1. Community Cat Program Humane Society of Huron Valley’s
Trap-Neuter-Return(TNR) Program
Cheryl Szkutnicki
or (734)
Humane Society of Huron Valley

2. Community Cats
Feral Cats
Free Roaming Cats
Do not vocalize
Do not approach humans
May hiss/spit/growl
Appear well groomed
Do not eat until humans leave
Usually approach people and food
Vocalize (mostly)
Not suited for indoor lifestyle due to behavior or history
Community Cats are free roaming, feral, or semi-feral cats and may be social with their caregiver, but require an outdoor lifestyle. Community cats encompass both TNR program cats and Barn Adoption cats.
A stray cat is a domestic cat that has been abandoned or has strayed from home and become lost.
A stray cat is often vocal, sometimes talking insistently, and may look disheveled, as if un-used to dealing with conditions on the street.
Might have a collar on
A feral cat is born and raised outside with little or no human contact, overtime a stray can become feral, as contact with humans dwindles overtime.
Adult feral cats usually cannot be tamed and are most content living outside.

3. What is TNR Trap Neuter Return Cats are humanely trapped in live traps
Cats are sterilized, ear tipped for recognition, and vaccinated against Rabies Virus
Return
Cats are given sufficient time to rest post surgery and then returned to their original habitat
Volunteer colony caretakers continue to provide food and monitor health of colony
Trap-neuter-return, commonly known as TNR
Only method proven to be humane and effective at controlling feral cat population growth.
The goal of any community cat management program is to maximize the quality of life for the cats, to eliminate the existing colony over time, and to elevate the worth of community cats, and cats in general, through education and awareness

4. No Effective Alternatives
Trap & Kill Does Not Work!
Do Nothing Does Not Work!
The leading cause of cat death in shelters is euthanasia.
Education of Community
Education of Staff
Cats will continue to breed
Lack of food, cats start to become destructive
Cats and their offspring become very ill
Reasoning for doing Trap-Neuter-Return is that nothing else works! No other technique has been shown to have a realistic chance of long-term success.
We euthanized feral cats for decades and it made NO impact on population, shelters still continue to do this.
Socialization of feral cats beyond kitten hood is a long and difficult process
Trap and kill- Has been the predominant approach by animal control agencies in the U.S. for decades. Trapping feral cats, carting them off to a shelter and then euthanizing them may, in the short term, reduce the population in a given area. Temporary and eventually the cat population returns to its former level.
Stop feeding- don’t feed the cats and they’ll go away. Attempts to make feral cats go away by banning feeding usually result in suffering for the cats and increased conflict with feeders.
Altering the habitat to remove the food source is difficult to achieve as a practical matter. All it takes to create a source is an unsealed dumpster, open garbage cans or one person leaving out cans of food when they spot a cat. Trying to stop people from feeding is virtually impossible.
The problem is, unless there is another food source nearby, they won’t. Feral cats are extremely territorial. Rather than leaving, they tend to come closer, taking more risks , as they grow increasingly desperate to find something to eat.
In addition, a cat can go without food for several weeks and continue to reproduce.
What might have seemed like a simple solution ends up making the situation much worse.
Do nothing- If nothing is done, then the size of a feral cat colony will reach a natural ceiling, there will end up being more cats, than food or shelter available.
In sum, trying to simply remove feral cats from their territory – whether to euthanize, rescue, relocate to another site or place in a sanctuary – does not end up lowering the number of feral cats. In nature’s ongoing cycle, new cats replace the old ones and nothing much changes in terms of overpopulation and nuisance behavior. Leaving the cats where they are and neutering them through TNR is the only hope for improvement.

5. Population is larger than before
The Vacuum Effect
Alternatives are not true population control
Feral cats are killed or euthanized at shelter
Cats that were missed over breed
Neighborhood cats move in
Population is larger than before
Animal control or whoever traps some of the cats, takes them away, still leaving behind some. Existing cats have less competition for the food and shelter. Also breeding will continue, more cats will move in, cats are constantly being abandoned/dumped, they to will move in.
Altering the habitat to remove the food source is difficult to achieve as a practical matter. All it takes to create a source is an unsealed dumpster, open garbage cans or one person leaving out cans of food when they spot a cat. Trying to stop people from feeding is virtually impossible.

