1. Growing Cycles, Common Sizes, Training and Pruning
Deciduous Fruit Trees
Growing Cycles, Common Sizes, Training and Pruning
Deciduous Fruit Tree Growing Cycle
Growing Cycles, Common Sizes, Training and Pruning
© Ron LaFond 2006

2. Timing of the Cycle The timing of the cycle depends on several factors
Local climate
Local weather
Plant varieties
Timing of the Cycle
The timing of the cycle depends on several factors
Local climate
Local weather
Plant varieties
© Ron LaFond 2006

3. Early Spring The plant is at the end of its dormant stage
Vegetative or foliage buds are swelling
Reproductive or flower buds begin to open
Early Spring
The plant is at the end of its dormant stage
Vegetative or foliage buds are swelling
Reproductive or flower buds begin to open
© Ron LaFond 2006

4. Mid to Late Spring Flowering is in full swing Leafing-out begins
Earliest blooms are dropping
First fruit are forming
Mid to Late Spring
Flowering is in full swing
Leafing-out begins
Earliest blooms are dropping
First fruit are forming
© Ron LaFond 2006

5. Early Summer Leafing-out is complete Branches are growing longer
Fruit should be thinned
Early Summer
Leafing-out is complete
Branches are growing longer
Fruit should be thinned
© Ron LaFond 2006

6. Mid to Late Summer Fruit are ripening Vegetative growth is slowing
Next season’s flower buds are beginning to forming
Mid to Late Summer
Fruit are ripening
Vegetative growth is slowing
Next season’s flower buds are beginning to forming
© Ron LaFond 2006

7. Fall Vegetative growth stops Last of the fruit are ripe
Leaves begin to drop
Bud scales form over reproductive and vegetative buds
Tree enters dormancy
Fall
Vegetative growth stops
Last of the fruit are ripe
Leaves begin to drop
Bud scales form over reproductive and vegetative buds
Tree enters dormancy
© Ron LaFond 2006

8. Winter Leaves have dropped Tree is dormant
Flower buds finish forming with winter chill
Winter
Leaves have dropped
Tree is dormant
Flower buds finish forming with winter chill
© Ron LaFond 2006

9. Late Winter – Early Spring
In late Winter to early Spring the flower buds swell and bud scales crack and fall away
The cycle begins again
Late Winter – Early Spring
In late Winter to early Spring the flower buds swell and bud scales crack and fall away
The cycle begins again
© Ron LaFond 2006

10. Winter Chill
An accumulation of temperatures of 45ºF or less through the Winter dormancy
Winter chill is measured in hours
Winter chill is necessary for most deciduous fruit varieties to set fruit
Some varieties require as much as 750 hours of Winter chill
We might get 300 to 350 hours
Winter Chill
An accumulation of temperatures of 45ºF or less through the Winter dormancy
Winter chill is measured in hours
Winter chill is necessary for most deciduous fruit varieties to set fruit
Some varieties require as much as 750 hours of Winter chill
We might get 300 to 350 hours
© Ron LaFond 2006

11. Sizes of Fruit Trees
Fruit trees are commonly grown in 4 different sizes
Standard trees – 20’ to 35’
Semi-dwarf trees – 10’ to 15’
Dwarf trees – 5’ to 8’
Genetic dwarf trees 3’ to 5’
Sizes of Fruit Trees
Fruit trees are commonly grown in 4 different sizes
Standard trees – 20’ to 35’
Semi-dwarf trees – 10’ to 15’
Dwarf trees – 5’ to 8’
Genetic dwarf trees 3’ to 5’
© Ron LaFond 2006

12. Training Methods for Young Fruit Trees
Originally printed in 1944
Training Methods for Young Fruit Trees
© Ron LaFond 2006

13. Training Young Fruit Trees
Framework of fruit and nut trees is developed in the first 3 years
3 common methods used to train young trees
Central leader method
Modified central leader method
Vase method
Ultimate height of the tree determines the method selected
Training Young Fruit Trees
Most of the framework of fruit and nut trees is developed in the first 3 years
There are 3 common methods used to train young fruit and nut trees
Central leader method
Modified central leader method
Vase method
The ultimate height of the tree determines the method selected
© Ron LaFond 2006

