Scalp Massage
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2. UNDERSTANDING SHAMPOOING
Purpose
To cleanse the hair and scalp
Definition
To subject the hair and scalp to cleaning and massaging with a cleansing agent

3. SHAMPOO SELECTION Hair Type Dry, oily, normal Hair Condition
Overprocessed; chemically treated; damaged
Home Maintenance
Inappropriate products used at home can diminish the quality of the salon service

4. THE pH SCALE Potential hydrogen in a solution pH levels Acid—0 to 6.9
Alkaline—7.1 to 14
The higher the pH rating, the harsher the shampoo

5. CHEMISTRY OF WATER
Purification—fresh water from lakes and streams must be purified for domestic use.
Soft water—rain water or chemically softened water. It contains small amounts of minerals and will produce lots of lather.
Hard water—contains minerals that lessen the ability of shampoo to lather.

6. CHEMISTRY OF SHAMPOOS Water—the main ingredient in all shampoos
Surfactant Molecule
Hydrophilic end
Lipophilic end

7. Hydrophilic Is the “head” of the shampoo molecule
Attaches to water molecules
Causes debris to roll off

8. Lipophilic Is the “tail” of the shampoo molecule
Is attracted to oil and dirt
Causes oil and dirt to roll up into little balls that can be lifted off by a water rinse

9. TYPES OF SHAMPOO Acid-balanced shampoo (4.5 to 5.5)
Conditioning or moisturizing shampoo
Medicated shampoo
Clarifying shampoo
Balancing shampoo
Dry or powder shampoo
Color-enhancing shampoo
Shampoo for wigs and hairpieces

10. CONDITIONERS
Chemical agents that are applied to the hair to deposit protein and moisture
Reconstructor Types
Rinse-through
Treatment or repair
Leave-in
Formulation
Silicone and moisture- binding humectants
Emollients
Synthetic polymers
Proteins

11. HUMECTANTS Are contained in conditioners
Are substances that absorb moisture
Help to retain moisture
Penetrate the cortical layer of the hair shaft

12. CONDITIONERS Buildup not good Conditioning effects Product Types
Smooth the cuticle
Penetrate the cortex
Product Types
Instant conditioners
Moisturizers
Protein conditioners
Deep conditioning treatments
Other conditioning agents
Spray-on thermal protectors
Scalp conditioners

13. BRUSHING THE HAIR General Rules Benefits
Brush as part of every shampoo.
Do not brush before chemical service.
Do not brush if scalp is irritated.
Do not brush the scalp.
Never use comb to loosen scales from the scalp.
Benefits
Stimulates blood circulation
Removes dust, dirt, and product buildup from the hair
Adds shine

14. BRUSHING THE HAIR Make center part from front to nape.
Section half an inch off center to the crown of head.
Hold strand of hair in nondominant hand between thumb and fingers.
With dominant hand, lay brush with bristles close to scalp.
Rotate brush from scalp to ends; repeat 3 times.
Part hair half an inch from first parting; continue brushing until entire head has been brushed.

15. SCALP MASSAGE
Two basic requisites for a healthy scalp are cleanliness and stimulation.
Give massage to stimulate the scalp.
Give massage with all scalp treatments.
Give massage with continuous, even motion.
Massage is most effective in a series of treatments.
Thorough knowledge of the muscles and nerve points of the scalp and neck is necessary for the stylist.

16. SCALP MANIPULATION Relaxing movement Sliding movement
Sliding and rotating movement
Forehead movement
Scalp movement
Hairline movement
Front scalp movement
Back scalp movement
Ear-to-ear movement
Back movement
Shoulder movement
Spine movement

17. SHAMPOOING Implements Needed Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair Towels
Shampoo cape
Shampoo
Conditioner
Comb and hairbrush
Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair
Use mild shampoo
Use conditioner

18. APPLYING DRY SHAMPOOS Seat client comfortably at station.
Drape for chemical service.
Follow product directions.
Apply powder directly onto hair from scalp to ends and brush through.

19. SHAMPOOING CLIENTS WITH SPECIAL NEEDS
Clients with disabilities or who are wheelchair-bound will usually tell you how they prefer to be shampooed.
Some clients in wheelchairs will allow you to shampoo their hair while they remain seated in their wheelchairs, facing the shampoo bowl and bending forward.
Always ask the clients their preferences and keep their comfort and safety a priority.

20. SCALP TREATMENTS Keep scalp and hair in a clean and healthy condition
Should recommend only after a hair and scalp examination or analysis
Can be given before or after the shampoo, depending on which treatment is given

21. GENERAL HAIR AND SCALP TREATMENTS
Normal hair
Dry hair
Oily hair
Dandruff treatment

22. SUMMARY Cleanliness is the key to attractive hair.
Proper analysis of hair and scalp is essential.
Product knowledge is important.
Shampooing is the stylist’s opportunity to put the client at ease and prepare her for the service she is about to receive.
Scalp treatments are useful in keeping the hair and scalp healthy.