1. Level 3 Diploma in Make-up Artistry Client care and communication in beauty-related industries Apply make-up

3. What is a professional manner?
Be able to communicate and behave in a professional manner when dealing with clients
What is a professional manner?
Respect to clients and colleagues and be trustworthy
Good customer service skills
Appearance suitable for workplace – with good personal hygiene
Consult with clients in an effective and detailed way – give feedback
Be knowledgeable and able to explain treatments to clients
Adopt a duty of care to clients, protect client modesty and maintain confidentiality
Respect to clients/colleagues by demonstrating good communication skills. Good customer service skills are essential. Punctual and loyal to employer and client.
Appearance should be appropriate for the work environment, clean with professional uniform, with good personal hygiene and behaviour. Hair neatly tied back, good oral hygiene, nails – good condition, short and well-maintained.
Undertake the consultation process in an effective and detailed way – and explain the treatment/service clearly so the client understands the treatment in detail. If the consultation reveals health problems, to follow correct referral procedures.
Follow the code of practice/ethics for staff in the beauty therapy business and have full insurance – public and professional liability. All staff to demonstrate integrity. Avoid gossip/take a pride in work.
Duty of care to all clients, protect client modesty, and maintain confidentiality of all client information. Trust is vital.

4. Effective communication in the salon
What is effective communication? What is ineffective communication?
Do a spidergram – one for Effective and one for Ineffective
EFFECTIVE COMMUNICATION IN THE WORKPLACE
EFFECTIVE
Good body language Maintain eye contact
Clear speaking Use closed and open questioning
Appropriate content Appropriate facial expression
Appropriate tone/pace Appropriate language
Appropriate volume of voice Respect personal space
Clear explanation of treatment/service Be confident and enthusiastic when providing information
INEFFECTIVE
Poor body language Lack of eye contact
Shouting/very low voice Poor facial expression
Speaking disrespectfully/angrily Not explaining clearly
Using too complex/technical language Asking "closed“ questions

5. Adapt methods of communication
What methods of communication do you use to communicate with your client?
ADAPT METHODS OF COMMUNICATION TO SUIT DIFFERENT SITUATIONS AND CLIENT NEEDS
Communicate in different ways according to needs of your client: SEE BOTH PAGES
FACE TO FACE
Good verbal communication to give information and answer questions
Non-verbal methods – to give encouragement and/or convey empathy
Use “open” body language to appear less intimidating
Sign language for deaf clients
Listen to client
WRITTEN
Mail shots and advertising material
Promotional and advisory purposes
Use of braille leaflets for blind clients
Information needs to be recorded
TELEPHONE
To book and/or confirm appointments
To respond to requests for information on client services
The client does not have internet or mobile phone
 INTERNET
Use of websites and ICT to advertise services and treatments
to contact clients
Text messaging to contact clients
Instagram
Facebook

6. Maximise the client experience
Consult with client in a private, comfortable area, with no barriers between self and client
Make client at ease
Use positive body language
Use both verbal and non-verbal language
Demonstrate professionalism and integrity – knowledgeable, confident and enthusiastic
Use good listening skills
Record information accurately
Why do these factors maximise the client experience? Discuss each in turn - what’s the importance of each?

7. Suitable Consultation Techniques
Use good communication skills – use open and closed questioning to obtain all the information required
Listen carefully to responses
Maintain confidentiality of information
Discuss any contra-indications and contra-actions
Outline the benefits of the treatment
Plan a treatment programme (take into account client’s religious, moral and social beliefs)
Elicit why the techniques are effective
Explain what contra-indications and contra-actions are – why is it important to know these?
Will look further at these in a few minutes.
What law covers confidentiality of client information?