14. Central Leader Method
The tree is maintained with a single central leader
This creates a strong and typically taller tree
This method produces more internal shade and less ventilation
Taller trees require taller ladders
Central Leader Method
The tree is maintained with a single central leader
This creates a strong and typically taller tree
This method produces more internal shade and less ventilation
Taller trees require taller ladders
© Ron LaFond 2006

15. Central Leader Method
Central Leader Method
© Ron LaFond 2006

16. Modified Central Leader Method
A compromise between the central leader method and the vase method
Produces the strength of a central trunk yet opens the tree to light and ventilation
Central leader stops at 6’ to 10’ and just above a branch
Modified Central Leader Method
This method is a compromise between the central leader method and the vase method
The modified central leader method produces the strength of a central trunk yet opens the tree to light and ventilation like vase pruning
The central leader is stopped at 6’ to 10’ and just above a branch
© Ron LaFond 2006

17. Modified Central Leader Method
Scaffold branches are selected
Choose scaffold branches for position –
Radial symmetry
Vertical placement
Angle of branch crotch
Subsequent prunings follow the vase method
This method also produces a taller tree requiring taller ladders
Modified Central Leader Method
Main scaffold branches are selected along the trunk
Choose scaffold branches for position – radial symmetry, vertical placement and angle of branch crotch
Subsequent prunings follow the vase method
This method also produces a taller tree requiring taller ladders
© Ron LaFond 2006

18. Modified Central Leader Method
© Ron LaFond 2006

19. Vase Pruning Method
Most widely used method particularly in backyard orchards
Accessible canopy –6’ or 8’ step ladders
Open center for maximum light and ventilation
Commonly used with apricots, plums, nectarines and peaches
Can be used with apples, pears and olives
Vase Pruning Method
Vase pruning is the most widely used method particularly in backyard orchards
The canopy of the tree is most accessible – can be reached with a 6’ or 8’ step ladder
Creates an open center for maximum light and ventilation
This method is commonly used with apricots, plums, nectarines and peaches
It can be used with apples, pears and olives
© Ron LaFond 2006

20. Vase Pruning Method The trunk stays short – to 3’
3 main scaffold limbs are selected
Secondary branches are selected to fill out the primary scaffold branches
Vase Pruning Method
The trunk stays short – to 3’
Typically 3 main scaffold limbs are selected
Secondary branches are selected to fill out the primary scaffold branches
© Ron LaFond 2006

21. Vase Pruning Method
Vase Pruning Method
© Ron LaFond 2006

22. Vase Pruning
Step-By-Step
Vase Pruning
Step-By-Step
© Ron LaFond 2006

23. Expectations
When someone plants a fruit tree – when do they want to see their first crop?
What is the biggest mistake most people make when planting fruit trees?
Expectations
When someone plants a fruit tree – when do they want to see their first crop?
What is the biggest mistake most people make when planting fruit trees?
© Ron LaFond 2006

24. At Planting When planting from a bare-root
Cut the main leader back to about 2-1/2’ above the ground above a strong lateral bud
Prune any remaining lateral branches back to 2 buds
If planting from a container – cut back the 1st dormant season
Let grow during 1st growing season – no pruning
At Planting
When planting from a bare-root
Cut the main leader back to about 2-1/2’ above the ground above a strong lateral bud
Prune any remaining lateral branches back to 2 buds
If planting from a container – cut back the 1st dormant season
Let the tree grow during the 1st growing season – do no pruning
© Ron LaFond 2006

25. Cut At Too Steep Of An Angle
Cutting Above A Bud
Cutting Above A Bud
From left to right
Leader was cut too far above the bud
Leader was cut too close to the bud
Leader was cut at too steep of an angle
Leader was cut correctly
Cut Too Long
Cut Too Close To the Bud
Cut At Too Steep Of An Angle
Cut Just Right
© Ron LaFond 2006

26. The First Dormant Season
The tree has been in the ground for an entire growing season
2nd season if planted during the season from a container
Select 3 branches with wide crotch angles
Evenly distributed radially
6” to 8” vertical spacing between them
The First Dormant Season
After the tree has been in the ground for an entire growing season
The second season if planted during the season from a container
Select 3 branches with wide crotch angles
They should be evenly distributed radially
There should be 6” to 8” vertical spacing between them
© Ron LaFond 2006

