1. TEXTILE INDUSTRY AND ENVIRONMENT W.J.K.Dushyanthi Ranpatige Research Officer Industrial Technology Institute

2. The textile industry One of the major contributors to many Asian economies and one of the main revenue- generating sectors. Has grown over the past years to become primary export earner and largest single employer of the manufacturing industry in Sri Lanka

3. The textile industry Comprised of a diverse, fragmented group of establishments that produce and or process textile-related products (fiber, yarn, fabric) for further processing into apparel, home furnishings, and industrial goods. Receive and prepare fibers; transform fibers into yarn, thread, or webbing; convert the yarn into fabric or related products; and dye and finish these materials at various stages of production

4. The textile industry Environmental issues – Wastewater – Emission to air – Energy consumption – Solid and liquid waste – Hazardous material management

5. Industry-specific wastewater effluents are related to wet operations Pollutants in textile effluents – suspended solids – mineral oils (e.g. antifoaming agents, grease, spinning lubricants) – non-biodegradable or low biodegradable surfactants [alkylphenol ethoxylates APEO, nonylphenol ethoxylates], – other organic compounds including phenols from wet finishing processes (e.g. dyeing), – halogenated organics from solvent use in bleaching. – Effluent streams from dyeing processes are typically hot and colored and may contain significant concentrations of heavy metals (e.g. chromium, copper, zinc, lead, or nickel).

6. Industrial process wastewater from natural fiber processing May contain pesticides used in pre-finishing processes (e.g. cotton growing and animal fiber production), potential microbiological pollutants (e.g. bacteria, fungi, and other pathogens) Other contaminants (e.g. dye, tar).

7. Scouring: Fiber (especially wool) scouring involves the use of hot water and detergents to remove soil, vegetable impurities, grease (lanolin) and d other contaminants from fibers. – Scouring with alkali breaks down natural oils and surfactants and suspends impurities in the bath. – The scouring effluent is strongly alkaline, and a significant portion of BOD5 and COD loads from textile manufacturing arises from scouring processes.

8. Finishing operations: Wet processing or finishing processes – include the main processes of fabric preparation, namely desizing, bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing, printing, and other specific treatments. – These phases treat fabrics with chemical and liquor baths and often require several washing, rinsing, and drying steps, – generates significant wastewater effluents

9. Desizing: generates effluents with significant concentrations of organic matters and solids. – BOD 5 and COD loads from desizing may be significant (35 to 50 percent of the total load), – COD concentrations up to 20,000 mg/L may be generated

10. Bleaching: Common bleaching reagents – hydrogen peroxide, sodium hypochlorite, sodium chlorite, and sulfur dioxide gas. – Hydrogen peroxide is the most commonly used bleaching agent for cotton and is typically used with alkali solutions. – The use of chlorine-based bleaches may produce organic halogens (due to secondary reactions) and cause significant concentrations of absorbable organic halogens (AO X )

11. Mercerizing: cotton fiber reacts with a solution of caustic soda, and a hot-water wash treatment removes the caustic solution from the fiber. – The caustic solution remaining on the fiber is neutralized with acid, followed by a number of rinses to remove the acid. – Wastewater from mercerizing is highly alkaline, since it contains caustic soda.

12. Dyeing: wastewater may contain – colour pigments – halogens (especially in vat, disperse, and reactive dyes) – metals(e.g. copper, chromium, zinc, cobalt, and nickel) – amines (produced by azo dyes under reducing conditions) in spent dyes – other chemicals used as auxiliaries in dye formulation (e.g. dispersing and antifoaming agents) and in the dyeing process (e.g. alkalis, salts, and reducing / oxidizing agents). effluents are characterized by relatively high BOD and COD values ( commonly above 5,000 mg/l). Salt concentration (e.g. from reactive dye use) may range between 2,000 and 3,000 ppm 7

14. Printing: – color concentrates pigments (insoluble particles) or dyes – solvents and binder resins. – Organic solvents are used exclusively with pigments. – De-foamers and resins aimed at increasing color fastness.

15. Process Wastewater Treatment wastewater treatment may require the use of unit operations specific to the manufacturing process in use. source segregation and pretreatment of wastewater streams (i) high load (COD) streams containing non- biodegradable compounds using chemical oxidation (ii) reduction in heavy metals using chemical precipitation, coagulation and flocculation, etc. (iii) treatment of highly colored or high TDS streams using reverse osmosis.

16. Typical wastewater treatment steps – grease traps, – skimmers or oil water separators for separation of floatable solids – filtration for separation of filterable solids – flow and load equalization – sedimentation for suspended solids reduction using clarifiers – biological treatment, typically aerobic treatment for reduction of soluble organic matter (BOD); biological nutrient removal for reduction in nitrogen and phosphorus – chlorination of effluent when disinfection is required – dewatering and disposal.

17. Additional engineering controls (may be required) (i) advanced metals removal using membrane filtration or other physical/chemical treatment technologies (ii) removal of recalcitrant organics, residual pesticides and halogenated organics using activated carbon or advanced chemical oxidation (iii) residual color removal using adsorption or chemical oxidation (iv) reduction in effluent toxicity using appropriate technology (such as reverse osmosis, ion exchange, activated carbon, etc.) (v) reduction in TDS in the effluent using reverse osmosis or evaporation

18. Emissions to Air – Dust occur during natural fiber and synthetic staple processing and yarn manufacturing. Fiber (especially cotton) handling and storage are sources of dust, particularly within work areas. – VOCs and Oil Mists Emissions of VOCs are related to the use of organic solvents in activities such as printing processes, fabric cleaning, wool scouring and heat treatments

19. Another source of emissions - the evaporation or thermal degradation of chemicals used on the textile materials (e.g. oil-based antifoaming agents, plasticizers, and finishing agents) Other substances with significant air emission potential -used in printing processes, including ammonia, formaldehyde, methanols and other alcohols, esters, aliphatic hydrocarbons, and several monomers.