8. Suitable Consultation Techniques
Select, agree and make a record of treatment products
Obtain informed consent (agreement on course of action after receiving all relevant information) and agree the objectives and recommended treatment plan
How the completed treatment will be reviewed or evaluated
Maintenance of confidentiality and discretion
Agree with client the course of action and treatment methods advised
Obtain the client’s signature (signed by both client and therapist – legal document)
Discuss

9. Contra-indications and Contra-actions
refers to a condition that is present that will restrict or prevent make-up being carried out, or medical approval before procedures can go ahead
They include:
external conditions such as contagious skin diseases
Internal medical conditions that become apparent during consultation

10. Contra-indications and Contra-actions CONTRA-INDICATIONS
If a contra-indication is present, act discreetly – do not alarm the client. Inform the client, they should not be embarrassed or uncomfortable
Restrictions to treatment:
Non-contagious bacterial skin disorders (acne vulgaris, acne rosacea, boils) – if infected
Contagious viral skin disease (cold sores, warts) – avoid area or use disposable applicators and follow strict hygiene precautions
Non-contagious eye disorders (styes) – avoid area, use separate applicators on each eye
Cuts and abrasions – avoid area, make-up artist may wish to use protective gloves (PPE)
Bruising or swelling – avoid if painful to touch or if swelling is present
What does discreet mean?
Why do you need to be discreet?

11. Contra-indications The Risks
Performing procedures on clients that show contra-indications will:
Put clients at risk – the make-up could make the condition worse
Put other clients and the make-up artist at risk from cross-infection
Lead to insurance claims and the make-up artist being sued

12. – ie having an allergic reaction
Contra-actions
A contra-action is something that goes wrong during a treatment that can stop the treatment being carried out
– ie having an allergic reaction
Examples are:
The client’s skin is sensitive and erythema occurs during the make-up
The client fails to mention an existing condition or is not aware that they had one – such as eye infection
A rash occurs
Client’s eyes begin to water and smudge make-up application
If a contra-action occurs a cold compress must be applied or the product removed. Stop make-up application
Explain what erythema is - superficial reddening of the skin, usually in patches, as a result of injury or irritation causing dilatation of the blood capillaries.

13. Importance of respecting a client’s personal space
Don’t position yourself too close to your client.
Ensure the comfort of your client – both physical and mental – you need to take into account their age, gender, religious beliefs, nationality, sexual orientation, education, physical appearance, education, social class and economic status – as to how these may affect your client.
In pairs, demonstrate being too close/the correct manner
Discuss the reasons why

14. Advantages/Disadvantages of types of communication
Select and use the correct communication method(s) to suit the specific client and circumstances
See handout – teaching resource

15. Be able to prepare for make-up
Prepare Yourself
Work wear Personal behaviour and appearance
Prepare Client
Client care and modesty
Know procedure for preparing client for treatment
Prepare Work Area
Equipment Products (kit)
Hygiene (sterilising/sanitising tools/equipment)
Use Q&A and discuss the reasons why – recap on last session

16. Use suitable consultation techniques
Familiarise yourself with consultation form
Consult in a suitable area using positive body language
Position client appropriately
Communicate clearly to complete consultation form, create a treatment plan specifying products
Maintain confidentiality
Obtain consent and client’s signature
In pairs, complete a consultation form
Issue form
Discuss how to conduct a consultation

17. Introduction to make up application

18. So what as makeup artists do we need to know to ensure we can apply makeup correctly and also to protect our client?
In pairs have a think and list as many things as possible we need to take into consideration. You have 5 minutes

19. What do I need to learn?
In order to be able to carry out a competent facial treatment you will need to understand:
Health, safety and hygiene procedures.
How to correctly prepare for the treatment.
Consultation procedures.
Contra-indications to facial treatments.
Understand the effects of the different skin care products – cleansers, toners, moisturisers, massage mediums, masks and specialist products.
Skin analysis, how to recognise different skin types and conditions.
Facial routine – use and benefits of each stage of the facial.
Aftercare and contra-action advice.
Anatomy and physiology of the skin, muscles, bones, blood and lymph.
Factors that affect the skin.

