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UV GELS Chapter 29
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Introduction UV gels enhancements rely on ingredients from the acrylic family Wrap resins – subcategory called “cyanacrylics” Monomer liquid/polymer powder nail enhancements are from the same category called “methacrylate” UV gels contain monomers – related form called “oligomer”
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“mono” meaning “one” “poly” meaning “many” “oligo” meaning “few” Oligomer is a short chain of monomers not long enough to be considered a polymer Monomers are liquid Polymers are solids Oligomers are in between – thick, gel-like, sticky
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Traditionally – urethane acrylate Newer – urethane methacrylates
UV gels Easy to apply File Maintain Not as durable as methacrylate enhancements
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Application process differs
Nail plate is properly prepared Each layer of product applied requires exposure to UV light to cure or harden Special lamp designed to emit proper type of UV light
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One-color method Two-color-method One color applied to entire nail
two colors applied Usually pink and white
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Types of UV Gels UV Bonding Gels UV Building Gels
Increase adhesion to natural nail plate Vary in consistency and chemical components No strong odor UV Building Gels Thick-viscosity resin Allows building of arch and curve to nail Great for repairing cracks and breaks
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Pigmented UV Gels UV Gel Polish Building & self leveling gels
Two-color method Usually pink & white Thinner UV Gel Polish Very thin viscosity Packaged in a pot or bottle Cure in UV lamp Do not require drying time
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UV Gloss Gel Wide array of colors
Sealing gel, finishing gel, shine gel Creates a high shine Inhibition layer – is a tacky surface left on the nail after a UV gel has cured 2 types – traditional & Tack-free gloss gels Wide array of colors Opacity – amount of colored pigment concentration in a gel, making it more or less difficult to see through
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Application of UV Gel Nail Enhancements/ Supplies
UV gel lamps Designed to produce the correct amount of UV light needed to cure products UV gel products packaged in opaque pots or squeeze tubes to avoid exposure to UV light (sunlight, tanning beds) “Full spectrum bulbs” and “true color” Shelf life may be shortened and harden on containers
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Use the lamp designed for the UV Gels product
Wattage Measure of how much electricity the bulb consumes Use the lamp designed for the UV Gels product Greater chance of success and fewer problems
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UV light bulbs Stay blue for years
After a few months of use they may produce too little UV light to properly cure enhancement Bulbs must be changed 2 – 3 times per year If not changed regularly – Service breakdown Skin irritation/sensitivity
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Brush Synthetic bristles Small Flat square
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UV Gel Primer Improve adhesion to natural plate Follow mfg directions
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Nail tips Use recommended tips for use with Gel products
Heed all precautions and recommendations
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Nail Dehydrator Removes surface moisture and oil Both block adhesion
Prevents lifting
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Nail Adhesive Select type best suited for work you are doing
Buy in small quantities Shelf life of 6 months or less Prolong shelf life Close cap tightly Store at 60° – 85° F
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Abrasive Files & Buffers
Medium abrasive – 180 – 240 grit Natural nail preparation Medium fine grit 240 grit smoothing Fine buffer 350 grit or higher finishing High shine buffer – no polish is to be worn
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UV Gel Application Pre-service
Complete preservice sanitation and disinfection procedures (Ch. 25) Wash implements Rinse implements Immerse implements Wash hands with liquid soap Rinse and dry implements Prepare work station with everything you need at your fingertips
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Greet client with a smile
If first appointment, perform a consultation If return visit, perform consultation – record responses and observations
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Light-cured Gel Application
Pages 935 – 938 – One color method Pages 939 – 941 – Two-color method
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UV Gel Application Post-service
Make another appointment Take-home product recommendation Clean up around table Clean brush Discard used materials Clean table - clean and disinfect implements and multiuse tools
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UV Gel Application over Forms
Pages –
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Maintenance and Removal of UV Gel Enhancements
PP Rebalances every weeks Use medium abrasive file (180 – 240 grit) Thin and shape nail enhancement Be careful to not damage the natural nail plate with the abrasive
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Removing UV Gel Nail Enhancements
946 – 947, 950, 952 Read & follow mfg. directions Removed quickly by reducing thickness with medium coarse file (120 – 180 grit) before soaking Once begins to soften Gently scrape it from nail plate Use wooden pusher
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Follow with gentle buffing of natural nail plate using fine buffer (350 grit or higher)
Condition surrounding skin with nail oil/lotion
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Application of UV Gel over Forms
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UV Gel over Monomer Liquid & Polymer Powder Nail Enhancements with UV Gel Polish
PP
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