1. Textile Fabrics and Finishes

2. Objectives: Identify most common fabric constructions
Describe main fabric finishing procedures
Recognize importance of quality and performance standards
Summarize aspects of the textile industry
Explain how fabrics are sold down the chain
Cite textile industry trade information
Tell about future predictions for textiles

3. Fabric Design and Construction
Two forms of design
Structural Design
“Building in” texture or interest during manufacturing process
Weaving and knitting most common
Applied Design
Adding color, pattern, or other features to the structural design
Printing on fabric

4. Fabric Construction Methods
Weaving
Plain: crosshatch pattern
Twill: diagonal wale
Satin: floating yarns
Knitting
Weft
Warp
Nonwoven
Fused
Felted
Films

5. Fabric Terms Grain – direction yarns run in the fabric Selvage SELVAGE
Lengthwise - warp
Crosswise - weft
Diagonal - bias
Selvage
“Finished” weft edge of fabric
SELVAGE
WARP
WEFT
BIAS
SELVAGE
CUT EDGE

6. Variations of Weaves Stripes Checks Plaids Jacquard Pile fabrics
Terry cloth
Corduroy
Velvet

7. Knitting Looping yarn together Made using one yarn
Built-in stretch
Wrinkle resistant
Does not ravel like woven material, but may run
Weft (filling) stretches in both directions
Warp stretches one direction; run-proof

8. Nonwoven Fabrics Compact web of fibers (not yarns) constructed using
Moisture
Heat
Chemicals
Friction
Pressure
No grain

9. Other Construction Methods
Laces and Nets
Made by knotting
Decorative trim
Braids
Decorative trims
Bonded fabrics
Fusible web
Interfacing and hem tape
Quilted fabrics

10. Fabric Finishing Converters
Mills that change greige goods into finished fabrics
Applying colors, designs, or surface treatments
Bleaching
Dyeing
Printing
Finishes

11. Dyeing Fiber Adding color to fibers before spinning into yarns Yarn
Placing yarns in dye bath
before making into fabric
Piece
Fabrics dyed after weaving or knitting
Garment
Dyed after construction

12. Printing Adding color, pattern, or design to surface of fabric
Overall prints
Same across fabric
Directional prints
Specific direction to pattern
Plaids
Even - same in warp and weft
Uneven - different in warp or weft

13. Printing Methods Heat Transfer Roller Screen Digital Rotary Screen
Design on printed paper transferred to fabric by heat and pressure
Digital
Computer method uses ink-jet printing
Flocking
Fibers attached by patterned glue
Roller
Applies color design by roller
Screen
Similar to stenciling
Rotary Screen
Applies color design by cylinder-shaped nylon screens

14. Fabric Finishes Mechanical finishes affect size and appearance
By heat, moisture, stretching, singeing
Example: preshrinking
Chemical finishes affect performance
Permanent press
Waterproof
Water repellent
Flame resistant
Antistatic
Stain and soil resistant

15. Standards Quality Performance
Rate textiles according to levels of defects
Performance
Rate textiles for specific end-use suitability

16. The Textile Industry
Specialized companies perform stages of the textile segment of the chain
Technology necessary
CAD/CAM
Fashion
Tracking designs, trends, forecasts
Marketing
Planning, pricing, promoting, distributing

17. Selling Finished Fabrics
Staple fabrics
Sold each year with little or no change in construction
Novelty fabrics
Fashion fabrics that change with style trends
Overruns
When a mill makes more fabric than was ordered by customers

18. Trade Information TEXTILES
American Textile Manufacturers Institute, Inc. (ATMI)
Industry-wide marketing, government relations, trade policies
American Printed Fabrics Council, Inc. (APFC)
Printing achievements
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
Wet processing aspects
TEXTILES

19. Future of Textiles Continued U.S. innovation
Stay internationally competitive
Update plants
Continued automation
Flexibility and versatility for shorter production runs of different fabrics
Increased knit production
Textile firms need more sophisticated marketing techniques

20. Do You Know . . .
A finishing term that ends in “proof” means complete protection (as in waterproof).
Hand is the term used for textiles that refers to the way fabrics feel to the touch. Hand may apply to drape, softness, firmness, crispness, or elasticity.