20. How to Use Color Theory for Makeup Application
Warm and Cool Colors
Warm and cool colors form the basis of all makeup application.
Three main factors to consider when choosing colors for a client: skin color, eye color, and hair color.
HOW TO USE COLOR THEORY FOR MAKEUP APPLICATION
Warm and cool colors form the basis of all makeup application.
There are three main factors to consider when choosing colors for a client: skin color, eye color, and hair color. 20

21. Determining Skin Color
Determine if skin is light, medium, or dark and whether it has warm or cool undertones.
Warm colors range from yellow and gold through oranges, red-oranges, most reds, and even some yellow-greens.
Cool colors encompass blues, greens, violets, and blue-reds. 21

22. Structure of the Skin

23. Layers of the Skin The skin is made up of 3 main layers: Epidermis
Subcutaneous layer

24. Epidermis
This is the outermost layer of the skin (the part that you can see), it does not have a blood supply of its own and is made up of 5 layers:
Horny layer – the outer layer of the skin, this is made up of scale like cells which are continuously shed (corn flakes).
Clear layer- this is made up of small transparent cells through which light can pass. This layer is only present in the palms of the hands and soles of the feet.
Granular layer – this layer is usually 1-3 layers thick. The cells have distinct granules and keratin is produced in this layer.
Prickle cell layer – this layer is 3-6 layers thick and the cells are constantly dividing.
Germinating layer – a single basal layer of cells, that contain the pigment melanin. The cells of the epidermis are produced in this layer and have a distinct nuclei. These cells divide continuously by a process known as mitosis.

25. Diagram of a cross section of the epidermis
Horny layer – stratum corneum
Clear layer – stratum lucidum
Granular layer – stratum granulosum
Prickle cell layer – stratum spinosum
Germinating layer – stratum germinativum

26. Dermis
This layer is often referred to as the true skin as it forms the bulk of the skin. The dermis contains 2 layers:
Papillary Layer – lies directly under the epidermis, it is quite thin and has cone like projections called papillae. It provides nutrients and oxygen to the germinating layer of the epidermis
Reticular Layer – this lies below the papillary layer and is the main portion of the dermis. Within the reticular layer are collagen and elastin fibres. Collagen gives the skin a plump and youthful appearance and is a white fibrous tissue made up of proteins. Elastin gives the skin its elastic properties and is made up of yellow elastic tissue.
Within the dermis are various other structures known as appendages.

27. Subcutaneous layer
This is located under the dermis and is mainly made up of fat cells (adipose tissue). This fatty layer of the skin provides the plump contours of the body, protection, insulation, support and a food supply if needed. A certain amount of fat in the face is beneficial as it plumps out the facial contours making the face look more youthful. If a client looses a lot of weight quite rapidly you will notice that they look as though they have aged.

28. Sweat glands
The sweat glands, which are sometimes referred to as the sudoriferous glands, extend from the epidermis into the dermis and are found all over the body, however they are particularly numerous in the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet They regulate the body temperature by allowing sweat to evaporate from the body. There are two different types of sweat glands:
Eccrine glands – are found all over the body and secrete a watery fluid.
Apocrine glands – are found in the underarms, nipple and groin area and become active at puberty. They secrete a thicker fluid and body odour can occur when bacteria starts to break down the sweat.

29. Hair follicle
The hair follicle is an indentation of the epidermis with it’s walls forming a protective layer that houses the hair.

30. Hair shaft
The hair shaft is the portion of the hair that lies above the skins surface. It is the visible part that you see such as the eyebrows, eyelashes, body hair and the hair on the head.

31. Blood supply
Blood is supplied to the skin by small blood vessels known as blood capillaries. All parts of our body require a blood supply as it provides the vital oxygen and nutrients that tissues require in order to survive. The capillaries also remove waste products and toxins from the tissues. The capillaries also help to maintain the body temperature by dilating (widening) and constricting (narrowing).

32. Dermal papilla
The dermal papilla is the blood supply for the hair and its follicle. It provides food and oxygen, which are essential for the growth of the hair. The dermal papilla is a separate organ that serves the follicle; it is not part of the hair.

33. Arrector Pili Muscle
This muscle is attached to the hair follicle and it contracts when you are cold or frightened causing the hair to stand up on end. This action traps a layer of warm air around the body to keep the body warm. When the muscles contracts it pulls on the skin around the follicle opening therefore producing goose pimples.

