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Fashion

3. Fabric for Fashion / Clive Hallett and
Amanda Johnston
Section 1
Animal fibres: Luxury animal fibres

4. Objectives Identify the luxury animal fibre groups
Describe the main characteristics of alpaca, llama and vicuña fibres
Identify the key countries involved in the production of camel-hair fibre and fabric
Describe the production of cashmere and mohair
Summarize the main uses for yak, qiviut and angora rabbit fibres

5. Luxury animal fibres Fibres are derived from several animal groups
Coats are supremely soft and warm, with fine hairs and under-fleeces
Principal groups are from camelid, camel and goat families
Additional groups include yak, qiviut and angora rabbits

6. Camelids
Four South American camelids – alpaca, llama, vicuña and guanaco
Alpaca
Principal South American fibre-producing animal
Proactive marketing of processed fibre in the 1950s increased appeal
U.S., Canada, Australia and New Zealand started alpaca farming in the 1980s
Selective breeding has resulted in heavier fleeces and finer fibres

7. Camelids Two types of alpaca – huacaya and suri
Huacayas most common breed reared
Suris represent 20% of alpaca population; prized for finer, longer fibres
Huacaya fibre marketed as alpaca fleece
Suri fibre marketed as alpaca suri
Peruvian alpaca marketed with symbol of authenticity

8. Camelids
Alpaca fibre prized for fine, soft and silky-like characteristics
Extensive colour range; Peru classifies 52 colours of fleece, the U.S. 22
Processing similar to that for sheep’s wool fibres
Low environmental impact farming
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9. Camelids
Llama
Limited commercial market; fibre favoured by hand spinners for organic clothing
Low maintenance animals with low environmental impact
Thicker fibre count (20 to 40 microns); strong and light with good insulation properties
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10. Camelids Vicuña First of Camelidae family to be domesticated
Raised for their wool by Incas and protected by law
Declared endangered by mid 1970s and trade prohibited
Anti-poaching efforts led to dramatic comeback
Peru taken lead in vicuña conservation

11. Camelids
Peru principal exporter; labelling system is proof animals released back into wild after shearing
Finest of all animal fibres (6 to 14 microns)
Natural colour is rich golden honey; never dyed
Vicuña alpaca cross-breeds are called paco vicuña
Italy primary importer of vicuña cloth; Germany principal importer of vicuña clothing

12. Camel hair Camel hair obtained from two-humped bactrian camel
Best-quality hair from Inner Mongolia (northern China)
Iran, Afghanistan, Russia and Tibet produce camel hair
Australia and New Zealand now also produce camel hair
Clothing fibres are from camel’s down undercoat
Best fibres are from underside of baby camel

13. Camel hair Hair collected by combing, shearing or natural shedding
Camel hair is traditionally left undyed
Italy principal importer of fibre; U.S. main destination for camel- hair clothing
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14. Goat fibre
Most important fibre-producing goats are cashmere and angora
Cashmere
Fibre first woven into pashmina shawls by Kashmiri tribes
Fabric named after province of Kashmir (now Pakistan)
Fabric popularized due to export of shawls by colonial British
Himalayan mountain goat produces best fibre

15. Goat fibre Fibre must be under 18.5 microns to be labelled cashmere
Ratio of down to guard hairs must be above 30% and fibres over 3cm long
Through selective breeding Chinese goats yield most fibre
Colours range from fawn to brown; white most sought-after
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16. Goat fibre Best down and yield obtained through hand combing
Grading fibres by hand and eye is key to production
Cashmere production represents 1% of textile market   
China produces around 60% of global raw cashmere; Outer Mongolia around 20%
Scotland, Japan and Italy principal spinners of high- quality cashmere

17. Goat fibre Mohair Mohair fibre produced from angora goats
Name ‘angora’ derived from region now part of modern-day Ankara (Turkey)
Ottoman Empire banned export of raw fleeces
Goats imported to U.S. and South Africa by mid 19th century

18. Goat fibre Mohair fibre is crease resistant, smooth and lustrous
Durable, long staple fibres with moisture- wicking properties
Most valuable fibres are the fine under-down
Finest fibres produced from first clipping of kid goats
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19. Goat fibre
Angoras not as hardy as cashmere goats; require dry climate, good nutrition and grooming
Goats are shorn and fleeces processed to remove vegetable matter
South Africa and Lesotho produce over 50% of global output
Global production is about 1% of natural fibre production
France and Italy main producers of mohair fabric and garments
Japan largest importer of mohair fabric

20. Alternative animal fibres
Yak hair
Yaks are found in Tibet and China
Most valuable fibres are white, fine soft under- down from underbelly
Alternative to cashmere favoured by craft spinners and weavers
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21. Alternative animal fibres
Qiviut
Under-wool of musk ox from Alaska and Arctic regions of Canada
Revenue from commercial production benefits local communities
Fibre is eight times warmer than wool and softer than cashmere; used in fine knitwear

22. Alternative animal fibres
Angora rabbit
One of the oldest domesticated breeds
Principal fibre producing breeds are French (more guard hairs), German (higher fibre ratio), Giant (abundant yield) and Satin (softest and finest fibre)
China largest producer of angora hair
Angoras are albinos and need to be kept in semi- darkness

23. Alternative animal fibres
Angoras must be well fed and well groomed to produce superior quality yield
Fleeces can be shorn or plucked
Ideal for knitwear as produces ‘halo’ effect
If woven must be blended with wool
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24. Key points
Principal luxury animal fibre groups are from camelid, camel and goat families
Alpaca fibre fine, soft and silky; llama fibre thicker and coarser with good insulation properties; vicuña finest animal fibre
Northern China, Iran, Afghanistan, Russia and Tibet all produce camel hair; Italy main importer of fibre; U.S. key clothing destination
Himalayan mountain goat produces best cashmere fibre; mohair fibre produced from angora goat
Yak fibre used by craft spinners and weavers; qiviut and angora fibres popular for knitwear