1. The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII 1920-1947 Chelsea Bell Southern Methodist University MSA 3325 Spring 2013

2. Historical Background The Twenties In the wake of WWI, many European nations were weakened and became smaller in size The Communists emerged in Russia led by Vladimir Lenin followed by Josef Stalin Benito Mussolini came in to power in 1922 in Italy The United States, conversely, settled into a period of unequaled prosperity Benito Mussolini Josef Stalin The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

3. American Prosperity The Twenties Radios began commercial broadcasting in 1922 Higher education was booming The chain store took hold and helped drive down the prices of consumer goods Installment buying took hold Airline passenger service was beginning by the end of the 1920s Automobiles were top-selling consumer goods The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

4. Changes in Social Life The Twenties WWI left people wondering if their efforts had been justified The 18 th Amendment passed in 1920 The changing roles of women resulted in a revolution of morals and values Romantic cynics like F. Scott Fitzgerald wrote characters who followed a ceaseless round of parties and pleasures The revolution of morality was evident in the behavior of the young, particularly young women The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

5. Visual Arts & Costume Art Deco Erté, 1920s Christ the Redeemer, built 1922-1931 Rio de Janeiro Spire of the Chrysler Building, NYC. Designed by William Van Alen, built 1920-1930 The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

6. Visual Arts & Costume Surrealism René Magritte False Mirror, 1928 The Persistence of Memory, 1931 Salvador Dali Dress by Elsa Schiaparelli, 1932 Fabric design by Salvador Dali The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

7. Visual Arts & Costume Motion Pictures Joan Crawford Charlie Chaplin Jean Harlow Mae West The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

8. Costume for Women: 1920-1930 Undergarments Brassiere, 1923 Corset, 1923 Step-in Chemise, 1923 The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

9. Costume for Women: 1920-1930 Evolution of the waistline, hipline, and hemline The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

10. Costume for Women: 1920-1930 The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

11. Costume for Women: 1920-1930 The “Flapper” Where There’s Smoke There’s Fire by Russell Patterson

12. Costume for Women: 1930-1947 Undergarments Slip and Panties, 1934 Brassiere and Girdle, 1930s Brassiere, WWII Made of printed calico

13. Costume for Women: 1930-1947

14. French Couture Madeleine VionnetGabrielle Coco ChanelElsa Schiaparelli Madame Grés Other Notables Mainbocher Molyneux Patou Piguet Nina Ricci Heim Lanvin Rochas Rouff Lucien Lelong Fortuny The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

15. American Designers Claire McCardell On the Rise: Norman Norell Pauline Trigére Adrian Joan Crawford in Letty Lynton Mainbocher Haper’s Bazaar 1937 The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

16. World War II General Restrictions… 1.More than two articles of apparel at one unit price 2.Any garment of multiple units, which contains wool cloth to be sold at a unit price 3.French cuffs on sleeves 4.Double material yokes 5.Balloon, dolman, or leg-of-mutton sleeves 6.Fabrics which have been reduced from nomal width or length by overall tucking, shirring, or pleating, except for minor trimmings 7.Inside pockets of wool cloth 8.Patch pockets of wool cloth on a lined wool cloth garment 9.Interlinings containing any virgin or reprocessed wool Specific Restrictions for Misses No coats with separate or attached cape, hood, muff, scarf, or bag or hat No daytime or evening dresses with a separate or attached belt exceeding 2 inches in width No evening dresses or suits or skirts and culottes with a hem exceeding 2 inches in width No jackets with sleeves cut on the bias or with cuffs on long sleeves No slacks with a cuff General Limitation Order L-85 The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII

17. Théâtre de la Mode The Twenties, Thirties, and WWII