1. Textile Fibers and Yarns

2. Objectives:
List the main characteristics of natural and manufactured fibers
Explain how fibers are marketed
Summarize the role of leather and fur as primary materials in fashion
Describe new fiber innovations
Explain how fibers are made into yarns

3. Fiber Categories Natural
Originate from natural sources
Plant (cellulosic) or animal (protein)
Manufactured, synthetic, or man-made (terms interchangeable)
Originate from chemical sources
May also be from regenerated or recycled sources

4. Natural Fibers Cellulosic (from plants) Protein (from animals) Cotton
From cotton plants
Flax (linen)
From flax stems
Protein (from animals)
Silk
From cocoons of silkworms
Wool
From fleece (hair) of sheep or lambs

5. Textile Terms Fibers Yarns Fabrics Denier Staple: short fibers
Usually characterizes a natural fiber
Filament: long continuous fibers
Usually characterizes a synthetic fiber (except silk)
Denier
Fiber thickness or diameter
Yarns
Fibers twisted together
Ply refers to how many yarns may be twisted together before weaving
Fabrics
Yarns woven, knitted, or fused together to create fabric

6. Cotton Cellulosic fiber From “bolls” (seed pods) growing on bushes
Comfortable
Soft and durable
Absorbent, cool to wear
“Environmentally friendly” cotton can be grown in a range of colors

7. Wool Protein fiber From sheep
Worsted wool is higher quality with long staple fibers (over 2 inches)
Natural insulator
Will shrink and mat if washed

8. Flax (Linen) World’s oldest textile fiber
Cellulosic fiber from stem of flax plant
Stiff, wrinkles easily
Absorbent, cool to wear in heat
Other uses
Dish towels
Tablecloths
Linens
Flax is the fiber name; linen is the fabric name.

9. Other Natural Fibers Ramie Jute Sisal Hemp Raffia Cellulosic Fibers
Down feathers
Hair fibers from
Goats
Rabbits
Camels
Cellulosic Fibers
Protein Fibers

10. Marketing Natural Fibers
Natural fiber trade associations:
Cotton Incorporated
National Cotton Council
Wool Bureau, Inc.
Mohair Council of America
International Silk Association
Provide fabric libraries
Natural Fibers r cool

11. Leather and Fur From hides or pelts (skins) of animals Expensive
Artificial substitutes available (faux leather and fur)
Leather used mainly for footwear
Fur used for “prestige” apparel and accessories

12. Manufactured Fibers Process
Raw materials melted or dissolved to form thick syrup
Liquid extruded through spinneret
Extruded filaments stretched and hardened into fibers

13. Categories of Manufactured Fibers (generic groups)
Variants: trade or brand names given to slightly modified generic fibers
Example: ANTRON nylon used for hosiery
Generic group: a family of manufactured fibers with similar chemical composition
Common generic fibers from chemical or petroleum products:
Polyester
Nylon
Olefin
Acrylic

14. Manufactured Fibers Qualities that may be less than desirable
Feel clammy because they are nonabsorbent
Build up static electricity
Susceptible to oil stains
Qualities that are unique or superior to natural fibers
Elasticity
Nonallergenic
Strength
Resistant to abrasion

15. Other Types of Manufactured Fibers
Fibers that come from a plant (cellulosic) source; chemically altered to create new fibers (regenerated)
Rayon
Acetate and Triacetate
Lyocell

16. Fiber Innovation and Trends
Fibers are designed for specific end-uses
Polymers (chemical compounds) are engineered to meet needs
“Microfibers” are ultra-fine deniers that make softer, more luxurious fabrics
Spandex added in fiber blends to make stretchable fabrics
NEW!!
Plastic soft drink bottles recycled into apparel

17. Marketing Manufactured Fibers
Trademarked variants assure consumers of quality
American Fiber Manufacturers Association helps inform the consumer, maintain government relations, and monitor foreign trade policy

18. Spinning Fibers into Yarns
Spinning draws, twists, and winds staple, filament, or blends of both fibers into long, cohesive strands or yarns
Yarns wound onto bobbins or spools
Twist may vary, creating different yarn properties
Early 18th century spinning wheel

19. Yarn Terminology Yarn blends Combination yarns Textured yarns
Combining two or more fibers into a spun yarn
Combination yarns
Contain two or more plys of different fibers
Textured yarns
Changing the surface of a yarn using chemicals, heat, or machinery
Texturing gives bulk, stretch, softness, and wrinkle-resistance to yarns.

20. Do You Know . . .
The American Yarn Spinners Association deals with the government on yarn-industry issues such as trade laws, customs regulations, packaging, labeling, and product standards.