1. Chapter 7 - FASHION Designing Fashion The Design Process
Making Fashion

2. Chapter Objectives
Describe the three divisions of apparel manufacturers
Explain the roles and types of fashion designers.
Identify the elements and principles of design used to create fashion.
Identify the steps in the garment production process.
Compare haute-couture production and prêt-à-porter production.
Explain how women’s and men’s apparel are sized.

3. Apparel Company Divisions
The three divisions of apparel manufacturers are:
Design Division:
Buy Fabrics/
Design a line
Production Division:
Produce the
garments
Sales Division:
Sell completed
apparel to stores
All divisions work together to make it happen!
Section 7.1

4. The Role of the Fashion Designer
Designers must anticipate what their target market will buy
Select the appropriate fabrics that will sell.
Produce finished garments or accessories at prices that customers will pay.
Create original designs and choose appropriate fabrics
Supervise assistants who carry out their ideas.
May also spend time on administrative tasks.
Section 7.1

5. The Role of the Fashion Designer
Types of Designers
Self-Employed Designers
Design-House Designers
Designers for Manufacturers
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6. Elements of Design The elements of design are: Color Silhouette Line
Fabric
Texture
The elements must be chosen according to principles.
The elements must be combined effectively to achieve harmony.
Section 7.1

7. Elements of Design
Research has shown that customers respond to color before any other design element.
Texture is determined by fibers, yarns, and the method of construction.
color a visual characteristic, representing hue and tone, that is one of the most important elements of fashion design
texture a characteristic of the surface of a material in terms of how it feels and looks
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8. Elements of Design
The next considerations are the silhouette and line.
silhouette the overall form, or outline of a garment
line a distinct elongated mark that directs the eye movement when viewing the garment
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9. Principles of Design
Besides using the basic elements of design, a skilled designer also applies the principles of design.
principles of design the standards for creating good design that include proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony
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10. Principles of Design Proportion Balance Rhythm Emphasis Harmony
The relationship of all the spaces of the garment.
Balance
The relationship (either symmetrical or asymmetrical) of one side of the garment to the other.
Rhythm
A sense of movement through the repetition of lines, shapes, and colors.
Emphasis
The center of interest, or the focal point, of the garment.
Harmony
Harmony is achieved when the designer has applied all of the principles of design to a fashion design.
Section 7.1 10

11. Steps of the Design Process
Design Process and Schedules:
Marketing period is 6 months before customers will purchase…
Designers have it ready 2-3 months before that!
Steps of the Design Process
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Basic Decisions
Design Concept and Samples
Sales Research Analysis
Step 4
Step 5
Step 6
Design Presentation
Purchase Orders
Production
Section 7.1 11

12. Design Process and Schedules
Designers use computer-aided design (CAD) systems as a tool, like a paintbrush, to produce creations.
computer-aided design (CAD) computer programs that perform many design functions to create design
CAD allows for quick production through technology and machines.
Section 7.1

13. The Garment Production Process
The fashion industry uses computer-aided design (CAD) systems to complete patternmaking.
patternmaking the process of transforming the design into the appropriate pieces needed to produce an apparel item
Computer systems also facilitate grading.
grading the technical process of increasing or decreasing the sizes of a pattern to correspond to a garment size
Section 7.2

14. The Garment Production Process
Costing is the process of calculating the production costs of a garment in order to set a wholesale price.
wholesale the price that retail buyers pay for goods they purchase from manufacturers
The wholesale price includes:
Cost of labor
Materials
Markup
Section 7.2

15. The Garment Production Process
Garments are mass-produced and cut and sewn in an assembly-line manner.
computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) a system that automatically moves the garment parts through each phase of the cutting-and-sewing process
Many manufacturers use computer-aided manufacturing (CAM).
Section 7.2

16. The Garment Production Process
After a garment is constructed:
An inspector checks it for flaws.
Hangtags attached to garments provide information such as fabric content and care instructions.
Labels attached to garments identify the name of the manufacturer or the line of clothing.
Section 7.2

17. The Garment Production Process
Haute couture is the French term for high-fashion custom made designer clothing.
prêt-á-porter French term for designer ready-to-wear clothing
Prêt-á porter is less expensive than haute couture, but it generates more income for couture fashion houses.
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18. Size Classifications
The different groupings of a sizing system in retail stores are known as size classifications.
sizing system a set of sizes based on common assumptions and methods of development
Vanity sizing gives the customer the illusion of being able to fit into a smaller size.
Standard measurements vary from one manufacturer to another…
Section 7.2

19. Women’s Size System- based on shape of figure
Misses
Women’s/ Large
Juniors
Petites
Styling
Conservative adaptation of previous season’s styles
Same as misses with some junior styles
Young, trendy, figure-conscious styles
Same as misses’ styles
Age
25 and up
18 and up
15 to 25
Size Range
Even sizes 0-20
Even sizes W, 16-26WP or higher
Odd sizes 3-15
Petite 0-14
Figure
Fully developed; over 5’4”
Larger proportioned
Not fully developed
Fully developed; under 5’4”
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20. Size Classifications- Men’s sizing
More standard than women’s sizing.
Men’s slacks, dress shirts, and tailored apparel
are sized with a dual-sizing system,
or a combination of two measurements.
Example: pants – 30/32 (waist/length)
dress shirts – 16, 34/35 (neck/sleeve length)
Most men’s sports shirts and sweaters are offered in small, medium, large, and extra large.
Section 7.2

21. What are some roles of the fashion designer?
7.1
What are some roles of the fashion designer?
Anticipate what target market will buy, produce finished products at prices customers will pay, create original designs, select appropriate fabrics, supervise
What are the five basic principles of design?
Proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis and harmony
What are the three divisions of apparel manufacturing and what do they accomplish?
Design Division: Buy fabrics, design a line
Production Division: Produce the garments
Sales Division: Sell completed apparel to stores 1. 2. 3.
Quick Check Answers
Fashion designers anticipate what the target market will buy, and they produce finished garments or accessories at prices that customers will pay. They create original designs and select the appropriate fabrics.
proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony
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22. 7.2
What are the six key steps in the apparel production process? Basic decisions -> Design concepts and samples -> Sales research analysis -> Design presentation -> Purchase orders -> Production
What are the production differences between haute couture and prêt-á-porter?
Haute-couture garments are more precise, custom-made by hand (hand sewn) to fit the customer. Pret-a-Porter garments require very little hand sewing and are mass produced in ready-to-wear styles and sizes (not custom)
What is the difference between women’s and men’s sizing? Women’s clothing is based on shape of the figure and includes numbered sizes. Men’s sizing is more standard and uses a dual sizing system based on measurement numbers. 4. 5.
Quick Check Answers
(1) patternmaking, (2) making samples, (3) establishing costs, (4) order taking, (5) garment cutting and sewing, and (6) inspection and labeling
Haute-couture garments are custom-made by hand to fit the customer. Construction is more complex and precise. Prêt-á-porter garments require very little hand sewing.
Women’s sizing is based on shape of the figure and includes numbered sizes. Men’s sizing is more uniform and uses a dual system based on measurement numbers. 6.
Section 7.2