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The Movement of Ocean Water
Currents
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movement of ocean water that follows a regular pattern
Ocean Current movement of ocean water that follows a regular pattern influenced by: weather Earth’s rotation position of continents
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horizontal movement of ocean water caused by wind
Surface current horizontal movement of ocean water caused by wind occurs at or near ocean’s surface controlled by: global winds Coriolis effect continental deflections
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Global Winds winds that blow across Earth’s surface that create surface currents different winds cause currents to flow in different directions
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Coriolis Effect Earth’s rotation causes wind and surface currents to move in a curved path
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Continental Deflections
when surface currents meet continents, the currents deflect (change direction)
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Taking Temperatures warm-water currents begin near equator – carry warm water to other parts cold-water begins close to poles – carry cold water to other parts
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Deep Currents stream-like movement of ocean water far below surface not controlled by wind forms where water density increases density affected by: salinity and temp
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Increasing Density Increasing Salinity (Freezing) cold air chills water, increases density, cold water sinks when water freezes, salt gets squeezed out at surface and enters liquid below increases density
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Increasing Salinity (Evaporation)
warm climates, water evaporates, leaves salt behind increases density, sinks to form deep current
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Currents and Climate
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Surface Currents Warm-Water
Currents that create warm climates in coastal areas that would otherwise be much cooler
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Cold-Water Keep coastal areas cooler than inland climate
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Upwelling Movement of deep, cold, and mineral-rich water to surface of the ocean Nutrients support the growth of plankton and animals that eat plankton
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Change in water temperature in the Pacific Ocean
El Niño Effects of El Niño Change in water temperature in the Pacific Ocean Produces a warm current Alters weather patterns Causes disasters (flash floods, mudslides, droughts) Prevents upwelling off the coast of South America
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Important due to its effects on land and on organisms
Studying El Niño La Niña Important due to its effects on land and on organisms Scientists use a network of buoys along the equator that record data Cooler than normal temperatures in the Pacific ocean La Niña El Niño
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Waves
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Anatomy of a Wave Wave Crest Trough Made up of crests and troughs
Highest point of a wave Lowest point of a wave
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Wave Formation and Movement
Wave Movement Most are formed when the wind blows and transfer its energy to the water As wind blows, water particles move up and down in circular motion The water itself stays behind
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Specifics of Wave Movement
Wave speed Wave Period All waves travel at different speeds Use an equation to calculate wave speed Time between the passage of two wave crests (or troughs) at a fixed point w a v e p r i o d (s) l n g t h (m) = s (m/s)
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Types of Waves Deep-water waves Shallow-water waves
Move in water deeper than one half their wave-length When deep-water waves interact with ocean floor
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Shore Currents Undertow When waves crash on the beach head on
The water moved from this wave flows back into the ocean under the new incoming waves Movement of water from a shore current moving back into the ocean Pulls objects with the current
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Longshore Currents Travel near or parallel to the shore line Form when waves hit the shore at an angle Transport most of the sediment in beach environments
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Break in the open ocean before reaching the shore
Open-ocean waves Whitecaps Form in the open ocean 2 Types Whitecaps Swells White, foaming waves Very steep crests Break in the open ocean before reaching the shore
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Swells Tsunami Rolling waves that move steadily across the ocean Form when a large volume of ocean water is suddenly moved up or down Caused by underwater earthquakes
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Storm Surges Local rises in sea level near the shore that are caused by strong winds from a storm The storm blows water into a big pile under the storm As the storm moves onto shore, so does the giant mass of water beneath it
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Tides
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The Lure of the Moon Tide Daily changes in the level of ocean water
How often a tide occurs and the difference in tide levels depend on the position of the moon as it travels around Earth
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High Tides Low Tides When part of the ocean is facing the moon, the water there and on the opposite side of Earth bulges towards the moon Water is taken from these areas to form high tides
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Timing of tides Occur at different times each day because Earth rotates quicker than the moon revolves around Earth
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Tidal Variations The Sun Tidal Range Also effects tides
Combination of sun and moon position in relation to Earth causes tidal ranges Differences in ocean levels at high and low tides
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Spring Tide Neap Tide Largest daily tidal range Occur during full and new moons Sun, Moon, and Earth are aligned Smallest daily tidal range Occur during 1st and 3rd quarters of the moon Sun, Moon, and Earth form a 90° angle
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Tidal Bore Occurs in coastal areas with narrow inlets Body of water rushes up through a narrow bay, estuary, or river channel during the rise of a high tide Causes a very sudden tidal rise
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What is Climate?
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Weather Climate daily conditions of the atmosphere temp, wind, precipitation, humidity vary day to day average weather conditions in an area over time
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Latitude Solar Energy distance north of south from equator energy from the sun hits most directly at the equator; most indirectly at the poles
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Seasons seasons change due to the tilt of the Earth’s axis tilt affects how much solar energy an area receives near equator and poles have little to no seasonal change
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Prevailing Winds Mountains winds that blow mainly from one direction affects precipitation in areas affects both temperature and precipitation of areas on either side of mountain
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Large Bodies of water Ocean Currents affects an area’s climate water absorbs and releases heat slower than land helps to moderate temp of land around it surface currents carry warm or cool water to coastal areas
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large zone characterized by climate, types of plants and animals
Climate Zones Biome three major zones: tropical temperate polar large zone characterized by climate, types of plants and animals
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Changes in Climate Ice Age Volcanic Eruptions
long period of climate cooling ice covered large areas of land creates shield or dust and ash that block’s sun’s rays and cools climate
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Asteroid Impact Sun’s Cycle acts like a volcano…throws debris (dust) into air that blocks sun = cools climate sun follows 11-year cycle has periods of high and low radiation
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Global Warming Greenhouse Effect gradual increase in average global temp natural process warming of planet due to gases in atmosphere essential for maintaining temp on surface
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Greenhouse Effect human activities increase gases gases trap and hold more heat result: warmer planet and climate changes carbon dioxide: main contributor to climate change major greenhouse gases: carbon dioxide, water vapor, methane, nitrous oxide
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Consequences of global warming
positive impacts longer growing seasons more comfortable climates in cold areas fewer cold-related deaths
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negative impacts rising sea levels (due to melting ice) causing loss of land more severe weather (hurricanes, tornados, floods, droughts) species extinction; species unable to adapt to climate changes
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