1. Crampons
Ben Ingram

2. Overview Introduction Crampon Types Fitting Crampons Using Crampons
Caveats

3. Introduction What are crampons? – Metal spike that attach to your feet
What are they good for? – Give traction on ice or steep snow

4. Crampon Types: Number of Points
Instep crampons (about six points on instep) - Improve traction, but not good for mountaineering
10 point crampons (no front points) – better traction, but still not good for steep climbs
12 point crampons (front points) – the standard for mountaineering

5. Crampon Types: Flexibility
Hinged:
More comfortable
Tiring to front point
Use with any boot
Rigid:
Less comfortable
Less tiring to front point
Can only be used with rigid boots

6. Crampon Types: Point Orientation
Horizontal Front Points:
Better in snow and soft ice
Less balling
Best for general mountaineering
Vertical Front Points:
Better in hard ice
Dangerous balling

7. Crampon Types: Attachment
Straps:
Work with any boot
Harder to put on in cold
Step-in:
Only work with welted boots
Easy to put on

8. Crampon Types: Summary
With mouse boots, use hinged, horizontal point, strap-on crampons like the black crampons with yellow straps or the “old school” crampons
With Sorels, only the “old school” crampons fit

9. Fitting Crampons
Fit is the extremely important. Crampons that fall off cause accidents and slow down the group.
Adjust crampons at home
Adjust length and instep width so that crampon holds boot without straps
Strapping pattern
Test crampon fit
Practice putting on at home, so can put on with gloves or in cold

10. Crampon Use Two approaches: Get as many points as possible into ground
Front pointing

11. Caveats They’re sharp and put holes in clothing and packs
Balling causes many accidents
Don’t glissade in crampons!