1. Copy all: Introduction to The developing process:
darkroom:
A darkroom is a room that can be made completely dark to allow the processing of light sensitive photographic material without ruining it.
Chemicals we use (in this order): 1) Developer: 2-3 minute (agitate!) 2) stop bath: 30 seconds (agitate!) 3) fixer: 2-3 minutes (agitate!) 4) Water: 5 minutes (water should be running)
SAFELIGHT: an amber color light used to light up the work area.
Papers are not sensitive to amber-colored light and can be safely used without exposing the paper to any effects of light at all.
The developer turns exposed silver halide crystals in the emulsion to darkness, only those crystals changed by the action of light. The light sensitive silver layer is called emulsion.

2. ALL ABOUT THE STOP BATH Copy the underlined:
The purpose of the stop bath is to halt the development of the paper by neutralizing it.
Without the stop you could use water, but the development process continues (though possibly at a very low level) for an indefinite and uncontrolled period of time during the rinsing. Stop bath accounts for the characteristic vinegar-like odor of the traditional darkroom. In its concentrated form it can cause irritation but is harmless when diluted to a working solution.
Stop bath eventually becomes used up when many prints have been rinsed in it… We use indicator stop bath -- it changes color to indicate (show) when the stop bath is exhausted and no longer effective. It is yellow when it is “good” or fresh, and changes to purple when it has been used up! If it is purple, it is time to change it!

3. UNEXPOSED SILVER. USE FOR 2.5 MINUTES (AGITATE!)
copy the Capitalized info FIXER (FIXATIVE)
IS A TYPE OF SALT,
THE 3RD CHEMICAL
IN PROCESSING,
AND RINSES OFF
UNEXPOSED SILVER. USE FOR 2.5 MINUTES (AGITATE!)
You may need to help mix chemicals one day, This is the package, it is a powder, and mixed in a gallon pitcher using one packet with one gallon of water, stir well, then pour it into the proper container.

4. Tuesday, 10-9 Notes & Chemical Demonstration today Warm Up: (to be collected) “We keep chemicals in orangey- brown bottles that you see on the shelf to your right OF THIS BOARD. Discuss why you might think we store chemicals in those particular bottles:”

5. Tuesday, Objective: SWBAT determine whether or not their Pin-hole camera is light tight. Warm Up: (name & PER, to be collected) 1) “If no light enters the Pin-hole camera, and light sensitive paper were put inside, would the paper change in any way?” 2) “What would happen to the paper if too much light got in?”

6. Some good answers from the class:
Once mixed
write the DATE
and What it is
on tape
And put that in the rectangle
holds one gallon perfectly Keeps out light Keeps out Air easy to pour keeps it identified and organized Use a funnel to pour the liquid into it

7. Copy the top, read the bottom and SUMMARIZE it… THE FIXER
(also called FIXATIVE)
You must let the print wash in it 2-1/2 minutes, and must keep the liquid moving (agitate) constantly. If someone else is stirring the liquid, that is fine.
Photographic fixer is a mix of chemicals used in the final step in the photographic processing of film or paper. The fixer stabilizes the image, removing the unexposed silver halide remaining on the photographic film or photographic paper, leaving behind the reduced metallic silver that forms the image. By fixation, the film or paper is insensitive to further action by light. Without fixing, the remaining silver halide would darken and cause fogging of the image. Fixation is commonly achieved by treating the film or paper with a solution of thiosulfate salt.

8. Copy underlined, and Summarize the smaller type: Water is the last step and an important step even though it is just water. You must leave your photo paper in gently RUNNING water tray for 5 minutes.
If you skip the water, or don’t rinse long enough, the picture will have traces of chemicals on it and stains will appear. Anything it touches will be contaminated including your hands. Then when you touch fresh photo paper that too will be contaminated and be ruined.

9. How to Dry the Print Have you ever seen a SQUEEGEE?
with a Squeegee
Directions:
Hold the print with a thumbnail in a corner on a clean surface, wipe the print with the squeegee diagonally starting at the corner with your thumb. Once on the back and once on the front is fine. More than that risks scratching the print. Do not rub with paper towels (that would scratch the print and leave lint on the surface). It will be dry enough to take with you, but not fully dry—I suggest you keep the print between paper towel until dry, but do not let two damp prints touch each other and dry touching- or else they will meld together and you will never get them apart.
Have you
ever seen a
SQUEEGEE?
Draw this
SQUEEGEE:
Label the Squeegee

10. Testing my Pinhole Camera
Objective: Student will be able to figure out whether or not their Pinhole Camera is light tight
Warm up; go get your Pinhole camera. At the top of a Notebook page, write the date and :
Testing my Pinhole Camera
TODAY:
Draw your pinhole camera, label back of camera, aperture, light sensitive paper and roll of tape
1) Tape your Pinhole Camera “test” or “tests “to the paper once you have made them
2) For each test, write next to it the amount of time you let the Pinhole camera take a picture
3) For each test, write the kind of light used, for instance this room has some objects set up with 5 clamp on lights
4) figure out whether the light was enough or not enough for that test, and write that beneath the test
5) You will repeat the test with time or light adjusted to get a better result

11. A notebook page should be titled “Testing my Pinhole Camera”
Today’s Objective: Student will be able to figure out whether or not their Pinhole Camera is working and light tight
A notebook page should be titled “Testing my Pinhole Camera”
That page should include ALL and will be checked during a NOTE BOOK check:
1)A Drawing your pinhole camera, label back of camera, aperture, light sensitive paper and roll of tape that holds the paper in place
2) Tape your Pinhole Camera “test” or “tests “to the page once you have made them
3) For each test, write next to it the amount of time you let the Pinhole camera take a picture
4) For each test, write the kind of light used (how many lamps lit the subject)
5) figure out whether the light was enough or not enough for that test, and write that beneath the test
6) You will repeat the test with time or light adjusted to get a better result
7) Answer “how do you know that the camera is working and light tight by the test photo you have taken?”

12. While you are waiting for your Pinhole Camera to take a picture you can copy today’s NOTES, copy the objective and notes below, then draw a value scale in your notebook (you may need pencil): “After testing my camera and creating a Pinhole Camera Test Page, my goal is to now capture a photo with a full value scale.” A full value scale means that the photo has pure black somewhere in it, pure white, and all the grays in between. “Artists practice drawing a value scale when they start out, we will draw and shade one in too:” (Label your value scale as below)
Copy: Friday’s Objective: Students will be able to figure out how much light is needed to obtain a Full Value scale in their Photograph.
VALUE SCALE
Pure white
True Black