1. Milady Standard Cosmetology
Chemical Texture Services

2. The Structure of Hair Cuticle: Tough exterior layer of hair.
Cortex: Middle layer of hair.
Medulla: Innermost layer of the hair, often called pith or core of the hair.

3. The Structure of Hair Importance of pH in Texture Services
pH scale: Measures acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains.
Natural pH of hair is between 4.5 and 5.5.
Chemical texturizers: Raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to soften and swell the hair shaft.

4. The Structure of Hair Basic Building Blocks of Hair
Amino acids
Peptide bonds (end bonds)
Polypeptide chains
Keratin proteins

5. The Structure of Hair Basic Building Blocks of Hair
Side bonds
Disulfide bonds
Salt bonds
Hydrogen bonds

6. Permanent Waving
Permanent waving: Two-step process whereby hair undergoes a physical change chemical change.
Always perform an elasticity test before perming hair.

7. Permanent Waving Perm Wrap
Perm wrap: Wet set on perm rods instead of rollers.
Shape and type of curl are determined by shape and type of rod and wrapping method used.

8. Permanent Waving Types of Rods
Concave rod
Straight rod
Soft bender rod
Loop rod (circle rod)

9. Permanent Waving End Papers
End papers: Also end wraps; absorbent papers used to control ends of hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods.
Double flat wrap
Single flat wrap
Bookend wrap

10. Permanent Waving Sectioning for a Perm
All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into panels.
Base sections: Subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping.

11. Permanent Waving Base Placement
Base placement: Refers to position of rod in relation to its base section.
On-base placement
Half off-base placement
Off-base placement

12. Permanent Waving Base Direction
Base direction: Refers to angle at which rod is positioned on head: horizontally, vertically, or diagonally.

13. Permanent Waving Wrapping Techniques
Croquignole perm wrap
Spiral perm wrap
Double-rod wrap (piggyback wrap)

14. Permanent Waving The Chemistry of Permanent Waving
Alkaline permanent waving solutions soften and swell the hair, opening cuticle and permitting solution to penetrate into cortex.

15. Permanent Waving Reduction Reaction
In the cortex, waving solution breaks disulfide bonds through reduction.
Reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of hydrogen.
Thioglycolic acid: Most common reducing agent in permanent wave solutions.
Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG): Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.

16. Permanent Waving Types of Permanent Waves
Alkaline waves or cold waves
Acid waves
True acid waves
Acid-balanced waves
Exothermic waves
Endothermic waves
Ammonia-free waves
Thio-free waves
Low-pH waves

17. Permanent Waving Selecting the Right Type of Perm
Overprocessed hair
Underprocessed hair
Thio neutralization: Stops action of waving solution and rebuilds hair into its new curly form.

18. Permanent Waving Permanent Waving Procedures
Preliminary test curls
Wrapping patterns
Basic permanent wrap (straight set wrap)
Curvature permanent wrap
Bricklay permanent wrap
Weave technique
Partial perms

19. Permanent Waving Perms for Men/Safety Precautions for Permanent Waving
Male clients are looking for the texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance a perm provides.
Perm safety
Protect client’s clothing.
Do not give to clients who have had allergic reactions.
Examine scalp before service.
Do not perm damaged or relaxed hair.

20. Permanent Waving Safety Precautions/Metallic Salts
Perm safety (cont.)
Test for metallic salts.
Use a barrier cream.
Follow manufacturer’s guidelines.
Keep waving lotion away from client’s eyes.
Wear gloves.
Do not safe leftover solutions.
Some home haircoloring products contain metallic salts that are not compatible with permanent waving.
Test for metallic salts before perming.

21. Chemical Hair Relaxers Extremely Curly Hair
Chemical hair relaxing: Process or service that rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form.
Extremely curly hair grows in long twisted spirals, or coils.

22. Chemical Hair Relaxers Thio Relaxers/Japanese Thermal Straighteners
Thio relaxers: Use same ATG used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and higher pH.
Japanese thermal straighteners: Also thermal reconditioning or TR; combines use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing.

23. Chemical Hair Relaxers Hydroxide Relaxers
Hydroxide relaxers: Very strong alkalis with a pH over 13.
Lanthionization: Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair.
Types:
Metal hydroxide relaxers
Lye-based relaxers
No-lye relaxers

24. Chemical Hair Relaxers Low-pH Relaxers/Base and No-Base Relaxers
Sulfites and bisulfites are sometimes used as low-pH hair relaxers.
Base cream: Also protective base cream; oily cream used to protect skin and scalp during hair relaxing.
Base relaxers: Require application of protective base cream to entire scalp prior to application of relaxer.
No-base relaxers: Do not require application of protective base cream.

25. Chemical Hair Relaxers Relaxer Strengths
Chemical hair relaxers are available in three strengths: mild, regular, and super.
Periodic strand testing during processing will help you tell when the hair is sufficiently relaxed.

26. Chemical Hair Relaxers Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures
Virgin relaxer application: Used for hair that has not had previous chemical texture services.
Retouch relaxer application: Used for hair that has had previous chemical texture services.
Texturizing or retexturizing service: Uses a hydroxide relaxer to reduce curl pattern by degrees.
Normalizing lotions: Conditioners that restore hair’s natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer.

27. Chemical Hair Relaxers Keratin Straightening Treatments
Keratin straightening treatments: Contain silicone polymers and formalin, or similar ingredients, which release formaldehyde gas when heated to high temperatures.
Eliminate up to 95 percent of frizz and curl and last three to five months.
Not usually appropriate for extremely curly, tightly coiled hair.

28. Curl Re-Forming (Soft Curl Permanents) Safety Precautions for Hair Relaxing and Curl Re-Forming
Soft curl permanent: Combination of thio relaxer and thio permanent wrapped on large rods to make existing curl larger and looser.
Safety:
Perform a consultation and hair analysis.
Examine the scalp for abrasions.
Keep accurate client records.
Have client sign a release.
Do not apply hydroxide relaxer on hair previously treated with a thio relaxer.

29. Curl Re-Forming (Soft Curl Permanents) Safety Precautions
Safety (cont.)
Do not apply thio relaxer or soft curl perm on hair that has been treated with hydroxide relaxer.
Do not chemically relax hair that has been treated with a metallic dye.
Do not relax damaged hair.
Do not shampoo prior to application of hydroxide relaxer (scalp must be dry).
Apply protective base cream.
Wear gloves.
Protect client’s eyes.
Perform strand tests.
Avoid scratching the scalp.
Do not attempt to remove more than 80 percent of natural curl.
Thoroughly rinse chemical relaxer from hair.
Use normalizing lotion and neutralizing shampoo.
Use conditioner and wide-tooth comb.
Do not use hot irons or excessive heat on chemically relaxed hair.