1. Engine Overhaul
Chevy 350

2. Remove Engine
Place engine securely on an engine stand

3. Remove Accessories
Remember to take photos- bag and label the parts and fasteners

4. Remove Intake and Valve train Components
Label the pushrods – this is to identify if you find a bent one later
to look at the other parts for that cylinder.

5. Remover Cylinder Heads
The Engine’s
Identification
Number is
Found Here
Remove the head bolts in reverse sequence--- Check for damage especially
between cylinders

6. Remove Lifters
Rotate the engine – it will pop the lifters up for easy of removal

7. Ridge Ream Each Cylinder
A ridge develops over time and must be removed to allow the piston to be removed

8. Remove all Ridges
Two wrenches opposite of each other give you good control

9. Remove Oil Pan and Inspect
Mark the main
and rod caps
for reinstallation
Use number and
Letter sets 1 3 2 4
This is a four-bolt main – Pay attention to the oil pickup screen, look for debris

10. Remove Gaskets and Scrape Away Crud
Wiggle out the oil dipstick tube, it will be damaged if you don’t.

11. Remove Balancer and Front Cover
Loosen the
Main Bolts
In Reverse
Sequence
Remove Timing
Gears and Chain
Toss Them
Remove the Harmonic balancer with the proper tool or you will damage it.

12. Remove Pistons and Main Caps
Tap the pistons out with a plastic hammer– tap the mains from front to back to loosen

13. Remove Crank and Camshaft
Knock out the
Freeze plugs
Clean out water Jacket
holes

14. Remove Camshaft Bearings
You need a specific tool for this– clean out all bolt holes with a tap

15. Clean the Internal Area
Especially the oil galleries

16. Clean Out Lifter Area
A long rod tipper with a rag soaked in cleaner works well for areas you can’t get your hand

17. Inspect Cylinder heads
Check everywhere, the heads are very prone to cracks and damage.

18. Cracks- You Don’t Want To See This

19. Clean the Heads
A power brush works well and inspect head for cracks again, cover and plug
the ports and valves if you don’t rebuild the heads. (why wouldn’t you?)

20. Spring Tool and Valve Tool
You will need to measure spring
Tension and height

21. Cylinder Head Disassembly
Use a “C” valve tool to remove valves—Keep everything in order

22. Inspect Valve, Springs, and Rotator

23. Inspect For Cracks
Check Here

24. Valve Grinding
This resurfaces the
valve angle

25. Cut & Check Valve Seat Use Prussian Blue to check the contact between
valve and seat

26. Valve Angles
Seat
45 degrees
15 degrees
60 degrees

27. Clean and Inspect Pistons
At times you can reuse pistons, replacing them will improve the rebuild

28. Clean and Inspect the Entire Engine

29. Preparation for Painting

30. Acquire a Rebuild Kit
This kit is a Mater rebuild kit complete with the crank rods and pistons.
You can get a rebuild kits without these items or smaller camshaft and valve train kits

31. Paint Heads
Cover valve area and block ports

32. Paint Block
Cover internal parts, you don’t need to paint where the oil will be, use high heat paint

33. Measure, Measure, Measure
Measuring throughout the rebuild process will insure you buy the necessary items

34. Install Camshaft
Take care with the cam and it’s bearings when installing. Over lube this as you install.

35. Install Lifters
Lube the lifters heavily

36. Measure Ring Gap
This gap needs to be precise, file the gap to specs

37. Install and Bolt Main Caps
Make sure you
line up the oils hole
for the bearings
You will want to confirm the inside diameter is correct and round

38. Bolt and Torque Crank Over lube Everything Use Assembly Grease Install
Freeze Plugs
Use specifications and sequence for this and anything else in engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

39. Fit the Ring
Protect the rod
Use wood in the vise

40. Lube the Rod Bearings
Oil the rings
Use engine oil
Use assembly grease

41. Prep Pistons for Installation
Align the ring gaps---in thirds

42. Install Pistons Use a ring Compressing tool Use a plastic hammer
handle
Install pistons
one at a time
and torque to
specs

43. Installing Timing Chain
Mark the aligning
Points with white out
And align them for
proper gear timing

44. Clean and Prep the Cylinder Heads
Some people send
the heads out to
be reworked,
or buy replacement
heads

45. Bolt and Torque the Heads
Use Specs and
Sequence
Make sure you keep
the gaskets aligned

46. Install Rockers and Pushrods
Use plenty of lube, this is the last area that gets oil on startup

47. Adjust Rockers Arms
Adjust the slack out, turn the rod in your fingers and turn adjuster until the rod stops spinning
Don’t over do this.

48. Prepare the Front Cover
Check the timing marks again just to make sure. Use a little extra sealer in the corners.

49. Install Front Cover Lube seal as you place the cover over the crank
Use specs

50. Install Harmonic Balancer
Use specs

51. Prep For Intake Manifold
Use a good sealer here to help the intake seal. Take care to keep gasket aligned

52. Place the Gaskets Use a little extra sealer in the corners
Use a good sealer here to help the intake seal. Take care to keep gasket aligned

53. Install intake and Distributor
You can wait for the distributor until later, if so covet the openings in the intake!!!!

54. Install Oil Pump and Filter
You need
To adjust
The screen.
How?
Install the oil
dipstick

55. Wires Now or Later

56. Wire Looms are Important
You may wait until
exhaust is installed

57. Install Oil Pan Install a fuel pump also Use a good sealant here
Don’t turn engine
Over if carb is
installed

58. Install Accessories Carburetor Valve covers Water pump
Exhaust manifolds

59. Engine Storage Bag and oil the engine if you plan to store the engine.
Store engine in a place that is dry.
You can place it on a wood skid to recover you stand.

60. Engine Break In Lots of conflicting info out there. Mr. B way.
Spin the oil pump shaft with drill and get oil pressure in engine-replace distributor
Start engine, spot time the distributor and check for leaks and make adjustments
If no problems, run engine at idle for two minutes, the change rpms, two minutes each rpm range.
Don’t exceed four thousand rpms for the first five hundred miles. Change oil at 500 miles. Them at 2000

61. Misc.
Make sure you clean and inspect everything through the rebuild process, this will prevent you from rebuilding a cracked block for instance.
Follow the book, specs, procedures, tests, info, measurements and sequences are all critical for success.
Organization is key.
Replace all parts if you can.
Sorry to say, it is cheaper to get a “crate” engine now days- saves time, money and worry. They even have a warrantee that you can’t provide.