27. The First Dormant Season
These will become the main scaffold branches
Head back to about 1/2 their length
Cut remaining main leader off above the “new” top scaffold branch
If less than 3 branches to choose from – do not cut off the remaining leader
Select the 3rd scaffold branch the following season
The First Dormant Season
These will become the main scaffold branches
Head these branches back to about 1/2 their length
Cut the remaining main leader off above the “new” top scaffold branch
If there are less than 3 branches to choose from – do not cut off the remaining leader
Select the 3rd scaffold branch the following season
© Ron LaFond 2006

28. Second Growing Season Select 2 buds to develop into lateral branches
One towards the end
One about 1/2 way back to the trunk
From the sides of the scaffold branches – not the top or bottom
Let these branches develop throughout the summer with no pruning
Second Growing Season
Select 2 buds to develop into branches along the scaffold branches
Select one towards the end and one about 1/2 the distance back to the trunk
They should come from the sides of the scaffold branches – not the top or bottom
Let these branches develop throughout the summer with no pruning
© Ron LaFond 2006

29. Second Dormant Season
Reduce the scaffold branches back by about 2/3s above a strong bud or lateral branch
Head back the lateral branches by half – to upward and outward facing buds
The “fruiting cylinder” is formed by the removal of branches in the center of the canopy
This style of pruning develops a cylinder of foliage hollow in the center
Second Dormant Season
Reduce the scaffold branches back by about 2/3s above a strong bud or lateral branch
Head back the lateral branches by half – to upward and outward facing buds
The “fruiting cylinder” is formed by the removal of branches in the center of the canopy
This style of pruning develops a cylinder of foliage hollow in the center
© Ron LaFond 2006

30. Third Growing Season
Most trees should be ready to bear and support a fruit crop
Subsequent prunings should all be done during the winter dormancy period
After pruning remove all foliage from the tree and off of the ground
Remove any “mummies” from the tree
Third Growing Season
Most trees should be ready to bear and support a fruit crop
Subsequent prunings should all be done during the winter dormancy period
After pruning remove all foliage from the tree and off of the ground
Remove any “mummies” from the tree
© Ron LaFond 2006

31. Pruning the Most Common Fruit Trees
Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Oriental Plums, Apples, Pears and Cherries
Pruning the Most Common Fruit Trees
Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Oriental Plums, Apples, Pears and Cherries
© Ron LaFond 2006

32. Peaches and Nectarines
Produces fruit on 1 year old or last season’s growth
Prune 1/2 to 2/3 of all of last season’s wood
Reasons:
Fast growing
Needs new wood to bear fruit on
Hard pruning helps to support weight of crops
Peaches and Nectarines
Produces fruit on 1 year old or last season’s growth
Prune 1/2 to 2/3 of all 1 last season’s wood
Reasons:
Fast growing
Needs new wood to bear fruit on
Hard pruning helps to support weight of crops
© Ron LaFond 2006

33. Apricots & Oriental Plums
Produces fruit spurs on 2nd year wood
Fruit spurs are short-lived – 3 to 4 years
Prune to maintain shape, size light and ventilation – thin mostly
Head back last season’s wood by 1/3 to 1/2
Reasons:
Stimulate more fruiting wood – preserving older wood to encourage new fruit spur development
Support the weight of crops
Allow light and air circulation
Apricots & Oriental Plums
Produces fruit spurs on 2nd year wood
Fruit spurs are short-lived – 3 to 4 years
Prune to maintain shape, size light and ventilation – thin mostly
Head back last season’s wood by 1/3 to 1/2
Reasons:
Stimulate more fruiting wood while preserving enough older wood to encourage new fruit spur development
Support the weight of crops
Allow light and air circulation
© Ron LaFond 2006

34. Apples, Pears & Cherries
Produces on long-lived fruit spurs that develop on 2 to 3 year old wood
Fruit spurs can live 20 to 25 years
Prune to maintain shape, size light and ventilation – thin mostly
Reason:
Slow growing – heavy pruning is not necessary
Apples, Pears & Cherries
Produces on long-lived fruit spurs that develop on 2 to 3 year old wood
Fruit spurs can live 20 to 25 years
Prune to maintain shape, size light and ventilation – thin mostly
Reason:
Slow growing – heavy pruning is not necessary
© Ron LaFond 2006

