1. Apparel Production Overview
Dilawar Shaikh

2. Introduction

3. Introduction to Garment Manufacturing
Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented activity with a great range of raw materials, product types, production volumes, supply chains, retail markets and associated technologies.
Companies range from small family business to multinationals.
The clothing industry is labour intensive industry.

4. Departments in garment manufacturing unit
Merchandising department
Sampling department
Fabric store department
Trims and accessories store department
Spreading & Cutting department
Sewing department
Washing department
Quality Assurance department
Finishing & Packaging department
Maintenance Department
Finance and Accounts Department
HR/Admin Department

5. Process flow in garment manufacturing unit
Buyer- Supplier Meeting
Production order placed
Sampling
generation for Purchase Order
Raw material procurement
Raw material inspection
Fabric washing
Pre production sample
Production
Shipment sample
Finishing
Packing
Shipment

6. Merchandising department

7. Process flow in merchandising department
Receipt of the techpack
sampling
Pattern making
Raw material procurement
Raw material inspection
Proto sample development
Getting approval on proto sample
Fit sample making
Getting the fit sample approved
BOM draft for production
Approval sample development
Order approved for production
Getting approvals on size set samples
R aw material inspection
GPT/FPT to conform to standards
Approval on pre production sample
Order file transferred to the production department
Follow up with the production department
Send shipment samples to the buyer
Follow up with the production department till delivery

8. Responsibilities of a merchandiser
Internal & external communication
Sampling
Preparing internal order sheets
Accessories & trims
Preparing purchase orders
Getting approvals on lab dips and bit looms
Advising and assisting production and quality department
Mediating production and quality departments
Helping documentation
Taking responsibility for inspections
Giving shipping instructions and following shipment
Source:

9. Sampling department

10. Responsibilities of sampling department
Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.
Checking pattern’s workability.
Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval.
Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples, to QC.
Minimizing operations and consumption.

11. Types of sample prepared
This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
Design development is either done by buyer or factory
The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.
Design development
Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is confirmed to the factory based on proto sample .
Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors with the style.
It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and then checked on the dress form.
The buyer may make the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the style details etc.
Proto sample
Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models or on dummy and for approval of construction details.
The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to be used for bulk production or sample yardage fabric is used.
Fit sample
In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for photo shoot sample.
Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various media like, print, TV or websites to see the response of the consumer.
Photo shoot sample
The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
In Sales man sample actual accessory, actual fabric is used or sample yardage need to be used.
This sample also very important stage of sampling as the sales of buyer depends upon this sample presentation, look, feel of fabric is important.
Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample
Source:

12. Types of sample prepared
The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make the sample in all sizes
1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to buyer.
Size set sample
The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to ensure the performance of the garment.
GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well as buyer.
The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
GPT sample (Garment Performance Test)
PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.
It has to be made in original fabric and trims
Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actual.
PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should be identical to PP sample.
The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the approval of preproduction sample.
Pre- production sample
Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and handle of fabric after washing.
Wash sample
The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of sewing line.
In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
TOP sample (Top of Production)
Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual shipment and sent to buyer.
The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch.
Shipment sample
Source:

13. Fabric store department

14. Functions of the fabric store department
Receive the fabric as per Buyers Requirements
Fabric inspection (four point system)
Conduct fabric test (e.g. Shrinkage, colour fastness etc.)
Issue to the production department as per the requirement

15. Fabric audit procedure
10% random inspection for sampling or lining or net fabric.
Inspection for production order fabric as per buyer’s requirement.
Perform GSM cutting.
Perform shrinkage test.
Check the fabric for the bowing or skewing.
Check fabric roll for the defects.
Allocate points to the defects.
The fabrics are checked for:
Shade (centre to selvedge)
Shrinkage (steam & fusing)
Width
Weaving defects

16. Trims and accessories
Store department

17. Functions of the trims and accessories department
To receive incoming material.
To check material for attribute & variables.
To arrange the incoming material in allocated racks.
To issue trims as per BOM for sampling and production & other material as per requirement.
To maintain a record of incoming & outgoing material.

