1. Chapter 19 Treatments and Massage Creams

2. Purpose & Qualities Hydrate & condition skin during night Heavier consistency and texture than moisturizers –more emollient & active ingredients

3. Purposes & Qualities Emollient content is adjusted based on skin type –dry & mature more emollient cream is added –normal or combination skin types less emollient –oily skin little or no active emollient

4. Moisturizers Formulate to add moisture to dry skin –water-based emulsions –absorb quickly w/out leaving residue –applied at end of facial –ideal for daily use can be used as a day cream or makeup base –available for various skin types

5. Moisturizers –contain ingredients to help retain water w/ the skin’s surface layers may also contain emollients depending on skin type –most contain sunscreen guards against premature aging and skin cancer

6. Intensive Care Products packs, masks, ampules Masks - usually a setting product that dries leaves & leaves an occlusive (complete closure to environment ) –ingredients clay kaolin silica

7. Intensive Care Products –ingredients for occlusive properties paraffin wax gypsum These help achieve a skin tightening effect and absorb sebum

8. Masks –Produce stimulating and tightening sensation Benefits –Calming –Soothing –Toning –Hydrating

9. Mask are used after cleansing the face Clay Mask –Removes surface skin debris –Heals or reduces inflammation –Absorbs oil and debris Masks are classified as –Warm –Cold

10. Gel masks –Peel-off –Jelly Pectin is often used in gel masks to thicken the mask Why are commercial masks used in most salons? –Easier to prepare and safer to use

11. Ingredients Glycerine –Moisturizes skin Zinc oxide –Neutralizes excess alkali or acid on the skin Calamine –Produces a soothing action

12. Magnesium –Has a stimulating astringent action that tones the skin Fuller’s earth –Has stimulating, drawing action and absorbs excess oil Sulfur –Has a drying effect and slows down oil gland activity

13. Custom Mask Designed from fresh fruit, vegetables, or other ingredients Generally left on the face for 10 to 15 minutes Always ask client if they have any allergies to the fruits or vegetables you are using before applying

14. Custom – designed masks Fresh fruit masks –Strawberries – crushed or sliced Applied over or between gauze Mildly astringent and stimulating mask –Lemons and grapefruits Too acidic to use directly on the skin –Bananas – sliced or crushed Dry or sensitive skin Rich in vitamins, potassium, calcium and phosphorus Leave skin smooth and soft

15. Custom – designed masks Avocados – crushed –Rich in vitamins and essential oils –Produce a beneficial mask for dry or sensitive skin Papaya, tomatoes, apples and cucumbers –Mildly astringent and soothing qualities –Sliced very thinly or crushed –Gauze helps to hold the mask in place

16. Custom – designed masks Raw white potatoes – sliced thinly or grated –Applied over or between gauze –Oily or blemished skin –Reduce puffiness in the eye area White of an egg – beaten until fluffy –Applied to face and has a tightening effect –Clear impurities from the skin –Beneficial to all skin types

17. Custom – designed masks Yogurt, buttermilk and mayonnaise –Mildly astringent and are used for maske on all skin types –Cleansing action leaves the skin feeling refreshed Honey –Toning, tightening and hydrating effect Oatmeal and yeast –Mildly stimulating

18. Custom – designed masks FRESH LEMON juice –Mild bleaching –Acidic –May not be suitable for all types of skin Vitamins are applied to the skin to produce the following effects:

19. Vitamin A –Softens and lubricates dry, rough skin Vitamin C –Used for its astringent effect Vitamin D –Considered to have exceptional healing qualities Vitamin E –Used to lubricate and soften dry, rough skin

20. Herbs are used in masks for their natural qualities They are steeped in water to make a tea and applied to the face with a saturated cotton compress mask –Chamomile Calming, soothing and softening –Peppermint tea Cooling, soothing and antiseptic –Comfrey root tea Healing, astringent, soothing and softening

21. Gauze Gauze is a thin, open-meshed fabric of loosely woven cotton –Used to hold mask ingredients Some ingredients tend to run, such as sliced or crushed fruits or vegetables. Cheesecloth is also used –Ingredients are applied over gauze –Second layer off gauze may be necessary to hold ingredients in place –Used to keep paraffin & gypsum/plaster masks from sticking to the skin and the tiny hairs on the skin

22. Gauze By applying ingredients over a piece of gauze allows the product to cling or hold to the face Remove the gauze by lifting and rolling it upward carefully

23. Wax masks are favorites because they help to diminish fine lines and they moisturize dry skin The main purpose of a wax mask is to ensure deep penetration of products into the skin

24. Five steps in the procedure for a wax mask treatment –Clean the client’s face –Analyze the skin –Use a vaporizer or apply warm, moist towels –Apply massage cream, and give massage (sequence of movements that permit a smooth and graceful flow of one movement into another Purpose of massage –Continues the cleansing process –Removes dead surface cells from the skin –Increases blood circulation –Apply treatment cream and put the wax over the cream

25. The esthetician needs to remove the wax mask from the client’s face in one piece. It is imperative for the client to see the sculpture of his or her face that has been made with the wax.

26. Clay Masks Used for oily and combination skin; applied w/ a mask brush and are allowed to set for about 10 min. stimulates circulation temporarily contracts skin pores

27. Paraffin Wax Masks Contain paraffin and other beneficial ingredients melted before application cools and hardens to a candle-like consistency used w/ treatment cream allows for deeper penetration of treatment creams –has no treatment properties of its own eye pads and gauze are used –to prevent facial hair sticking to the wax

28. Modelage Masks Contain special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient mix w/ cold water –mix immediately before application apply about 1/4 inch thick –mask the hardens product reaches a temperature of approx. 105 degrees –gradually cools; setting time approx 20 min.

29. Modelage Masks –heat increases circulation beneficial for dry, mature skin or dull and lifeless- looking skin –not recommended for sensitive skin or skin w/ capillary problems, oily skin, or skin w/ blemishes –avoid massage prior to modelage masks

30. Modelage Masks –do not apply to lower neck also do not use on clients who are claustrophobic –use w/ treatment cream eye pads and gauze are also used Sulfur Masks –contain sulfur as their most important ingredient reduce sebum production

31. Packs Also referred to as cream masks or gel masks; very similar to treatment creams Packs remain soft & creamy Condition sensitive skin Have excellent hydrating properties Applied with mask brush Allow to set for 10 min.

32. Ampules Hermetically sealed glass vessels that contain one application of intensive, highly concentrated extracts in water or oil base –Applied after cleansing & exfoliation –Applied with light massage movements until absorbed –Applied under night cream or massage cream –Available for wide variety of skin types Some are used in a series once a month or several times per year Others used nightly –Deliver highly concentrated active ingredients in a pre-measured amount

33. Summary With aging our society has grown more interested in the health and beauty of their skin than ever before Most everyone wants to have an attractive appearance including healthy, natural looking skin Facial will help to keep the skin smooth and fresh