6. Relocating Hard to catch all of the cats Already aware of surroundings
Not 100% successful
Lot of people ask “ Can you relocate these cats?” Many people don’t realize you can’t simply let them go in a new place, and expect them to stick around.
Don’t have places to relocate them to, usually these cats are not very social , so a house setting would not work .
Feral/ unsocial cats do not do well in the shelter- Inhumane to keep them in small confined cage/danger to staff while cleaning.
Cats are very connected to their territory, they are familiar with their food source/shelters/resident wildlife/ dangers around them/streets.
If cats have been trapped before, it can be very difficult to catch them all again. If not sterilized , the left over cats continue to reproduce.
Nuisance-A lot of people you talk to, are not even aware of TNR yet, and don’t know there is another option besides removing. Letting them know once being fixed with a caretaker, will eliminate most of the problems they are having with the cats.
Moving- From the start ,always good to if you are able to get with a neighbor, someone who knows you are caring for them, to take over if you can’t anymore. Sometimes people want to take the cats with them, this to can be a long process, and not 100% Cats will try to get back to where they know, and in that process, can be hit by a car, unknown wildlife. Not saying can’t be done, keeping them confined to new place can be hard,
Relocation should be the last resort, try to resolve the problems that are forcing the cats out of their established home.

7. Advantages of TNR No kittens No odors Less Noise Rodent Control
Odor becomes much less noticeable. Unaltered males mark their territory by spraying urine tinged with testosterone, causing a particularly noxious odor. Neutering eliminates the testosterone and its foul odor. In addition, most altered male cats will mark less frequently or stop all together.
Noise is dramatically reduced. Most of the noise from an unmanaged feral colony comes from mating and fighting – behaviors which are greatly reduced by neutering.
Rodent control is maintained. Cats provide a natural form of rodent control, primarily as a consequence of their scent. Returning the cats allows this to continue.
A healthier and less visible colony. Neutering, regular food and adequate shelter greatly improve the colony’s health. In addition, neutered cats tend to roam much less and thereby become less visible.
The presence of a caretaker. With TNR, someone is there to take responsibility for the colony, watch over them and work out any problems with neighbors.
Prevents a new, unaltered colony from forming. Removing most or all of a colony leaves the territory vulnerable to re-colonization by new, unaltered cats and the resumption of the same problems as before. Neutering the colony and then leaving them in place breaks this cycle.

8. HSHV’s Policy Evolution
Like many shelters, we used to accept feral cats for euthanasia.
Created the TNR program in 2007.
In 2007 we accepted over 1,200 feral cats for euthanasia, in 2008 we accepted over 500, and in we accepted 2.
We no longer accept free roaming cats for euthanasia.
Since 2007 we have sterilized nearly 10,000 community cats!!
Properly implemented, TNR is not only about trapping the cats and getting them neutered. It’s also about creating a safe, healthy environment for them to live in. So practicing TNR also includes setting up feeding stations and good winter shelter, and building good relations with the community.

9. 5 Steps to TNR Build community relations Prepare for trapping Trap
Surgery
Recovery and release

10. The First Step
Build community Relations

11. Community Relations Importance of good relations
Facilitate the project
Educate the neighborhood
Helps provide long- term security for the cats
Most feral cat colonies are found within a community, not off by themselves in the woods.
Whether it’s a backyard, a parking lot, a barn or an alley behind an apartment building, fast food ,the cats have human neighbors.
Neighbors/workers need to be educated about your work ,and have their own concerns heard and taken into account.
A lot of these places, don’t even know there are cats . Have to be prepared for their reaction.
Facilitate- It will be much easier to trap if you have permission to enter someone’s property, than if you
trespass and try not to be spotted.
Feeding and care, too, is simpler and more reliable when you have the community’s support as opposed to hoping no one in authority cracks down on you or starts throwing away the food.
Releasing cats back onto property where
the residents know what you’re doing and approve of TNR is much safer for the cats than putting them back into an uncertain situation and hoping for the best.
By performing TNR, you’re helping to get a problem under control that effects everyone who lives or works at the colony’s location. In this respect, TNR is a community service. So let people know you’re helping them!
You may be surprised at how many welcome and appreciate your efforts. Before you can win over the neighborhood, you need to educate yourself about TNR and be able to speak persuasively about its many advantages.

