1. Haircolor and corrective coloring
Special Problems
Haircolor and corrective coloring

2. Special Problems
Each service is unique and should be preceded by a complete client consultation.
Strand tests should be used to ensure more satisfactory results
However, occasionally challenges do occur in haircolor.
Let’s take a look at a few you might encounter

3. Corrective coloring Gray hair: challenges & solutions
Gray hair can turn orange if lightener is not processed long enough
When using the N series add gold to the formula
Yellow discoloration causes
Smoking
Medication
Sun exposure
Some styling aids
Lighteners & tint removers will help remove yellow discoloration
Undesired yellow can often be overpowered by the artificial pigments deposited by violet-based colors of an equal or darker level than the yellow

4. Corrective coloring Formulating for gray hair
Level 9 or lighter may not give complete coverage of gray
Lighter shades have a small percentage of artificial pigment
Level 6,7,or 8 can be used to create pastel & blonde tones
For 80% to 100% natural gray, the blonde range is generally more flattering than a darker shade
Warm or cool tones may be chosen based on the client’s skin tone, eye color, & personal preference
When coloring salt & pepper hair to darker, color on color will make a darker color
Use a shade lighter than the naturally dark hair

5. Corrective coloring
Semi-permanent/demi-permanent color formulation for gray
% of Gray Formulation
90% - 100% desired level
70% - 90% equal parts desired & 1 level lighter
50% - 70% level lighter than desired level
30% equal parts 1 level lighter & 2 levels lighter

6. Corrective coloring Permanent color formulation for gray hair
% of Gray hair Formulation
90% - 100% desired level
70% - 90% parts desired level & 1 part lighter level
50% - 70% equal parts desired & lighter level
30% - 50% parts lighter level & 1 part desired level
10% - 30% level lighter

7. Corrective coloring
Other considerations when formulating for gray hair
Client personality
Personal preferences
Amount & location of gray hair
If the majority of the client’s gray hair is located in the front, that section may be 80% gray or unpigmented while the remainder of the head may be only 30% unpigmented

8. Presoftening
Gray hair can be highly resistance & required presoftening to allow proper penetration of color
This is a double-application service
It is applied, processed & removed
Then tint is applied

9. Presoftening Mix product according to manufacturer’s directions
Apply w/ brush or bottle in most resistant areas first
Process at room temperature for 5 to 20 minutes
Wipe color gently w/ cloth or paper towel to remove
Apply desired level & tone of color to achieve desired results
Follow established procedures for color application

10. Rules for Effective Color Correction
DO NOT PANIC
Establish the true problem
Establish the cause of problem
Establish a suitable remedy
Take one step at a time
Never guarantee exact results
Always strand test for accuracy

11. Damaged Hair Characteristics
Rough texture
Overporous condition
Brittle & dry to touch
Susceptible to breakage
No elasticity
Becomes spongy & matted when wet
Color fades or absorbs too rapidly

12. Damaged Hair Treatments
Use penetrating conditioner
Purpose is to deposit protein, oils & moisture-rich ingredients
Normalize pH w/ a finishing rinse
This is done after chemical services to restore cuticle’s protective capacity
If hair is unresponsive after conditioning treatments, postpone further chemical services
Schedule client for between-service conditioning
Recommend retail products for home maintenance

13. Fillers
Specialized preparations designed to help equalize porosity & deposit base color in one application
Two types
Conditioner fillers
Used to recondition damaged, overly porous hair
Can be applied in separate procedure or immediately prior to color application
Color fillers
May be demipermanent color used when there is doubt as to even color results

14. Color Filler Advantages
Deposits color to faded ends
Helps hair hold color
Prevents streaking & dull appearance
Prevents off-color results
Produces more uniform, natural-looking color in a tint
Produces more uniform color when doing a tint back

15. Selecting correct color filler
Select to replace missing primary color in the formulation
All three primaries ( red, blue & yellow ) must be present for natural-looking hair color
May be applied directly to hair or mixed with tint and applied to damaged ends

16. Fading Reds Fading is common with color-treated red hair
Use lower volume of hydrogen peroxide
Prelighten before tint application
This is useful when warmer or brighter ( red-orange or gold ) reds are desired on darker natural levels
Retouching w/ red-based tint may require two formulas
1st formula for the new growth is to create the correct amount of lift & that may be too much lift for the mid-shaft and ends
2nd formula w/ deposit only hair color product may be applied mid-shaft to ends
STRAND TESTING WILL AID IN ACHIEVING CORRECT RESULTS

17. Brassiness / unwanted tones
Analyze brassiness first
Are the brassy tones red yellow, orange?
Locate that particular shade on the color wheel & use the complementary color to neutralize it
This can be done w/ temporary rinses, soap caps during retouches, fillers, & semi permanent or demi permanent color

18. Tint removal
Sometimes there is enough buildup of color on the hair that removal of all or part of it may be necessary to achieve the desired color
Professional products may contain ingredients to diffuses pigment, both natural & artificial
They are sometimes mixed w/ hydrogen peroxide
Some are mixed w/ distilled water when milder products are needed
Always follow individual manufacture’s direction.
Never leave client unattended during any chemical service

19. Tint back to natural
Porosity must be evened out to achieve color correction
Created warmth to prevent drab, unnatural-looking color
Demipermanent, deposit-only color is a great choice
Soap cap
This is a combination of equal parts of prepared tint and shampoo
It is applied like regular shampoo
Used in conjunction w/ tint back to natural if tint does not exactly match natural color
Will break line of demarcation
Patch test must be used 24 hrs. prior to service
If negative, proceed
Recommend salon retail products for home use

20. Summary
Consultation & strands test results are important to you and the client for professional haircoloring for quality results.
In corrective hair color it’s important to remember such factors as porosity, foundation color, location of unpigmented hair, condition of hair & desired results