34. Sebaceous glands
These glands are found all over the body except for the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet and produce the natural oil of the skin - sebum. The sebaceous glands become more active at puberty due to the increased levels of androgens (male hormone) being produced. Men generally secrete more sebum than women, and you will usually note that the sebaceous glands become less active as we get older. Sebum is bactericidal and fungicidal and so prevents against infection, it also provides protection and prevents the skin from drying out.

35. Nerve endings
Sensory nerve endings are found in the skin and detect changes in the environment such as heat, cold, touch, pain and pressure. There are different nerve endings that detect the different sensations. They send messages to our brain to let us know what we are feeling. Motor nerves bring messages from our brain to bring about a response.

36. Functions of the Skin

37. There are 7 main functions of the skin and these are:
Sensation
Heat regulation
Absorption
Protection
Excretion
Secretion
Vitamin D production

38. Sensation
Acts as a sense organ to detect changes in the environment such as heat, cold, touch, pressure and pain.

39. Heat regulation
Helps to keep body at a constant temperature of 37C by dilation (widening) and constriction (narrowing) of the blood vessels. Sweat evaporation also keeps the body cool. The subcutaneous fat insulates the body.

40. Absorption
The skin has a limited amount of absorption properties. It can absorb certain particles that are small enough to be absorbed such as female hormones, nicotine patches, ingredients within facial preparations etc.

41. Protection
A waterproof coat protects the body against dirt, bacterial infection and chemical attack.
Acid mantle pH 5.5 ( made up from sebum and sweat) discourages growth of bacteria and also fungi.
The horny layer of the epidermis acts as a filter against bacteria.
Melanin in the epidermis protects against damage form ultra violet rays.

42. Excretion
Waste products such as lactic acid, urea and salts are lost through perspiration, however this is only a minor function.

43. Secretion
Sebum is secreted by the sebaceous glands.

44. Vitamin D production
This occurs due to the reaction of sunlight on the skin producing a chemical reaction.

45. Skin Types & Conditions

46. There are various skin types and conditions that you must be able to analyse in order to give the client the best possible treatment and advice. In order to be able to recognise the skin types you must be able to understand how to recognise the characteristics or conditions that you will see.

47. There are a variety of factors that can influence a person’s skin type and conditions

48. Living and working conditions Smoking and alcohol intake
Hormones
Age
Stress
Incorrect products
Genetics
Race and colour
Living and working conditions
Smoking and alcohol intake
Medication
Illness
Poor nutrition

49. Skin Conditions

50. The different skin conditions
Sensitive
Dehydrated
Seborrhoea
Comedone
Papules & pustules
Open pores
Milia
Broken capillaries
Hyper pigmentation
Hypo pigmentation
Dermatosis papulosa nigra
Pseudo folliculitis
Pseudo folliculitis barbae
Keloids
Ingrowing hairs

51. Sensitive
Sensitivity can accompany any skin type and if present the skin would be prone to irritation, erythema and broken capillaries. There are two types of sensitive skin:
Touch sensitive - is sensitive to touch, heat and embarrassment and therefore needs to be treated gently. Otherwise, it can be treated using products for its main skin type.
Allergic sensitive - is prone to allergic reactions and must be treated with products that are designed for treating a sensitive skin. They will contain very natural ingredients, which have often been dermatologically tested for sensitive skins. These products will normally be labelled hypoallergenic.

52. Dehydrated
The skin tissues are lacking in water and all skin types can be affected. The characteristics of a dehydrated skin are:
Superficial criss-cross lines.
Broken capillaries.
Skin feels tight.
A clean, non-greasy tight shine is present in severe cases.
The factors that can contribute to a dehydrated skin are:
Diet, due to lack of water intake (recommend 6-8 glasses of water per day).
Environment - air conditioning and central heating in the car, home or workplace would cause dehydration.
Medication that the client is taking.
Illness - especially fevers which would cause loss of fluids from the body.

53. Seborrhoea
This is the result of over active sebaceous glands producing too much sebum, therefore a greasy shine appears on the surface of the skin. This condition accompanies oily and combination skins.