35. In General The hardest pruning is done at the top of the tree
The goal is to:
Maintain the desires height
Maintain the overall shape and size
Less hard-pruning is done within the fruiting cylinder
In General
The hardest pruning is done at the top of the tree
The goal is to:
Maintain the desires height
Maintain the overall shape and size
Less hard-pruning is done within the fruiting cylinder
© Ron LaFond 2006

36. Roses
Roses
© Ron LaFond 2006

37. Hybrid Tea Roses Prune in winter when dormant
Bloom on current season’s growth
Remove all suckers below the graft union
Remove any dead, damaged or diseased canes
Develop 6 to 12 equally spaced canes
Younger canes tend to flower heavier
Canes should be from 18” to 36” high by 1/2” in diameter
Hybrid Tea Roses
Prune in winter when dormant
Bloom on current season’s growth
Remove all suckers below the graft union
Remove any dead, damaged or diseased canes
Develop 6 to 12 equally spaced canes
Younger canes tend to flower heavier
Canes should be from 18” to 36” high by 1/2” in diameter
© Ron LaFond 2006

38. Hybrid Tea Roses
After pruning the shrub should appear as an open vase shape with few to no branches
All cuts should be made to upward and outward facing buds
Cuts should be made at a slight angle away from the bud
Remove all foliage from the plant and ground
Hybrid Tea Roses
After pruning the shrub should appear as an open vase shape with few to no branches
All cuts should be made to upward and outward facing buds
Cuts should be made at a slight angle away from the bud
After pruning remove all foliage from the plant and ground under the plant
© Ron LaFond 2006

39. Climbing Roses Prune in winter when dormant
Flowers occur towards the ends of new growth in spring and summer
Train canes horizontally to establish a framework
As new lateral canes develop along the main canes train horizontally
Climbing Roses
Prune in winter when dormant
Flowers occur towards the ends of new growth in spring and summer
Train canes horizontally to establish a framework
As new lateral canes develop along the main canes train horizontally
© Ron LaFond 2006

40. Climbing Roses
Horizontal canes should be spaced about 12” to 18” apart
In winter thin lateral growth to space 12” apart
Head remaining lateral growth to 2 to 3 buds
Periodically replace main horizontal canes
Climbing Roses
Horizontal canes should be spaced about 12” to 18” apart
In winter thin lateral growth to space 12” apart
Head remaining lateral growth to 2 to 3 buds
Periodically replace main horizontal canes
© Ron LaFond 2006

41. Saving Old and Overgrown Plants
Rejuvenation Pruning
Saving Old and Overgrown Plants
Rejuvenation Pruning
© Ron LaFond 2006

42. Rejuvenation Pruning A.K.A. Restoration Pruning
Method used to restore the beauty and vigor of old, overgrown woody trees and shrubs
Can be used to maintain a desired size of potentially large landscape shrubs
Typically done over a series of pruning sessions – reducing stress to the plant
Rejuvenation Pruning
A.K.A. Restoration Pruning
A method of pruning used to restore the beauty and vigor of old and overgrown woody trees and shrubs
The method can be used to maintain a desired size of potentially large landscape shrubs
It is typically done over a series of pruning sessions or seasons to reduce stress to the plant caused by the removal of large quantities of older and larger growth
© Ron LaFond 2006

43. How Much First remove any dead, damaged or diseased wood
Next begin to remove about 1/3 of the oldest, largest living branches
On older, larger plants it may be necessary to remove less at one time
This is a judgment call based on the gardener’s experience and knowledge of the plant
How Much
First remove any dead, damaged or diseased wood
Next begin to remove about 1/3 of the oldest, largest living branches
On older, larger plants it may be necessary to remove less at one time
This is a judgment call based on the gardener’s experience and knowledge of the plant
© Ron LaFond 2006

44. How Often
Rejuvenation pruning is typically done over a series of at least three seasons
In some cases 4 or more seasons may be required to complete the process
To continue to maintain shrubs remove some of the oldest wood every year
Always use good pruning techniques
How Often
Rejuvenation pruning is typically done over a series of at least three seasons
In some cases 4 or more seasons may be required to complete the process
To continue to maintain shrubs remove some of the oldest wood every year
Always use good pruning techniques
© Ron LaFond 2006

