1. FASH 15 textiles
aesthetic finishes

2. aesthetic finishes
aesthetic finishes change the appearance and/or hand of fabrics
applied to a fabric with express purpose of altering some visual, textural, hand or other aesthetic dimension of the fabric—sometimes AKA surface design
additive finishes—finishing chemical added to fabric to produce texture, luster, embossed designs and abrasion resistance
subtractive finishes—something removed from fabric during finishing

3. aesthetic finishes—luster
luster finishes produce a change in a fabric’s light reflectance
glazed
a friction calendar produces a highly glazed surface
chintz
polished cotton

4. aesthetic finishes—luster
cire
similar to a glazed finish, except metal roll is hot to produce greater luster

5. aesthetic finishes—luster
plasticized finish
very thin layer of polymer added to dyed fabric
moire
have wood grain or watermarked appearance; used for somewhat formal looks in apparel & interiors

6. aesthetic finishes—luster
schreiner
have softer luster than most other luster finishes—uses schreiner calendar which has a metal roller engraved with fine diagonal line per inch

7. aesthetic finishes—luster
embossed
created using an embossing calendar that produces either flat or raised designs on fabric

8. aesthetic finishes—drape
drape finishes change the way a fabric falls or hangs over a 3D shape
transparent & crisp
produced by treatment with sulfuric acid in cotton fabrics; subtractive—called parchmentizing
lawn parchmentized to create organdy

9. aesthetic finishes—drape
burned-out
produced by printing a chemical solvent on a blend fabric made of different generic fibers—one fiber dissolves, leaving sheer areas

10. aesthetic finishes—drape
sizing
fabric immersed in mixture containing waxes, oils, glycerine and softeners to add or control fabric body
weighting
metallic salt or plant-based compounds used to add weight and body to apparel fabric

11. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
embossed
some have 3D raised or designed pattern

12. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
pleated
made using a variation of embossing—
pattern paper (hand)—produces wider variety of pleated designs
machine process—blades pleat fabric as inserted between two heated rolls

13. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
puckered surface
created by partially dissolving the surface of a nylon or polyester fabric

14. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
plisse
converted from either lawn or print-cloth gray goods by printing an alkali, sodium hydroxide, onto the apparel fabric in the form of stripes or designs

15. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
flocked
fine natural or synthetic surface fiber is applied after a base fabric has been produced—can be localized or all over

16. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
embroidered
decorated by hand or by machine with a surface-applied thread

17. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
expanded foam
colored compound printed on fabric expands during processing to give 3D texture to fabric
sheared
pile or napped fabric in which the surface has been cut to remove loose fiber or yarn ends, knots or similar irregularities or surface flaws

18. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
brushed
after shearing, fabric is usually brushed to clean off fiber ends

19. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
napped
layer of fiber ends raised from the ground weave of a the fabric by mechanical brushing action

20. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
crepeing
special compacting process to produce a fabric with a soft hand—can create an all over texture or localized plisse effect

21. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
fulled
improves appearance, hand, thickness, softness, body & cover of wool fabrics for apparel & upholstery

22. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
beetled
fabric revolves slowly over wooden drum and is pounded with wooden hammer until yarn is flattened into an oval, not round, cross section

23. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
coronized
process for heat setting, dyeing and finishing glass fiber in one continuous operation
emerizing, sueding or sanding
process used on fine silk-like fabrics; fabrics moved over two or more rollers with fine emery paper on the first roll and coarser paper on the second

24. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
abrasive, chemical or enzyme washes
abrasive wash—pumice or other abrasive material saturated with a chemical and tumbled with fabric or garment
chemical wash—chemicals partially destroy fiber & create irregularities; include alkalis, oxidizing agents, bleaches, etc…
enzyme wash—similar to chemical wash except uses cellulase (enzyme) to dissolve part of cellulose material

25. aesthetic finishes—texture & hand
silk boil-off
removes sericin and creates a looser, more mobile fabric structure
caustic treatment
creates synthetic apparel fabric with hand and texture like silk—caustic soda dissolves 5-18% of fabric
hand builders
compounds such as silicone softeners and cellulase enzyme that soften fabric hand

26. participation activity: aesthetic finish identification
…using your complete textile sample workbook, identify a fabric in the collection for each of the finishes discussed in class today
…this can also help you to complete your textile sample book 