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“Waves & Tides” 16.2
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How heavy is water? How would it feel if all this water fell on you?
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Movement of Ocean Water
Moving water is Powerful! Waves Energy moving between ocean and atmosphere. Transfer energy over great distances! Tides Changes in sea level
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Review: What causes waves?
Wind Friction! Coriolis Effect Density changes Q: What caused these waves? Must add energy to create waves.
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Wave Characteristics Wavelength (L) Crest Height (H) Trough
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Wave “Period” Describe the period of these waves.
Time for 1 wavelength to pass a fixed point. At the beach you see a small child getting sucked out into the ocean by a strong current. You swim to save the child but are pushed back by wave after wave that comes crashing toward the shore; one after the other. Describe the period of these waves.
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Longest Wavelength? Longest Period?
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Height, Wavelength & Period…
…determined by: Wind Speed Time wind has blown Fetch distance wind blows over water
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Tides. Changes in Sea L____ Cause = gravity from Moon (& Sun!)
EVEL “Tidal Range”
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Spring Tide = Moon & Sun together = High
Neap = Opposites = Low
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Tidal Patterns Diurnal Semidiurnal Mixed 1 high, 1 low 2 H, 2 L
Unequal Highs & Lows
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