1. Resilient Floor Care
A Systems Approach

2. What Is Resilient Flooring?
Definition of Resilient: Bouncing or springing back into shape, position, etc. after being stretched, bent or, especially, compressed.
Vinyl Composition Tile (VCT)
Linoleum
Sheet Vinyl
Rubber
Cork
Synthetic Sports Floors

3. Non-Resilient – Resilient Flooring
Radial rubber & Cork flooring
Too resilient. So much flex, acrylic finishes tend to shatter
Need to use a true carnauba wax system
Synthetic (non-wood) sports flooring
Need to use a finish system that allows for more traction and durability than regular floor finishes

4. Selecting A Cost-Effective Finish System
Use a seal?
Use a finish?
Use a seal/finish?
How many coats?
How often?
Burnish?
Do we have a machine?
What speed?
Which pad?
Use a restorer?
Spray on?
Mop on?
How often?
How does it wear?
How high gloss?
How often is there time for: burnishing? Refinishing?
Using a restorer?

5. Trilogy® Floor Care System
Ultra high speed burnishing
Over 1500 rpm
Cord-electric to 2000 rpm
Battery and propane to 3000 rpm
High speed burnishing
rpm
Standard speed
rpm
Products to match your equipment
Choose the program that fits your facility

6. Systems & Programs
Systems generally refer to “sets” of products designed to work together
Programs generally refer to cleaning programs
All cleaning programs have three steps:
Daily maintenance – dust mopping & damp mopping
Interim maintenance – burnishing; scrub & recoat
Renovation - stripping
The better the daily maintenance is performed the longer the interval between interim procedures
The better the daily and interim maintenance is performed, the longer between renovations

7. Hillyard’s Philosophy
Cost effective programs revolve around using time-efficient procedures, not cheap products
Labor makes up 85-90% of M&O budget
Saving 10% on products saves 1% of budget
Saving 10% on labor saves 8 ½ -9% of budget
Begin all cleaning programs with renovation – “start clean to stay clean”
Perform daily maintenance tasks in such a way as to minimize interim procedures
Perform interim procedures in such a way as to minimize renovative procedures
Renovative procedures use the most labor
So, the resilient floor program begins with…

8. Stripping The Floor Is stripping always necessary? NO! Only when:
Changing coating systems
Changing suppliers
Removing heavy buildup
Removing factory coatings on new floors

9. Stripping The Floor Apply stripper Let stand recommended time
Agitate edges & hard to reach areas w/ swivel pad holder
Scrub with single disc floor machine (buffer)
Use a wet-vac to pick up solution
Neutralize the floor (stripper)
The stripper that removed finish will inhibit the new finish bonding to the floor
Rinse at least twice with clear water
Check the floor for residue

10. Stripping Don’ts Stripping is a process, not an event
Everyone must work together
Don’t drag cords through solution and onto the clean floor
Don’t roll wheels through stripping solution and onto the clean floor

11. Stripping Don’ts
Don’t walk through stripping solution and onto the clean floor
Don’t allow stripping solution to dry back on the floor, or on baseboards, doors, walls, cabinets, etc.
Don’t allow stripper or neutralizer to dwell on the floor too long – this can damage the tile

12. Stripping Don’ts
Don’t allow stripping solution to run under doors or to splash onto an area that will not be stripped
Don’t splash stripping solution onto adjacent carpeting
Don’t use an auto-scrubber to apply stripping solution – it will destroy pump seals

13. Stripping Don’ts
Don’t use an auto-scrubber to pick-up stripping solution – and if you do…
Don’t store equipment (including mop buckets and wringers) without cleaning
Clean using clean stripping solution
Clean the entire machine – squeegees, recovery hoses, recovery tanks, underside of scrub decks

14. Stripping Do’s Protect areas that won’t be stripped
Make dams under doors or in doorways
Lay towels or tarps on adjacent carpeting
Roll equipment over towels before transporting out of the area to protect adjacent flooring
Wipe your feet before walking onto adjacent flooring
Pay attention to details
Badly stripped edges and corners make the whole floor look bad

15. Stripping Do’s
Coat vertical surfaces (baseboards, cabinet fronts, doors etc.) with Super Hil-Tone before stripping
Will help shed the stripping solution
Inhibits finish dry-back
Minimizes clean-up with stripping solution
Remember to clean the treated surfaces later

16. Rinsing the Floor
After neutralizing, give the floor two additional clear water rinses
Don’t forget the baseboards and corners!
Cove base cement may dissolve & ooze back on to the floor - it will look like yellowed finish!
When the floor is dry, wipe your hand over the surface. If it comes up with a residue, give it another rinse. If there is no residue, the floor is ready for sealing.

