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Published bySimon Sparhawk Modified over 9 years ago
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Blue Jeans in Torreon
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Torreon, Coahila, Mexico
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Blue Jeans in Torreon Shifting Power: better local development? Commodity chain approach –Production, Marketing, also Social Movements, Governments Gereffi, 2001: “By focusing on the chain or organizational network as the unit of analysis, rather than the firm, interesting questions about power, governance and the dynamics of chains emerge.”
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Maquiladora Growth
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Table 1. Apparel industry indicators for Torreon /La Laguna
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Main clients for Torreon apparel exports
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Pre-Nafta Manufacturer Dominated Assembly Network in Torreon
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Post Nafta Full Package Networks in Torreon
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US¯Torreon apparel commodity chain activities and location.
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Top 10 apparel manufacturers in Torreon, Mexico ¯¯ July 2000
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Changing Labor Conditions?-upside Labor “shortages” due to need for more skilled labor High turnover- Labor wars Higher wages Upscale labels promote improved working condition New factories are often better than US apparel factories Codes of Conduct displayed (but in English!!)
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Changing Labor Conditions?-downside according to Bair and Gereffi Concentration of Ownership in few extended families Men more readily promoted to management positions Mexican Government has reduced the power of unions to a minimum Higher wages must be seen in context of 1994 devaluation of peso decline in living standards over last 5 years
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Maquila Solidarity Network Critique “Toxic Fashions” and “Blue jean blues” require toxic chemicals Mercerization: Sulphur, caustic soda, acid Tinting and Overdyes-manually crunched, rubbed and sponged Bleaching and Stonewashing: Amylase, Laccase Drying and Baking: Toxic fumes from ovens Pollution of Water Supplies
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Code Initiatives in North UK: Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) US/Europe: SA 8000 (Social Accountability 8000) US: Workers Rights Consortium (University Clothing Fair Labor Association (FLA) –Adidas-Salomon, Eddie Bauer, GEAR for Sports, Joy Athletic, Liz Claiborne, Nordstrom, Nike, Patagonia, Reebok, Phillips- Van Heusen, Polo Ralph Lauren and Zephyr Graf-X. WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production) Lower Standards
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Steps to Socially Just Production “Network of Central American Women in Solidarity with Maquila Workers” negotiate code of conduct with Nicaraguan Labor Ministry
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Torreon Chamber of Commerce http://www.torreon.gob.mx/index2.htm
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