54. Comedone
This is the technical term for a blackhead. Comedones most commonly accompany an oily or combination skin. They are caused by an overproduction of sebum blocking the pore and when the sebum encounters oxygen the oxidising effect starts to darken the sebum, turning it into a black dot. Make- up and dirt may also block the pore making the comedone look even darker. Comedones are extracted by gently squeezing between fingers protected by tissues or by using a comedone extractor.

55. Papules and pustules
Papules are red spots caused by inflammation of the sebaceous gland. Pustules are yellow spots also caused by inflammation of the sebaceous glands; however, infection is also present, in the form of bacteria. They commonly occur on oily and combinations skins due to the overactive sebaceous glands. However, they can occur on other skin types as hormonal imbalances (often due to the menstrual cycle or stress) can cause them to appear.

56. Open Pores
The pores are more visible and appear enlarged. Open pores are common on oily areas of the skin. Once the pores have enlarged they can never return to normal size, so you will often see open pores on mature skins or on skins that have previously been oily or combination. Do not presume that just because the pores are open that the skin is oily, as this is a common mistake.

57. Milia
These are often present on a dry skin and are caused by overproduction of dry skin cells causing a blockage of the sebaceous gland. They appear as a small white pearl under the skins surface, often around the eye or cheek areas. Exfoliating and applying moisturiser on a regular basis can loosen milia. Alternatively, a qualified therapist can use a sterile micro-lance to pierce the skin and extract the milia.

58. Broken Capillaries Continued….
Commonly found on the cheeks or nose area these appear as small red/pink threads under the skins surface, most. Broken capillaries occur when the capillary walls constrict (narrow) and dilate (widen) too quickly causing the muscles in the walls to tear. This in turn allows the blood to seep out resulting in broken capillaries.
Continued….

59. Broken Capillaries
Dehydrated, dry and sensitive skins often have thin skin that provides less protection and therefore, these skin types are the most commonly effected. Common causes of broken capillaries are:
Hot conditions.
Wind blowing on the face.
Burning i.e. sunburn.
Moving from one extreme temperature to another.
Pressure i.e. squeezing spots or glasses pressing on the face.
Broken capillaries can be prevented by avoiding all of the above. Once formed they can be treated by a specialist form of electrolysis. There are also specialist creams on the market that aim to strengthen the capillary walls thus reducing the redness.

60. Hyper Pigmentation
This is when the skin has areas of darker coloured skin – it has increased pigment production. In general the darker the skin the more pigment is present. The colour of the skin is influenced by the amount of melanin being produced. Hyper pigmentation is common during pregnancy due to hormonal influences and also in old age when people develop liver spots (sometimes referred to as age spots). To prevent pigmentation patches occurring, advise the use of a sun block. Darker patches of skin can be disguised by the use of a concealer.

61. Hypo Pigmentation
This is when the skin has areas of paler coloured skin – it has decreased pigment production. A common medical condition that would display paler patches of skin is vitiligo. Hypo pigmentation can be disguised with the use of a concealer. Also advise the client to use a sun block to protect against burning caused by the sun’s rays.

62. Dermatosis Papulosa Nigra
This condition most often occurs on the faces of people of Hispanic or black origin and consists of 1-5mm brown-black papules which have a stuck-on appearance. It can occur from adolescence and is more common in females than males. It is also more common in darker pigmented black skin and may be hereditary. It can be treated by advanced electrolysis methods.

63. Pseudo Folliculitis
This is inflammation of the hair follicles due to bacterial or fungal infections. The area around hair follicles looks inflamed and acne- like, and often extrudes puss. It can occur in all skin and hair types and is not always related to shaving.

64. Pseudo Folliculitis Barbae
Commonly known as shaving bumps, is a widespread problem among people with curly hair and dark skin. As the hair follicle grows out of the skin, it immediately curls and re-enters the skin. The skin reacts to it as a foreign body and becomes inflames and irritated, creating bumps. Advise the use of an electrical shaver where possible (does not cut the hairs as short). The only way to totally prevent the condition reoccurring is for the client to grow a beard.

65. Keloids
A keloid is a scar that does not know when to stop growing. When the skin is injured, cells grow back to fill in the gap. In a keloid scar, the cells keep on reproducing, the result being overgrown scar tissue that looks shiny and is often dome-shaped. They can range in colour from slightly pink to red or dark brown. They feel hard and thick and are always raised above the surrounding skin.
People of African or Asian descent are more likely to develop Keloids than people with lighter skin. This condition can be treated by surgery, laser, cortisone injections or freezing.