45. Shearing vs. Hand Pruning
© Ron LaFond 2006

46. Shearing Fast, non-selective method of pruning
It should be limited to plants with leaf sizes of less than 1”
It should also be limited to plants that can recover fast enough to hide the sheared leaf stubble and exposed ends
Shearing forces the growth of adventitious buds along stem internodes causing a heavy buildup of growth at stem-ends
Shearing
Fast, non-selective method of pruning
It should be limited to plants with leaf sizes of less than 1”
It should also be limited to plants that can recover fast enough to hide the sheared leaf stubble and exposed ends
Shearing forces the growth of adventitious buds along stem internodes causing a heavy buildup of growth at stem-ends
© Ron LaFond 2006

47. Shearing
Continual shearing can lead to the buildup of exposed, dead or bare stem ends
Very often, continual shearing will require rejuvenation pruning to restore a plant’s appearance
Depending upon the type of plant and the frequency of shearing, rejuvenation pruning may need doing annually
Shearing
Continual shearing can lead to the buildup of exposed, dead or bare stem ends
Very often, continual shearing will require rejuvenation pruning to restore a plant’s appearance
Depending upon the type of plant and the frequency of shearing, rejuvenation pruning may need doing annually
© Ron LaFond 2006

48. Shearing
For smaller areas, consider using hand-shears – they typically do a better job than power hedge trimmers
Or better still, consider hand pruning
Shearing
For smaller areas, consider using hand-shears – they typically do a better job than power hedge trimmers
Or better still, consider hand pruning
© Ron LaFond 2006

49. Hand Pruning A slower method Offers more selectivity
Hand pruning allows removal of exactly what was intended
Hand pruning eliminates the unsightly leaf damage, buildup of dead stem-ends and adventitious growth
Hand pruning tends to reduce the frequencies of subsequent prunings
Hand Pruning
A slower method
Offers more selectivity
Hand pruning allows removal of exactly what was intended
Hand pruning eliminates the unsightly leaf damage, buildup of dead stem-ends and adventitious growth
Hand pruning tends to reduce the frequencies of subsequent prunings
© Ron LaFond 2006

50. Pruning and Rejuvenation
Ground Covers
Pruning and Rejuvenation
Ground Covers
Pruning and Rejuvenation
© Ron LaFond 2006

51. Ground Cover Basics
Many different types of plants are used as ground covers in today’s landscapes
In the truest sense of the definition, ground covers should be able to spread and root along the stems that come into contact with the soil
Ground Cover Basics
Many different types of plants are used as ground covers in today’s landscapes
In the truest sense of the definition, ground covers should be able to spread and root along the stems that come into contact with the soil
© Ron LaFond 2006

52. Ground Cover Basics
Many plants that do not fit into this definition are still used as and are referred to as “ground covers” and in many cases can best be described as low fillers
The methods of pruning described here are intended for use on the plant materials that comply with this definition of “ground cover”
Ground Cover Basics
Many plants that do not fit into this definition are still used as and are referred to as “ground covers” and in many cases can best be described as low fillers
The methods of pruning described here are intended for use on the plant materials that comply with this definition of “ground cover”
© Ron LaFond 2006

53. Restoration Over time many groundcovers can develop thick overgrowth
This overgrowth is often a source of:
Invertebrate pests – slugs, snails and various insects
Vertebrate pests – rats and mice
Diseases
The overgrown vegetation often inhibits irrigation
Restoration
Over time many groundcovers can develop thick overgrowth
This overgrowth is often a source of:
Invertebrate pests – slugs, snails and various insects
Vertebrate pests – rats and mice
Diseases
The overgrown vegetation often inhibits irrigation
© Ron LaFond 2006

54. Restoration
Many ground covers benefit from periodic scalping to reduce the overgrowth
Before scalping groundcovers:
Locate all irrigation heads
Remove all debris
Rotary brush-mowers are typically used
Restoration
Many ground covers benefit from periodic scalping to reduce the overgrowth
Before scalping groundcovers all irrigation heads should be located and all loose debris removed
Rotary brush-mowers are typically used for the process
© Ron LaFond 2006

55. Rotary Brush-Mower
Rotary Brush-Mower
© Ron LaFond 2006

56. Restoration
Periodic scalping increases light and air circulation producing healthier, more lush vegetation
Periodic scalping also reduces the buildup of dead stubble at the edges of the ground cover planting
Annual scalping can be done at the end of the dormant season – depending on the ground cover type and vigor
Restoration
Periodic scalping increases light and air circulation producing healthier, more lush vegetation
Periodic scalping also reduces the buildup of dead stubble at the edges of the ground cover planting
Annual scalping can be done at the end of the dormant season – depending on the ground cover type and vigor
© Ron LaFond 2006

