1. Lecture 13
Single Knit Machines (plain)

2. Main Products Single Jersey Pique Locast Honey comb Pique fleece
Two thread fleece
Feed stripes

3. Single Knit Machine Working
Single bed of needle
Only cylinders
Needles and sinkers
High speed
Wider width
Most common
Easy to handle

4. Double Knit Machines Cylinder and Dial Two bed of needles No sinker
Double side knitting

5. Sub types
Interlock
Rib
Double jersey (interchangeable)

6. Interlock Highly flexible fabric Can adopt any body shape
Used for under garments
Soft hand feel

7. Rib More strength For grip purposes
Used at neck, arm opening, waist band
Always heavier than main fabric

8. Stripes
Feed stripes
Engineered stripes

9. Terry
To have towel effect
Velour fabric

10. Loop Knitting
Fleece
Two thread fleece
Three thread fleece

11. Jacquard
Mostly double knit machines
Electronic
Mechanical

12. Lecture 14
Single Knitting Machines
Single jersey
Fleece
Terry
Stripes

13. Jersey Knitting Jersey Fabric Jersey Stitch
The consistent interlooping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produces a fabric with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but uniform back. Jersey fabrics may be produced on either circular or flat weft knitting machines.
Jersey Stitch
A basic stitch used in weft knitting, in which each loop formed in the knit is identical. The jersey stitch is also called the plain, felt, or stockinet stitch.

16. Single Jersey 30"/E22
Yarn:
Cotton 34/1 Nm
Fabric weight:
150 g/m2
Efficiency:
85%
Speed:
up to 50 rpm
Production:
204 m/h kg/h

17. Lecture 15 Fleece Fabric A fabric made by sheep wool, soft warm
A fabric soft , warm bulky
Generally used to:
Protection from cold
Sweat absorption (sweat shirt)
Baby clothes

18. Fleece ---
A fabric knitted with two types of yarn. Fine yarn is on front side and course yarn on back side. In most of cases fine yarn is 100% cotton while course yarn is P/C 50:50
Normal combination and fiber ratio:
30/16, 20/10, 26/12 etc
PC/C, C/PC

19. Types of Fleece
Two thread fleece
Three Thread Fleece

20. Two thread Fleece Very rare
Was popular when three thread fleece were not common
Generally not liked due to impassion of course yarn on front side
Low quality product

21. Made on single jersey machines
Maximum medium weight, since very course yarn difficult to use
Long loop is difficult

22. Cam Arrangement
On Fleece fabric.doc three needle track machine:

23. CHARACTERISTICS OF TWO THEAD FLEECE
Light to medium weight
Double impact on front side, particularly in case of different fibers
No good brushing possible due to short length of loop

24. Three Thread Fleece Made on fleece machines
High grammage is possible( 500 GSM)
High brushing due to long loop on back side
Maximum course yarn is possible ( up to 10 count) on back side
Very common in use
Fleece machine guage is 16 or 18

25. Yarn
C/PC
PC/C
30/16, 22/12/ 20/10

26. Fiber Percentage Calculation Method Example: Front yarn 30s
100% cotton
Back yarn 16 s 50:50 P/C
Consumption ratio
Front Two kgs
Back one kg

27. Total consumption three kgs
Calculation:
front yarn 2 kgs 100 % cotton
Back yarn 1 kg ( ½ Kg polyester and ½ kg cotton
Total Cotton consumed =2.5 Kgs
Total polyester consumed ½ kg
Ratio: cotton= 2.5/3*100= 83.33%
Polyester= 0.53*100=16.66%
Such ratio is normally called 80:20 Fleece

28. Main characteristics of Three
Highly absorbent
High weight is possible
Can use entirely different yarn on both sides( even dyed yarn)
Pattern is possible ( diagonal stripes etc)
Very common in use

29. Fleece problems and their remedies
Uneven loop – control yarn supply
Loop stretch– control cam tension
Needle line on front side
Wales thickness variation on front side due to fluff contamination between the needles, needs regular cleaning, more cleaning is required due to course yarn

30. Poor brushing–due to high TPI yarn– use low TPI
Dyeing variation due to different percentage of yarn… calculate exact % by using Skelton test
Steak problem after dyeing due to heavy weight fabric--- use anti creasing agents in dyeing

31. High shrinkage --- use compactor or tumble dryers

32. Other types of fleece
Sherpa fleece --- brushed and washed to get balls
Polar fleece ---- loops on both sides also brushed on both side

33. Double Face loop Knitting

37. Loop knits
Terry fabric to knitted terry towel