66. Ingrowing Hairs
Ingrowing hairs are basically hairs that are trapped below the skin surface and there are 3 different types that can develop:
A coiled ingrowing hair
An infected ingrowth
A flat hair growing underneath the skin
Ingrowing hairs can occur due to dead skin cells building up over the hair follicle. This is common after shaving or waxing an area. The client should be advised to exfoliate and moisturise regularly to prevent ingrowing hairs.

67. Skin Types

68. Oily Young Dry Combination Mature Normal
The main skin types are:
Oily
Dry
Combination
Normal
These skin types could be present on a client who is:
Young
Mature

69. Oily
This skin type is most common in teenage years although can be found on skins of all ages. It has overactive sebaceous glands, which are controlled by the hormone levels. Common characteristics that you will see all over the face on this skin type are:
Open pores.
Papules (red spot).
Pustules (pustular spot).
Comedones.
Seborrhoea, producing a greasy shine.
A build up of dead skin cells making the skin appear coarse in texture.

70. Dry
This skin type is often associated with mature skins although can be found on skins of all ages. The sebaceous glands of this skin type are under-active and do not produce sufficient sebum. Using products that are too harsh for the skin may also cause the skin to become dry. This skin will often have:
Dry flaky patches, which may become red and irritated.
Tight pores.
Eyebrow dandruff.
Milia – often found on the skin around the eyes and cheeks.

71. Combination
This is a combination of 2 skin types with the skin typically having:
An oily ‘T Zone’ that comprises of the forehead, nose and chin. You will see some or all of the following: comedones, papules, pustules, open pore and a greasy shine.
The cheeks and neck will be either normal or dry. In these areas you will see the recognised characteristics for that skin type.

72. Normal
This skin type is quite rare and can only truly be called normal if it is seen on a young skin. It can be recognised by:
Good skin tone and texture.
Even colour.
No signs of any of the characteristics mentioned previously.

73. Mature
Within the beauty industry a client over the age of 25 is generally classed as mature. A mature skin often has characteristics of a dry skin although it can be present with any of the other skin types mentioned. A mature skin will show signs of some, or all of the following in varying degrees:
Expression lines appear, particularly around the eye area.
Loss of elasticity.
Facial contours may become slack.
Epidermis becomes thinner.
Broken capillaries often appear around the eye area.
Irregular patches of pigmentation form liver spots.
Blood circulation is not as efficient and therefore the skin often appears sallow.
Metabolic rate slows down therefore waste products are not removed as effectively and therefore the skin often looks puffy.
Fatty deposits are often laid down.
Pores look more enlarged as the skin is not as tight.

74. Young
A skin is classed as young up to the age of 25. It will show none of the characteristics listed above. It will therefore have:
No expression lines.
Good elasticity.
No irregular pigmentation.
Good blood supply.
No dropped contours.

75. Carry out a skin analysis and give feedback to client
Consider:
Overall skin type and condition
Pigmentation and colour
Skin texture and any imperfections
Skin tone
Skin temperature
Muscle tone
Skin elasticity
UV damage
Discuss

76. Observe consultation, recording information on consultation form and recommending products etc Observe cleaning of skin and applying Day make-up Take Notes!
Demonstrate: consultation, completion of consultation form, etc
Demonstrate cleaning of skin
Demonstrate applying Day make-up

77. Did you: Use good communication skills Use good listening skills
Project professionalism, confidence and enthusiasm when providing information
Demonstrate positive body language and maintenance of eye contact
Show respect, being aware of interpersonal space
Complete the reflection section of document
Get feedback from your partner – ask them to complete the second section
Feedback to be honest – perfection not expected at first

78. Practise filling in a Consultation Form
HOMEWORK
Practise filling in a Consultation Form
and applying Day make-up (at least twice)
Take a picture BEFORE and AFTER
Complete a reflection/feedback form for each time
(bring to class next session in a plastic pocket)