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Glacier Travel Rob Jagnow
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What makes glacier travel different from above-treeline travel?…
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Crevasses!
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Anatomy of a Glacier Moat Bergschrund Firn line Lateral Moraine
Medial Moraine Terminus Terminal moraine
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Gear Everything for above treeline travel, plus… Rope Harness Helmet
Prusiks Anchors Slings Belay device Carabiners Wands
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Roping Up
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Route Finding Avoid Likely Crevasse Locations
Avoid Potential Pendulum Falls (keep the rope perpendicular to crevasses) Wand you way Probe camp area Belay climbers in an out of camp
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Oops!
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Rescue Options Self Rescue Team Rescue
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Self Rescue Drop Backpack (2-to-1 advantage) Prusik up rope
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Team Rescue Set anchor Self-belay to edge Check on climber Pad lip
Snow picket Fluke Deadman Bollard Self-belay to edge Check on climber Pad lip
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Team Rescue Brute Force (Only with lots of haulers)
Single Pulley (2-to-1 advantage) Z-Pulley (3-to-1 advantage) Other systems (x-to-1 advantage)
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Single Pulley
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Z-Pulley
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End
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