1. Shaving

2. Backhand Stroke: Razor position and stroke used in 4 of the 14 basic shaving areas 2,6,8 and 9
Close Shave: The procedure of shaving facial hair against the grain during the second-time-over
Cutting Stroke: The correct angle of cutting the beard with a straight razor
Freehand Stroke: Razor position and stroke used in 6 of the 14 shaving areas 1,3,4,7,11, and 12
Neck Shave: Shaving the areas behind the ears, down the sides of the neck and at the back neckline

3. Once-over Shave: Single lather shave in which the shaving strokes are made across the grain of hair
Reverse Backhand Stroke: Razor position and stroke used for making the left sideburn outline and shaving the left side behind the ear during a neck shave
Reverse Freehand Stroke: Razor position and stoke used in 4 of the 14 basic shaving areas 5, 10, 13, and 14
Second-time-over-shave: A close shave
Styptic powder: alum powder used to stop bleeding of nicks and cuts

4. History Shaving was introduced by Macedonians during the middle ages
Barbers were know as Barber surgeons
Symbol of barber pole – Red = blood, blue = veins, white = bandages & the bottom symbolizes the basin used to catch the blood during a process known as bloodletting
Barber is derived from the Latin word “barba” meaning beard

5. Implements
Implements should always be of superior quality, the barber is no better than the tools he or she uses
Principle implements used: razor, shears, clippers
Accessories: hones, strops, combs, brushes and latherizers

6. Parts of the straight razor

7. Balance of the Razor
Refers to the relative weight of the blade as it relates to the handle
Proper balance – the weight of the blade should = that of the handle

8. Temper
Refers to the heat treatment given by the manufacturer which gives the blade a certain degree of hardness
Hard – hold an edge longest but is very difficult to sharpen
Soft – easy to sharpen but does not hold edge very long
Medium – most popular choice

9. size Refers to the length and width of the blade
The width is measured in eights or sixteenths of an inch (most generally in 8ths)
The 5/8 and 9/16 are the two most common sizes

10. Style The style indicates its shape and design
The modern razor has a straight, parallel back and edge, a round heal, a square point, a flat or slightly round handle
To prevent scratching the skin the barber usually rounds off the square point, by drawing the point of the razor along the edge of the hone

11. Refers to the shape of the blade after it is ground by the mfr.
Grind
Refers to the shape of the blade after it is ground by the mfr.
2 types =
Concave – which comes in full, ½ and ½ concave
Wedge – good for coarse beards, hard to sharpen
Concave is most preferred

12. Finish
The condition of the surface
3 types=
Plain steel
Polished steel
Metal plated (nickel or silver)
Most popular is polished steel (crocus) lasts longest & doesn’t rust

13. Hones
A hone is a rectangular block of abrasive material used to sharpen a razor
3 types of hones:
Natural hone- derived from rock deposits. They must be used wet (water or lather) they are called “water hones” they put a very sharp edge on the razor and are usually brownish in color
Synthetic hone – man made product; there are 2 types “Swatty” & “Carborundum”. They cut faster than water hones, can be used wet or dry. They give a fine cutting edge quickly
Combination hones – 2 sided; natural hone is glued to a block of synthetic. The synthetic would be used first & the natural last

14. Care of hones Always clean before and after use with 70% alcohol
After several uses the steel particles must be cleaned from the surface using pumice stone and water

15. How to hone
A razor is honed on the block using a figure 8 motion

16. Strops/ stropping
A strop is intended to bring the razor to a smooth wetted edge. It is used to finish the surface of the blade after it has been sharpened
Stropping is the art of smoothing and shaping the razor’s edge into a keen cutting implement
There are 5 types of strops

17. 1.French or German Strop
Usually a combination strop w/ leather on 1 side and a linen on the other

18. 2. Canvas
Made with a high quality silk or linen woven into a fine or coarse texture
Fine texture linen is most preferred for putting a lasting edge on the razor

19. 3.Cowhide
Aka – Russian
Usually made of cowhide using the Russian method of tanning
Considered one of the best in use today

20. 4.horeshide
2 types
A- ordinary horsehide – medium grade and has a fine smooth grain – not recommended for professional use
B- Russian shell – high quality leather from the rump of the animal; this is considered the best and does not require breaking in

21. Imitation leather
Has not proven satisfactory – avoid this strop

22. Care of strop Must not be folded or bent Should be hung
They can be treated and cleaned with strop dressing
Accumulated grit should first be removed by rubbing with lather
After later, rub the strop dressing into the strop

23. Use of strop First stroke:
Start stroke at the top edge of the strop closest to the chair
Draw the razor perfectly flat with back leading straight over the surface of the strop
Bear just heavily enough on the strop to feel the razor draw
Speed will come with practice

24. Use of strop cont’d Second stroke:
turn the razor on the back of the blade by rolling it in the fingers without turning the hand
Use a long diagonal stroke with even pressure from the heel to the point
Draw the razor away from you towards the chair

25. Testing of the razor On a moistened tip of thumb nail draw the razor
A dull edge produces a drawing feeling
A properly edged razor that is keen will tend to stick and not slide along
If the edge produces a disagreeable sound it is too course and requires extra stropping
A properly edged razor should dig into the nail with a smooth and steady grip

26. The shave Is classified into 3 sections: The preparation The procedure
The finish

27. Preparation
Sanitize hands
Drape Client

28. procedure Apply Hot Towel Open and sanitize razor
Apply shaving cream using cushion of fingertips in a rotary movement
Shave the 14 areas using the correct strokes
Hot/cold towel
Apply astringent
Apply talc using mitt application

29. finish
Remove towels and drape
Clean up work station
Comb clients hair

30. Lathering – is a very important step prior to shaving because:
Cleans the face by dislodging dirt
Softens the hair and holds it in an erect position
Affords a smooth, flat surface for the razor to glide over
Rub lather briskly into bearded area using rotary movements with the cushion of the fingertips (one hand only)

31. Steaming
Softens the cuticle of the hair
Provides lubrication by stimulating the action of the oil glands
Opens the follicle to allow for a closer shave
Sooths and relaxes the client
Never apply a steam towel (or shave) if face is sensitive, irritated, chapped, blistered or covered with acne

32. 4 Standard shaving positions & strokes
Freehand – face your client, stroke toward yourself #1,3,4,8,11,12
Backhand – stroke away from yourself #2,6,7,9
Reverse Freehand – stand behind client & stroke toward yourself #5,10,13,14
(Reverse Backhand – used only on the left side back of neck )

33. Ingrown Hairs
Hairs that have grown beneath the skin causing a lump in which pus forms. Usually caused by very close shaving or the rubbing of a shirt collar
Curly hair people are more prone to ingrown hairs

34. How to make a powder mitt