18. Spreading and
cutting department

19. Spreading and cutting flow process
Planning
Spreading
Cutting
Preparation for sewing

20. Spreading and cutting flow process
Spreads
Planning
Markers
Production
Manual
Spreading
Machine
Manual
Cutting
Machine
Ticketing
Preparation
for sewing
Bundles

21. Planning
Spreads
Markers
Production

22. Cut order planning It translates customer orders into cutting orders
minimize total production costs
meet deadlines
seek most effective use of labor, equipment, fabric and space

23. Responsibilities of Cut Order Planning
Examining incoming orders and piece goods width and availability
Determining volume, size ratios, and sectioning procedures for marker making
Determining whether file markers are available or new ones are needed
Developing specifications for optimum marker making and fabric utilization
Determine most effective use of spreading and cutting equipment and personnel
Issuing orders for marker making, spreading and cutting

24. Cutting orders leads to
Marker planning
Lay planning

25. Marker planning
The results of cut order planning are cutting orders that direct marker planning and cut planning.
The purpose of marker planning is to determine the most efficient combination of sizes and shades for each order and to produce the best fabric yield and equipment utilization.
One cutting order may require several markers to achieve optimum efficiency.
A lay is a stack of fabric plies that have been prepared for cutting.
Lay planning is the basis of managing cutting room labor and table space.
Spreading and cutting schedules are affected by:
table length,
type of equipment,
spread length,
spreading time and
cutting time.

26. Marker
is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes to be cut from a single spread.
Marker making
is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric, and distribution of sizes (requires time, skill and concentration)

27. Marker making
Marker making is a critical step in the manufacturing process.
By retaining strict control over this critical step, they keep the fabric consumption as low as possible.
It also ensures that the issues that affect quality will be given proper attention. These include placing patterns on grain, keeping patterns paired, and attending to details such as drill holes and notches.
Depending on the relative efficiency of each marker produced, the company may save or waste thousands of dollars a year.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005

28. Marker making Markers types: Blocks or Sections Continuous
Blocked or sectioned markers contain all of the pattern pieces for one style in one or two sizes.
Continuous
Continuous markers contain all the pattern pieces for all sizes included in a single cutting.
Block or section marker
Continuous marker

29. Marker making Markers types: Open marker Closed marker
Marker made with full pattern pieces.
Closed marker
Marker made with half garment parts pieces for laying along the folds of the tube (tubular knit).
Closed marker

30. Marker making
Manually produced
Computerized marker
making (CAD)

31. Manual marker Marker making
Created on marker paper or directly on fabric ply
Tracing by pencil or tailor’s chalk.
Time consuming.
Subject to errors. (pattern overlap, grain line, poor line definition, omission of pcs.)
Accuracy depends on individual’s skill.

32. Marker making Computerised marker Accurate Shortest response time.
Direct or digitized.
Manipulate images to determine best utilization. No overlapping/no omissions
Parameters (style #,size, etc.) for markers are entered into the computer.
Can be printed/recalled/modified.
Criteria can be set by technician. Can be used to determine fabric requirement.

33. Marker making Marker mode : Nap/ One/ Way
The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is made with every pattern placed with the “down” direction of the pattern in the same direction.
This mode is necessary for fabrics that are asymmetric.
All patterns are placed on-grain, and in the “down” direction, which is usually toward the left edge (starting point where the legend is written).
The Nap/One/ Way marker is the highest quality but least efficient of the three nap directions for a marker.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005

34. Marker making Marker mode : Nap/ Either/ Way
The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is made where there is no restriction of which way the pattern are oriented.
The patterns may be oriented either “down” or “up”, placed wherever they fit best, only making sure that the patterns are on-grain.
The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most efficient mode yielding the highest fabric utilization.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005

35. Marker making Marker mode : Nap/ Up/& Down
The Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D) is more efficient than the Nap/ One/ Way marker, but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way marker.
In order to get a better fit between the patterns, alternating sizes of patterns are oriented in opposite directions.
This method is yields moderately good fabric utilization, and good quality.
Source: Kahn, Cohen and Soto, “Pre-Assembly Processes – The Cutting Room Marking, Spreading, Cutting and Bundling”, The Fashion Manufacturing Process A Product Development Approach, May 2005

36. Marker making Marker Efficiency Factors affecting marker efficiency
Area of patterns in the marker plan X 100%
Total area of the marker plan
It is determined for fabric utilization
Minimum waste
Factors affecting marker efficiency
Fabric characteristics (fabric width, length of design repeat etc.)
Shape of Pattern pieces (large pieces – less flexibility)
Grain requirements

37. Spreading Requirement of spreading Spreading equipment
Spreading is the processes of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table cutting table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process
Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker
Requirement of spreading
Shade sorting of cloth pieces
Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability
Alignment of plies
Correct ply tension
Elimination of fabric faults
Avoidance of distortion in the spread
Spreading equipment
Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)
Spreading machines

38. Spreading Spreading equipment
Spreading surfaces ( table, pin table, vacuum table)
Spreading machines

39. Spreading
Manual
Machine

40. Manual spreading
In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from its package which, if it is a roll, may be supported by a frame and carried along the table where the end is secured by weights or by clamps.
The operators work back from the end, aligning the edges and ensuring that there is no tension and that there are no wrinkles.

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