57. Maintenance
Edging should be done at a steep angle to reduce the buildup of stubble along the edges
Balanced fertilizers can be used once a year – after scalping or at the start of the growing season
Some ground covers may require periodic feeding, others none at all
Maintenance
Edging should be done at a steep angle to reduce the buildup of stubble along the edges
Balanced fertilizers can be used once a year – after scalping or at the start of the growing season
Keep in mind some ground covers may require periodic feeding, others none at all
© Ron LaFond 2006

58. Non-Traditional Ground Covers
Some woody, spreading plants may fall into this category, i.e. junipers
It is inappropriate to scalp such plants
It is best not to edge these plants
Prune what needs to be pruned using only hand pruners
Non-Traditional Ground Covers
Some woody, spreading plants may fall into this category, i.e. junipers
It is inappropriate to scalp such plants
It is best not to edge these plants
Prune what needs to be pruned using only hand pruners
© Ron LaFond 2006

59. Non-Traditional Ground Covers
Thin out or head back selected branches by following them back into the plant and removing them at a logical point
Always HIDE YOUR CUTS!
This method maintains a softer appearance
Non-Traditional Ground Covers
Thin out or head back selected branches by following them back into the plant and removing them at a logical point
Always HIDE YOUR CUTS!
This method maintains a softer appearance
© Ron LaFond 2006

60. The Right Tool For The Job
Any job requires the use of the correct tool
It is important to the correct pruning equipment when pruning any plant
The Right Tool For The Job
Any job requires the use of the correct tool
It is important to the correct pruning equipment when pruning any plant
© Ron LaFond 2006

61. Hand Pruners There are two common types of hand pruners
Hand pruners are typically good for cuts up to about 3/4” in diameter – depending on the hardness of the wood
Hand Pruners
There are two common types of hand pruners
Hand pruners are typically good for cuts up to about 3/4” in diameter – depending on the hardness of the wood
© Ron LaFond 2006

62. Bypass Pruners
Cuts with a “scissor” action with one blade passing by the other
Bypass pruners tend to make cleaner cut
Bypass Pruners
Cuts with a “scissor” action with one blade passing by the other
Bypass pruners tend to make cleaner cuts
© Ron LaFond 2006

63. Anvil Pruners Cuts with one sharp blade coming down on to another
Anvil pruners tend to crush stems
Anvil Pruners
Cuts with one sharp blade coming down on to another
Anvil pruners tend to crush stems
© Ron LaFond 2006

64. Loppers Loppers can be described as “long-handled” hand pruners
Most loppers are good for cuts up to 1-1/2” diameter
Larger loppers are made to handle cuts up to 2-1/2” diameter
Handel lengths vary as well
Loppers also provide an extended reach – even when cutting smaller diameter branches
Loppers
Loppers can be described as “long-handled” hand pruners
Most loppers are good for cuts up to 1-1/2” diameter
Larger loppers are made to handle cuts up to 2-1/2” diameter
Handel lengths vary as well
Loppers also provide an extended reach – even when cutting smaller diameter branches
© Ron LaFond 2006

65. Loppers Anvil Lopper Bypass Lopper Loppers Left – bypass lopper
Right – anvil lopper
Anvil Lopper
Bypass Lopper
© Ron LaFond 2006

66. Hedge Shears Used to shear hedges
Can also be used to quickly dead-head herbaceous perennials
They can offer some selectivity when shearing
When kept sharp and clean they leave clean, crisp cuts
Hedge Shears
Used to shear hedges
Can also be used to quickly dead-head herbaceous perennials
They can offer some selectivity when shearing
When kept sharp and clean they leave clean, crisp cuts
© Ron LaFond 2006

67. Hedge Shears
Hedge Shears
© Ron LaFond 2006

68. Pruning Saws
Pruning saws vary in shape and size depending upon the task
They typically have coarser blade – a carpenter’s saw doesn’t work
Pruning Saws
Pruning saws vary in shape and size depending upon the task
They typically have coarser blade – a carpenter’s saw doesn’t work
© Ron LaFond 2006