12. Achieve Good Relations
Educate yourself on TNR
Gather information
Get to know your neighbors and who feeds the cats
Post flyers announcing the program and seeking help
Repeat the mantra: no kittens, no noise, less smell, rodent control
Educating yourself- Taking this class  many books about TNR, Alley cat allies has a lot of info on their sight.
Gather info-
Talk to store owners, local residents, the closest veterinarian, people you notice stopping and watching the cats ,anyone who might be connected with the cats at all.
The idea is to gather as much information as possible: How many cats are there? Who feeds them? When? How often? How did the situation start? Has anyone tried to do anything about it before? How do people feel about the cats – welcoming, hostile, indifferent?
If you come across someone friendly to your cause, try to get their contact information or give them yours – down the road you may need their help or they may have more information for you.
Stay alert for people who might help feed or trap, or who want to donate food, money or holding space.
During this “get acquainted” phase, explain to people what TNR is and let them know you are organizing a TNR project. Keep repeating the mantra, “No more kittens, no more noise, no more odor.” Refer those interested to resources where they can learn more about TNR, such as feral cat websites.
Post informational flyers -
A one page flyer describing TNR and how you propose to implement it in your neighborhood is another way to build support. Keep it simple and easy to read (don’t use small type) and list contact info. Post it on bulletin boards, permissible public areas, veterinarians’ offices and local animal shelters. .

13. Dealing With Hostility Towards Cats
Be understanding (neighbors are living with the noise and odor)
Never argue!
Be professional in your approach… “I understand your frustration…”
My neighbors (or the landlords) are complaining about the cats. What can I do? Ask what their specific complaints are and try to resolve them.
The most common complaints regarding stray/feral cats are that they are spraying, yowling, fighting, sick and injured, having more kittens or roaming the neighborhood.
Many of these are mating behaviors subside substantially when TNR and colony management are implemented.
There will be a lot of times you will have to deal with someone difficult,
The key is not to take it personally and be hostile in return, as difficult as that sounds. Instead, try to understand why someone might be frustrated and unhappy with the cats. Put yourself in the place of those complaining – if cats fighting woke you up every night at 2 a.m., if your garden had become the neighborhood litter box, you might be resentful, too. Especially if no one ever took your concerns seriously or ever offered a solution.
Don’t argue with those who voice these complaints, but listen carefully.
Openly sympathize with what they’ve had to deal with and explain how TNR will help and why trying to permanently remove the cats from the area will just end up with new cats and the same old problems.
Point out the benefit of the cats’ natural rodent control. Most people calm down and respond well when they see their side of the story is being heard. When they understand there’s a way to keep the cats and lose the problems, most are willing to give it a try.
There will be times when someone in a position of authority won’t agree to TNR no matter how well you perform your role as advocate. Don’t give up easily. Try to get others who are more “official” than you to speak to the person. If you still don’t get anywhere, keep the lines of communication open. Eventually, if other attempts at resolving the feral cat situation fail, the person or agency may become more open to trying TNR. You want to remain available to help in the event that happens.

14. Tips For Keeping Cats Out
Scents cats do not like
Lavender oil
Lemongrass oil
Eucalyptus oil
Mustard Seed oil
Citronella oil
Cayenne pepper
Coffee grounds
Cat Stop motion-detected; sends forced air when cats walk by
Show deterrent sheet, pass them out .

15. Tips For Keeping Cats Out, Cont.
Cover up cat urine smells with white vinegar or with non- toxic products available at pet supply stores
Textural deterrents: rough rocks, chicken wire
Once you are certain the cats are not inside, physically block or seal the location the cats are entering with chicken wire or lattice
Be sure to search for kittens before confirming the cats have left

16. How To Deal With Poisoning Threats
Check local laws
Talk to neighbors
Post flyers
Contact HSHV’s
Cruelty/Rescue Dept.
Occasionally when a feral cat colony is unmanaged and in crisis, a threat to poison is made. In many jurisdictions, poisoning is animal cruelty and a crime, even a felony with a possible prison sentence. Check your state’s laws by calling your local SPCA or animal control agency. Find out if poisoning is an offense and what the penalties are.
People who threaten or actually attempt to poison are usually ignorant of the fact that this is a serious offense..
If cats are being poisoned, you can make flyers, pass them out around/put up around the neighborhood
It’s extremely unlikely anyone will ever be arrested, let alone convicted, as a result of information gained from the flyer..
But the flyer nonetheless has two important effects –
1. It alerts the would-be poisoner that he would be committing a crime.
2. It also lets them know others are watching. Not many of this type of person will care enough about getting rid of the cats to risk going to jail.
The Poison Poster should only be used if there is a reasonable suspicion of possible poisoning. It should not be used simply because you’re afraid someone is so angry, he might try it. You want something concrete actual threat or the mysterious death of a cat. Otherwise, you could be needlessly planting the idea.

