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Glacier Travel Rob Jagnow.

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Presentation on theme: "Glacier Travel Rob Jagnow."— Presentation transcript:

1 Glacier Travel Rob Jagnow

2

3 What makes glacier travel different from above-treeline travel?…

4 Crevasses!

5

6 Anatomy of a Glacier Moat Bergschrund Firn line Lateral Moraine
Medial Moraine Terminus Terminal moraine

7 Gear Everything for above treeline travel, plus… Rope Harness Helmet
Prusiks Anchors Slings Belay device Carabiners Wands

8 Roping Up

9 Route Finding Avoid Likely Crevasse Locations
Avoid Potential Pendulum Falls (keep the rope perpendicular to crevasses) Wand you way Probe camp area Belay climbers in an out of camp

10 Oops!

11 Rescue Options Self Rescue Team Rescue

12 Self Rescue Drop Backpack (2-to-1 advantage) Prusik up rope

13 Team Rescue Set anchor Self-belay to edge Check on climber Pad lip
Snow picket Fluke Deadman Bollard Self-belay to edge Check on climber Pad lip

14 Team Rescue Brute Force (Only with lots of haulers)
Single Pulley (2-to-1 advantage) Z-Pulley (3-to-1 advantage) Other systems (x-to-1 advantage)

15 Single Pulley

16 Z-Pulley

17

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20 End


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