69. Pruning Saws Folding Limb Saw Bow Saw Surgery Saw Pruning Saws
Left – bow saw
Top right – folding limb saw
Bottom right – surgery saw
Bow Saw
Surgery Saw
© Ron LaFond 2006

70. Chain Saws These can make short work of larger limbs
They are not intended to shear plants
Wear all of the protective gear necessary
Use the safely
Gas or electric
Chain Saws
These can make short work of larger limbs
They are not intended to shear plants
Wear all of the protective gear necessary
Use the safely
Gas or electric
© Ron LaFond 2006

71. Pole Pruners and Pole Saws
These rarely work as a combination tool
It is best to have separate pole pruners and pole saws
They are both hand powered and gas or pneumatic
The upside – they can greatly extend your reach
The downside – it can get you too far away from the work – accuracy can suffer
Pole Pruners and Pole Saws
These rarely work as a combination tool
It is best to have separate pole pruners and pole saws
They are both hand powered and gas or pneumatic
The upside – they can greatly extend your reach
The downside – it can get you too far away from the work – accuracy can suffer
© Ron LaFond 2006

72. Pole Pruners and Pole Saws
Left – pole pruner head
Center – pole saw head
Right – pneumatic pole tools
Pole Pruner Head
Pneumatic Pole Tools
Pole Saw Head
© Ron LaFond 2006

73. Power Hedge Trimmers
These should only be used on plants with small foliage and capable of quick recoveries
They can cover a large area in a short time
This type of shearing often triggers a response of adventitious shoots at the cut ends causing a thick, overgrown appearance
Power Hedge Trimmers
These should only be used on plants with small foliage and capable of quick recoveries
They can cover a large area in a short time
This type of shearing often triggers a response of adventitious shoots at the cut ends causing a thick, overgrown appearance
© Ron LaFond 2006

74. Power Hedge Trimmers
Probably one of the most misused tools in the landscape maintenance arsenal
Possession does not require use
Many times hand tools do a better job and reduce the need for constant shearing
Power Hedge Trimmers
Probably one of the most misused tools in the landscape maintenance arsenal
Possession does not require use
Many times hand tools do a better job and reduce the need for constant shearing
© Ron LaFond 2006

75. Power Hedge Trimmers
Power Hedge Trimmers
© Ron LaFond 2006

76. Maintenance of Pruning Tools
It is important to maintain all pruning equipment – manual and power
Keeping tools sharp and clean will expand their life span
Clean, sharp tools makes pruning tasks easier and safer
Maintenance of Pruning Tools
It is important to maintain all pruning equipment – manual and power
Keeping tools sharp and clean will expand their life span
Clean, sharp tools makes pruning tasks easier and safer
© Ron LaFond 2006

77. Clean Equipment Clean all equipment before storing
Remove sap build-up on pruners
Remove rust
Oil and lubricate tools before storing
When storing power tools for extended periods – run out the fuel and change the oil
Clean debris buildup that collects in power hedgers and chainsaws
Clean Equipment
Clean all equipment before storing
Remove sap build-up on pruners
Remove rust
Oil and lubricate tools before storing
When storing power tools for extended periods – run out the fuel and change the oil
Clean debris buildup that collects in power hedgers and chainsaws
© Ron LaFond 2006

78. Sharp Equipment
It’s always best to go into a pruning job with sharp tools
Files, sharpening stones and grinders can be used to maintain a cutting tools edge
Find what works best for you and the specific tools
Learn to sharpen your power hedge trimmers and chainsaws
Sharp Equipment
It’s always best to go into a pruning job with sharp tools
Files, sharpening stones and grinders can be used to maintain a cutting tools edge
Find what works best for you and the specific tools
Learn to sharpen your power hedge trimmers and chainsaws
© Ron LaFond 2006

79. Lubricants Keep pruning tools well oiled – to keep them working freely
Keep power trimmers and chainsaws well lubricated – to reduce “freezing-up”
Use the proper fuels and fuel-oil mixtures
Equipment that works well is usually safer to handle
Lubricants
Keep pruning tools well oiled – to keep them working freely
Keep power trimmers and chainsaws well lubricated – to reduce “freezing-up”
Use the proper fuels and fuel-oil mixtures
Equipment that works well is usually safer to handle
© Ron LaFond 2006