17. The Second Step
Prepare For Trapping

18. Different Types Of Trappings
Private Trapping
Caregiver rents trap or use their own, catch cats, bring in on their own
Volunteer Trapping
Volunteers are scheduled to assist with private trappings of cats
Coordinator Trapping
Community Cat Coordinator (with caretaker and/or volunteer assistance) performs large scale trappings
Private  attend workshop (this class!) for $15  rent traps  10% off all trappings and surgery

19. Preparations For Trapping
Establish A Feeding Pattern
To facilitate the trapping, train the cats to eat at the same time and place
Count the cats
Need an accurate count to know how many traps are needed and when the trapping is finished!
Determine a holding space
Some arrangements can be made for trained volunteers to drop off in TNR room off-hours (usually Sunday evening)
1) Establish a feeding pattern
At least two weeks before the trapping, put out the cats’ food at the same time and place on a daily basis. Cats are very habitual creatures and will quickly learn the routine. If you can’t do this everyday, stick to the pattern as closely as you can.
Remove uneaten food within 30 mins, that will make for a more strict feeding pattern, also helps with attracting wildlife, and insects. If for some reason you have to leave food out all the time, perhaps because otherwise some cats won’t get to eat, then establish a pattern of arriving at the site at the same time and place everyday and putting out something tasty like a can of tuna.
In choosing the time of day for the feeding, anticipate making it easier for yourself when the time comes to trap. Pick a time when the site will be quiet and less trafficked. Also take into account that when the trapping takes place, you’ll need time to set up the equipment, transport the cats to their holding space, provide them with food and water, etc.
2) Count and assess the cats
If necessary, take notes or photos to log and record the cats and help you tell them apart. Knowing the correct number, or at least getting close, is important for scheduling spay/neuter surgery and borrowing the right amount of equipment .
Don’t take anyone’s word for how many are there. Most people are not used to seeing more than a few cats at a time. When they see ten cats at once, they’re liable to believe there are far more.
In addition to counting the cats in the colony, assess if any are adoptable, either because they’re kittens young enough to be quickly socialized or abandoned adults who are still friendly. Whenever good foster resources exist, these cats should be removed from the colony.

20. Spay/Neuter Info All cats must be brought in humane traps and covered
Clinic drop off times are Monday- Thursday from 8am- 7pm
No appointment needed but notify Coordinator ahead of time if bringing in several cats
Trap rentals are $75 ($65 refundable)
Sterilization and vaccination fee
$20 per cat for Washtenaw County residents
$75 per cat for out of county

21. Transportation
Traps are large, so take into consideration how you will transport cats to and from HSHV Clinic
TNR

22. Have more traps than cats!!
Secure Equipment
Have more traps than cats!!
♦ Traps (2 or 3 more than the number of cats)
♦ Trap divider
♦ Bait (two kinds)
♦ Can opener
♦ Forks or spoons
♦ Small paper or plastic plates
♦ Cardboard extenders for the trip plates of the traps (if needed)
♦ Sheets (one per trap)

23. The Third Step
Trap

24. Trapping Process Build good community relations
Establish a feeding pattern
Obtain equipment
Plan surgery date
HSHV TNR drop off M-Th 8am-7pm
Withhold food hours before
Bait with tuna and set traps, cover with sheet/towel
WAIT
Transport trapped cats for s/n
WAIT for all cats

25. How To Use The Trap Setting a Trap Back Door Handle Trip Plate Hook
BAIT!
Fold Door Open
CAT ENTER HERE
Trip Plate
Setting a Trap

26. So You Trapped A Cat?
If the cat becomes frantic, cover and move the trap out of sight of the other cats (dark, quiet place)
If the cat is calm, leave the trap alone while trapping is underway
Place a new trap where the old trap was
Hot spots

27. Hard To Catch Cats
Drop Trap

28. Drop Trap

29. How To Handle Escape & Injuries
Never attempt to recapture a cat with your bare hands
Consult a medical doctor for bites and scratches
Bacteria

30. Note About Wildlife
If you catch a raccoon, opossum, or other wild animal, release the animal immediately
Point the back sliding door in the direction you want the animal to go, lift door, and stand back
Never leave traps unattended overnight, this could prevent catching wildlife .