17. Sealing The Floor Apply same as finish
Clean, damp synthetic finish mop, flat finish mop, or finish applicator (not dripping)
Cut in perimeter first – leave an exit by the door
Apply in continuous passes all the way across the floor
Apply every other coat in the opposite direction

18. Why Seal? Seal protects the flooring
Seals are “generally” less expensive than finishes (depends on the finish)
Seal has larger molecules, so less “soaks into” the floor
Seal provides a base for finish
You use less finish
Follow recommended coverage rates
Think of plywood – several thin coats makes a very strong, durable product

19. Finishing The Floor
Apply floor finish in the same way you applied the seal
Allow adequate drying time between coats
If too many coats applied too quickly or too thickly
Delamination can occur
Plasticizer migration can occur
Will cure softer, and be less durable

20. Floor Finish 99.9% of today’s floor finishes contain no wax
Today, we finish floors, we don’t wax them.
How many coats?
Rule of thumb: divide the % solids of the finish into 100. The answer is the number of coats to get optimum appearance.
How thick?
Rule of thumb: thinner is better. Use middle of mfg.’s recommended application rate
If 1000 – 1500 sq. ft./gal. per coat, aim for 1250 sq. Ft.

21. Applying Finish
Stay away from the baseboards

22. Applying Seals & Finishes
Buffers can’t scrub the last 2 in. of the floor to the edge.
Over time, finish can build up – unless the edges are hand scraped every time the floor is scrubbed, a time-consuming and labor-intensive process.

23. Applying Seals & Finishes
Apply the first coat as close as possible without touching the baseboard
Apply each successive coat two inches inside the previous coat will feather the finish to the edge, preventing buildup and requiring less hand-work when scrubbing or stripping.
People don’t walk right next to the wall, and in rooms there is usually furniture against the walls.
In halls and large open areas with no furniture, the first coat touching the baseboard without slopping up on it to prevent a “dry” gap is acceptable.

24. Gloss Restoration Mop-on restorers Mop-on cleaner/restorers
Mop on after cleaning (mopping or auto-scrubbing) the floor, let dry then burnish
Mop-on cleaner/restorers
Use in an auto-scrubber to clean and apply restorer in one step before burnishing
No auto-scrubber?
Use to mop the floor clean and apply restorer in one step before burnishing

25. Standard Speed, Spray Buffing
Gloss Restoration
Spray buffing – regular speed
On a clean floor, apply a mist of spray-on restorer to a small area (5’x5’)
Immediately, with a standard 175 rpm floor machine with a white pad, go over the sprayed area, back and forth until it dries and polishes
Useful for blending out traffic lanes
For general gloss restoration
Turn and change pads frequently
Dust mop when finished
Time consuming – not the process of first choice
If you only have a 175 rpm machine
Standard Speed, Spray Buffing
Spray buffing with a standard speed floor machine will restore gloss, remove scuff marks and extend the life of the finish. Let newly coated floors cure a week before spray buffing and dust mop and damp mop the floor first. For best results, use a restorer designed for standard speed spray buffing. Begin by placing a red pad under a 175 rpm single disc floor machine.
Next, lightly mist a small section of the floor with the restorer and immediately buff the sprayed section in a back and forth motion. Make certain all black marks and scuffs are removed and traffic lanes are blended into the surrounding area. After the entire floor has been spray buffed, dust mop the floor with a treated dust mop.
Note: Spray Buffing does not add a layer of finish to the floor, rather the spray buffing solution acts as a semi-solvent to blend out shallow scuffs. It is polishing the surface by partially removing the damaged top coat of finish.