20. Exhaust Gases – Combustion sources for power generation and process heating Odors – Odors may be generated in, particularly during dyeing and other finishing processes, and use of oils, – solvent vapors, formaldehyde, sulfur compounds, and ammonia

23. Solid Wastes include trials, selvedge, trimmings, cuttings of fabrics, and yarns; spent dyes, pigments, and printing pastes; and sludge from process wastewater

24. Regulatory requirements Regulatory Authority - Central Environmenal Authority National Environmental Act No. 47 of 1980 National Environmental (Amendment) Act, No. 56 of 1988 National Environmental (Amendment) Act, No. 56 of 1988 National Environmental (Amendment) Act, No. 53 of 2000 National Environmental (Amendment) Act, No. 53 of 2000

25. EIA Regulations National Environmental (Procedure for approval of projects) Regulations No. 1 of 1993 Gazette Notification Number 772/22 dated 24th June 1993 National Environmental (Procedure for approval of projects) Regulations No. 1 of 1993 Gazette Notification Number 772/22 dated 24th June 1993 Specifying the State Agencies which are PAAs (EIA) Gazette Notification Number 859/14 dated 23rd February 1995 Specifying the State Agencies which are PAAs (EIA) Gazette Notification Number 859/14 dated 23rd February 1995 EIA amendment - (prescribed activities) Gazette Notification Number 1104/22 dated 5th November 1999 EIA amendment - (prescribed activities) Gazette Notification Number 1104/22 dated 5th November 1999 EIA amendment. Gazette Notification Number 1108/1 dated 29th November 1999 EIA amendment. Gazette Notification Number 1108/1 dated 29th November 1999 Order made under Section 23Y - Amendments to the Prescribed Activities. Gazette Notification Number 1373/6 dated 29th December 2004 Order made under Section 23Y - Amendments to the Prescribed Activities. Gazette Notification Number 1373/6 dated 29th December 2004

26. Waste Management National Environmental (protection and quality) Regulation(EPL) -1990. Gazette Notification Number 595/16 dated 8th January 1990. (rescinded by Gazette Notification Number 1534/18 dated 01-02-2008National Environmental (protection and quality) Regulation(EPL) -1990. Gazette Notification Number 595/16 dated 8th January 1990. (rescinded by Gazette Notification Number 1534/18 dated 01-02-2008 Regulation for Prohobition of manufacture of polythene or any product of 20micron or below thickness.Gazette Notification Number 1466/5 dated 10th October 2006. Regulation for Prohobition of manufacture of polythene or any product of 20micron or below thickness.Gazette Notification Number 1466/5 dated 10th October 2006.

27. Environment Protection. National Environmental (protection and quality) Regulation(EPL) -1990. Gazette Notification Number 595/16 dated 8th January 1990. (rescinded by Gazette Notification Number 1534/18 dated 01-02-2008National Environmental (protection and quality) Regulation(EPL) -1990. Gazette Notification Number 595/16 dated 8th January 1990. (rescinded by Gazette Notification Number 1534/18 dated 01-02-2008 Amendment to National Environmental (Protection & Quality) Regulations (EPL) - 1990. Gazette Notification Number 617/7 dated 2nd July 1990. Amendment to National Environmental (Protection & Quality) Regulations (EPL) - 1990. Gazette Notification Number 617/7 dated 2nd July 1990. Gazette Notification No. 1159/16 dated 22.11.2000 (rescinded by Gazette Notification No. 1533/16 dated 25.01.2008) Gazette Notification No. 1159/16 dated 22.11.2000 (rescinded by Gazette Notification No. 1533/16 dated 25.01.2008) Gazette Notification No. 1533/16 dated 25.01.2008 Gazette Notification No. 1534/18 dated 01.02.2008

28. Air quality/ Noise Ozone Depleting substances and Natural Environmental (Ambient Air Quality) Regulations 1994. Gazette Notification Number 850/4 dated 20th December 1994. Ozone Depleting substances and Natural Environmental (Ambient Air Quality) Regulations 1994. Gazette Notification Number 850/4 dated 20th December 1994. Amendment to National Environment (ambient air quality) Regulation 1994. Gazette Notification Number 1562/22 dated 15th August 2008. Amendment to National Environment (ambient air quality) Regulation 1994. Gazette Notification Number 1562/22 dated 15th August 2008. Amendment to Gazette Notification Number 1295/11 dated 30th June 2003.Gazette Notification Number 1557/14 dated 19th July 2008. Amendment to Gazette Notification Number 1295/11 dated 30th June 2003.Gazette Notification Number 1557/14 dated 19th July 2008. National Environmental (Noise Control) Regulations 1996. Gazette Notification Number 924/12 dated 23rd May 1996. National Environmental (Noise Control) Regulations 1996. Gazette Notification Number 924/12 dated 23rd May 1996. Regulation published under Section 23W. Gazette Notification Number 1309/20 dated 10t October 2003 Regulation published under Section 23W. Gazette Notification Number 1309/20 dated 10t October 2003