31. Bringing the Cats to HSHV
TNR drop off is Monday through Thursday between 8am and 7pm
No appointment
Call me if bringing in many cats
Cats should be left in your vehicle (weather pending)
Check in at clinic front desk
Fill out appropriate paperwork
Get ID card for each cat
Cat should be taken to TNR door where a clinic staff member will meet you
Plan to pick cats up the day after they are sterilized
We will not notify you when they are ready for pick up
Keep your ID card after sterilization
Will show gender of animal and have any additional notes about care, etc
Cats should not be at HSHV longer than 3 days

32. The Fourth Step
Surgery

33. Sterilization Female cats Male cats
Spay
Neuter
Female cats
More invasive so penicillin injection administered to help with healing
Male cats
Less invasive
Both Males and Females get Metacam injection to help with pain.

34. Surgery Process
Cat is brought to TNR room and identified with a cage card and surgery log number
Surgery tech administers sedation medication to cat while in trap
Once cat has been sedated, it is prepped for surgery
Vaccinations are administered – always given rabies vaccine
Cat’s ear is tipped
Cat’s stomach is shaved and cleaned for surgery
Cat is sterilized and returned back to its trap

35. Ear Tip- Less STRESS

36. The Fifth Step
Recovery and Release

37. Recovery Cats do fine with recovering in their trap.
Do NOT attempt to transfer any feral cat from a trap into a carrier
An absorbent pad is placed under the trap
Given food and water once fully awake
As always, be careful not to get bitten or scratched.
The cat should be left covered, quiet place
Any time you are in the TNR room, please respect the dim light and make as little noise as possible. Free roaming cats stress easily.

38. Release All cats will be held overnight for recovery
If awake and alert, cats found lactating will be immediately released
Plan on picking cat(s) up the following day, post surgery

39. I’m Outta HERE!

40. Long Term Care
Food, Shelter & Weather

41. Food Feeding station Location Types of food The best you can afford
Should be completely open on at least one side to prevent dominant cats from excluding others
Location
Ideal spot has low visibility and good access for cats
Types of food
The best you can afford
Location- Some places in the public , you may need to hide more. Tree’s/ have station colors blend in /spray paint.
Less traffic areas, off ground if possible.
Food resources:
Ask pet stores/grocery stores if they would donate broken bags , or dented cans , almost expired food- Vet offices.
See about having a food drive maybe at work/church/schools, also give you an opportunity to educate people at work about what you are doing.

42. Shelter
A properly outfitted shelter offers warmth in winter and protection from a cat's worst enemy: rain
Several do it yourself options – rubbermaid container with insulation or simple wooden box shelter
If possible it Is best to cut out 2 holes , so cats have an escape route.
Try to keep off direct ground, use pallets/bricks.
Some shelters may not be big enough to do 2 holes.
Keeping them off the ground , helps with flooding/high snow.
Have a shelter building party.
Maybe your kids are boy/girl scouts , good project for them . All kinds of different shelters that can be built.
Change out straw as needed, at least twice a year.

43. Winter Tips Not Worth Their Salt
Rubbermaid Bins Line the bins with Styrofoam, cut out a doorway . Instant shelter.
That's Heavy, Man Use sheets of plywood to weigh down lightweight shelters made from plastic, cardboard, Styrofoam, etc.
Cuddling Kitties Cats rely on body heat to stay warm, so keep your shelters small for colonies with just a few cats. For more populated colonies, go with multiple shelters of a larger size.
Warming Trends Because it resists moisture, straw is the top choice for insulation and bedding in your feral cat shelters. Avoid blankets, which absorb moisture like a sponge.
Not Worth Their Salt
Use caution with salt, it’s designed to melt snow near your colonies. It can be toxic when licked off paws or ingested from melting puddles, and can hurt a cat's paw pads.
Sugar is sweet
Sprinkle a small amount of sugar in your cat’s water bowl to lower the freezing temp
Fill 'Er Up Note that extreme cold weather can increase a cat's energy and nutritional needs. Don't forget extra water to prevent dehydration.
Water Freezes fast, change often, use deeper bowls, no metal/stainless steel.
Water:
Use heated bowls, if outlet near $20-30 Amazon.
Keep water in sun, use dark colored bowls
Fill bowls with warm water, refill as much as possible through out the day
Use deep/wide bowls