26. Gloss Restoration Spray buffing – high & ultra-high speed
On a clean floor, apply a mist of spray-on restorer to a small area (5’x5’)
Immediately, with a burnisher with a beige polythermal pad, go over the sprayed area, until it dries and polishes.
For general gloss restoration
Turn and change pads frequently
Dust mop when finished
Time consuming – not the process of first choice

27. Gloss Restoration Dry burnishing – high and ultra-high speed only
Use beige polythermal pad
Most effective with “softer” finishes
General rule of thumb – the higher the solids content, the “harder” the finish
Generally speaking, “harder” finishes do not respond to dry burnishing as well as “softer” finishes
Generally speaking, “softer” finishes don’t powder as much as “harder finishes
Dust mop when finished

28. Daily Maintenance Dust mopping with a treated dust mop
Removes grit
Grit is as damaging as sandpaper shoe soles
Damages finish
Damages tile
Removes and controls dust
Dust hides the shine
Minimizes hand dusting
Decreases A/C filter changes (indoor air quality)
First line of defense against finish wear

29. Daily Maintenance Regular damp mopping Auto-scrubbing
Gets what the dust mop leaves
Rinse mop often
Change water often
Auto-scrubbing
Faster – more efficient
Decreases labor costs
Increases productivity
Produces better results – cleaner floors
Reduces drying time

30. Interim Maintenance “Scrub and re-coat” uses a neutral cleaner
Buffer or auto-scrubber
Red, blue or black pad
Quickly remove only top layer of dirty finish
Pick up solution with a wet-vac
Rinse until clean (wipe hand on floor)
Let dry
Reapply finish
2 to 4 coats - no more – only replace what you remove

31. Scrubbing vs. Stripping
ISSA standard times per task
Stripping a floor
75 minutes / 1000 sq.ft.
Scrubbing a floor
45 minutes / 1000 sq. ft.
Stripping means resealing and refinishing
3 seal + 3 finish = six coats applying & drying time
Scrubbing means replacing only the finish you scrubbed off
2 or 3 coats applying & drying time

32. Scrubbing vs. Stripping
Scrubbing floors saves
Time
Money (labor is 85-90% of M&O budget)
Product
Less seal
Less finish
Less neutralizer

33. Controlling Buildup
Many facilities are on a five year stripping rotation (or longer)
They strip only 20% (or less) of floors annually
To prevent buildup when scrubbing, replace only what is removed
Start with 3 seal, 3 finish coats after stripping
Assume one coat wears off and one is scrubbed off – reapply only two coats
If 3 are reapplied the floor will have 4 coats. The next time one wears off and one is scrubbed off and you add three you’ll have 5 and so on. Over a period of time you’ll create a heavy buildup.

34. Review Start clean to stay clean.
Focus on prevention through diligence in daily maintenance procedures.
Use interim procedures regularly to prevent floors from getting out of control.
Use renovative procedures only as necessary.

35. Are there any Questions?
Resilient Floor Care
Are there any
Questions?

36. Quiz (T/F) neutralizing after stripping isn’t really necessary.
Stripping is necessary when changing , or , when finishing , and if there’s a
(T/F) Apply finish the same way you mop a floor.
Seal is used to create a for finish.
The final step before applying the first seal coat is to the floor for .

37. Quiz The most important part of a resilient floor care program is .
(T/F) The more finish coats applied, the longer you can go between stripping or scrubbing.
(T/F) After scrubbing a floor, apply one more coat of Finish than you removed for the best appearance.
(T/F) Damp mopping with a cleaner/ restorer is an efficient way to clean and apply a restorer in one step.
(T/F) Dust mopping is the first line of defense against finish wear.

38. Answers (F) neutralizing after stripping isn’t really necessary.
Stripping is necessary when changing coating systems, or suppliers , when finishing new floors, and if there’s a heavy buildup .
(F) Apply finish the same way you mop a floor.
Seal is used to create a base for finish.
The final step before applying the first seal coat is to check the floor for residue .

39. Answers
The most important part of a resilient floor care program is each step is equally important – a floor care program means skipping any step will affect the total performance of the coating system .
(F) The more finish coats applied, the longer you can go between stripping or scrubbing.
(F) After scrubbing a floor, apply one more coat of finish than you removed for the best appearance.
(T) Damp mopping with a cleaner/ restorer is an efficient way to clean and apply a restorer in one step.
(T) Dust mopping is the first line of defense against finish wear.

40. Thank you for your participation.
Resilient Floor Care
Thank you for your participation.