44. A Note About Wildlife
To deter wildlife from cat feeding stations, only feed at set times of the day and remove cat food at other times. For the health and safety of wild animals, it’s best not to habituate them to cat food handouts
Feeding in the morning only can help deter wildlife as well, as they usually feed at night

45. HSHV does not test for FIV/FeLV in community cats.
Humans cannot catch or transmit these viruses. Not all cats that become infected will develop disease.
FIV- Feline Immunodeficiency Virus
FeLV- Feline Leukemia Virus
Progresses very slowly, gradually affecting a cat's immune system
It is passed through blood transfusions and through serious, penetrating bite wounds - mainly by stray, intact tom cats
Once cat is fixed, little to no chance of transfer
Causes anemia and lymphoma
Can also suppress the cat’s immune system, affecting his/her ability to fight off bacteria, viruses and fungi that contribute to other serious health problems.
It is passed through urine, feces, milk from mother, bite wounds, and very large quantities of saliva.
The percentage of feral cats infected with either FeLV or FIV is very low:  3 – 7% are infected with FeLV and about 2 – 5% are infected with FIV.  These percentages are about the same as the percentages for indoor cats
-Because testing produces a significant rate of false positives, healthy cats are frequently misdiagnosed and killed.
-Virus may lay latent for years , if cat is really infected, allowing the cat to live a long live.
-Cats testing positive , should be retested at least 28 after the cat's last possible exposure to the virus
-If they come up positive- not social/healthy, we do not euthanzie. Also nowhere for them to go.
-Spaying or neutering cats inhibits the spread of the viruses.
Since spaying and neutering reduces or eliminates the primary modes of transmission, such as fighting and breeding, infected cats pose less risk to other cats
The cost of testing outweighs its benefit and diverts resources from spay/neuter.
Increasing the number of animals who are spayed and neutered is the single most effective way to help control the feline overpopulation crisis and improve the health and living conditions of stray and feral cats.
HSHV does not test for FIV/FeLV in community cats.

46. What About Kittens or Social Cats?
Socialize until ready adoption , up to 8 weeks, age/resources
Should stay with their mother until at least 4 weeks of age
Try handling and working with kittens as early as 10 days
Abandoned Domesticated Cats
Behaviorally assessed in TNR room, if space is available, accepted for intake and set up for adoption
How to Determine Kitten Age  - Under one week: (3-8 oz) Eyes are shut, ears are folded down, and kittens are unable to walk. They can purr and make tiny noises. The umbilical cord may still be visible.  - One-two weeks: (8-11 oz) Eyes start to open (they are blue) and focus. Ears begin to open and movement is improved to crawling, snuggling, and kneading.  - Three weeks: ( oz) Eyes fully open and ears are open and standing up. The kitten will start to respond to noises and movement. The first wobbly steps are taken and baby teeth start to come in.  - Four-five weeks: ( oz) Running, playing, digging, and pouncing occur often. Kittens will start to wean and will be able to lap up formula, eat soft food, and use the litter box by themselves. Eyes have fully changed from blue to their adult color.  - Eight weeks: (2 lbs) Kittens look like little versions of full grown cats. 
Social cats- First thing notice
Front of trap, rubbing on cage, trying to seek attention- some of the same things you may see when telling the difference between a stray cat/feral.
Spring/Summer – Over 100 cats/kittens for adoption, in foster average 200 , most waiting to come back for adoption. Have to be pretty particular on acessements, as we have so many friendly cats awaiting adoption.
During slower times winter, have space to work longer with some of them.

47. More about Kittens
Kittens should stay will mom until weaned, around 6 weeks.
6-8 weeks is best time to try to socialize , if seen at that time.
Longer outside , the more acclimated to outdoors.
This fits in with when you first start seeing them outside, lot of times moms will hide kittens , and then they start coming around in that 6-8 week time.
If they are acting social, they may have a chance of going up for adoption.
People see kittens 4-5 mos old, usually too late.

48. Fun Facts…

49. Unsocial cats in the shelter (2015)
No barns available for placement?
Placing feral cats with caregivers who have healthy colonies.
No barns available for placement?

51. HSHV Happenings!

52. 2016 PetSmart Charities “Community Catch” blitz: April 2016
Sterilize 200 community cats through HSHV’s TNR program for FREE- All areas
Met our goal with 211 in 2015

53. We WANT You!

54. Ways To Help Become a TNR volunteer trapper Hang flyers
Take care of a colony
TALK to people about TNR
Refer people to us

55. Questions?