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Testing Manual Maternity/Nursing/Baby Apparel DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TABLE OF CONTENTS Section 1 - Section 1 - Introduction Section 2 - Section 2 - Policy Statement Section 3 - Section 3 - Test Packages Section 4 - Section 4 - Test Procedures and Protocols: DMC responsibility Section 5 - Section 5 - Test Procedures and Protocols : Buying representative / vendor responsibility Section 6 - Section 6 - Test Procedures and Protocols: Certified Lab responsibility Section 5 - Section 5 - Testing Information on the Web Section 8 - Section 8 - DM Testing Team Contact Information Section 9 – Section 9 – DM Certified Lab’s Contact Information DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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INTRODUCTION This Testing Manual provides the administrative procedures and testing requirements under the current testing program. Destination Maternity Corp. is committed to delivering quality merchandise to the Destination Maternity customer. These guidelines are based on the mandate that all soft lines merchandise purchased by DM must be tested to meet all applicable laws and regulatory requirements, in addition to ensuring compliance with DM customer satisfaction and acceptability. DM performance standards are used as a guideline for the evaluation of Mothers Work soft lines product acceptability. Most test methods and test procedures are originated from: ASTM (American Society of Testing and Materials) AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) CPSC (Consumer Product Safety Commission) FTC (Federal Trade Commission) California Proposition 65 US state Regulations DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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Destination Maternity Corp. has four main certified laboratories, and one affiliate lab. These labs will perform testing on all items as requested by DM and its suppliers as outlined in this manual. Destination Maternity Corp. will only accept test reports from the following Destination Maternity Certified Laboratories: INTERTEK SGS TUV SUD UL ( UL affiliate in Peru Certintex) Each Lab website has a list of all applicable domestic and international lab locations – to include contact name and addresses. The DMC approved certified labs are available for the following type of testing: Fabric and garment testing Fabric inspections and in-line factory inspections CPSIA testing Chemical testing Testing or any subsequent test result does not limit Destination Maternity Corporation’s rights or diminish or remove buying representative or vendor’s responsibilities and obligations under the Purchase Order Terms and Conditions. POLICY STATEMENT DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PACKAGES Destination Maternity Corp. has three testing package options under the program that encompass the following testing options: DM Full Test Package (This test package is to be used for Motherhood / Oh Baby/ Pea in the Pod divisions only). This package includes fabric, garment and additional color testing. Destination Maternity Pea Collection Test Package (This test package is to be used for Pea Collection division only). This package includes fabric, garment and additional color testing. This package has a reduced amount of tests in comparison to the Full Test Package. 1)The buying representative or vendor will not be permitted to customize or change any of the Destination Maternity Test packages. However buying representatives or vendors are permitted to run individual testing as needed in order to confirm or deny specific test results as directed by Destination Maternity Corp. or to re-test specific test failures during the pre production testing process. 2) Failure to test under one of the above required test package’s will be considered non-compliance and will result in delay’s to the test process. The buying representative or vendor will be held responsible for these delay’s. 3) Each test package clearly outlines the classification, fabric type, tests, test method’s, individual / package pricing, sampling / yardage amounts and the standard required under the Destination Maternity Corp. test program. The Full and Pea Collection test packages encompass the following specific classifications for testing: Woven’s Woven Lingerie Knit’s Knit Lingerie Sweater’s Denim Swimwear Nursing Bra’s Panties Leather Mom & Baby Sets **Apparel with additional components, belts, trim that require Cal Prop 65 or other state regulatory testing – additional trim/components must be submitted (in trim/component form) to the lab at the time of fabric testing to ensure if a trim/component fails it can be re-sourced and re-tested before pre-production stage. The following list outlines test options for non standard classifications. These test menu’s are found within the Destination Maternity Full Test Package –all divisions except Pea Collection. Zipper’s Metal Trim’s Stocking’s/ Trouser Sock’s Leg Sticker’s DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOLS : Destination Maternity Corp. Provide the buying representative or vendor with a copy of the Destination Maternity Testing Manual, sample submission requirements, and performance standards and test prices. When a product fails testing, Destination Maternity Corp. will discuss the situation wit the merchant team (and vendor when necessary), to determine the disposition as to retest or cancellation of the order, etc. Provide the buying representative or vendor with updates to the program in writing, as they occur. Provide the buying representative or vendor with the Destination Maternity web site address: wwot.DestinationMaternity.com. Provide assistance with test failures/protocols/communication issues/Pricing or Technical discrepancies in regards to the testing program. DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors As a buying representative or vendor to Destination Maternity Corp., you are fully responsible for all fabric, garment, protocol testing and care label closure of production merchandise. You must guarantee that fabric, garments, protocol products pass all tests before production and shipment. You must guarantee that the approved care label is appropriate and legal based on the final testing for each style tested. The best timing for full fabric testing is when bulk fabric is approved by Destination Maternity Corp. The best timing for garment testing is at pre production stage (at the same time that you are sending your production quality pre pro sample for final fit approval, you should be sending your production quality samples to the lab for final garment testing). It is the buying representative or vendors responsibility to ensure that all necessary tests are done to meet the Destination Maternity Testing requirements. All tests will be paid by the buying representative or vendor Buying representative or vendor will submit, troubleshoot, and put final closure to all testing and care label’s, in time for delivery, as required under the Destination Maternity test program. DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors SAMPLES / FABRIC REQUIRED FOR TESTING: SAMPLES / FABRIC REQUIRED FOR TESTING: The following is a list of the amount of fabric / garments required for each Destination Maternity garment classification under the current test program: Destination Maternity Full Test Package (Motherhood/Pea in the Pod & Oh Baby Divisions): Woven’s – 4 yards fabric / 4 samples Woven Lingerie – 4 yards fabric / 4 samples Knit’s – 4 yards fabric / 4 samples Knit Lingerie – 4 yards fabric / 4 samples Sweater’s – 5 samples only Denim – 5 samples only Swimwear – 4 yards fabric / 4 samples Nursing Bra’s – 4 yards fabric / 4 samples Panties – 4 yards fabric / 4 samples Mom/Baby Sets – 4 Yards fabric/ 4 Mom Samples/ 3 Baby Samples/1 poly bag/3 main/coo/care labels/1 dozen snaps Leather – 4 yards worth of skins / 4 samples Zipper’s – 26 whole zippers Metal Trim’s – Call Testing Manager for sampling amount - approval required in advance Stocking’s / Trouser socks – 6 samples only Leg Stickers - 6 stickers Combo Fabric’s- Additional 4 yards for each combo fabric being tested Belly, Shelf bra or lining fabric’s – Additional 4 yards of each (if applicable) Fabric to be tested with the shell fabric Trims – Tested in garment form – all production quality trims should be on all garments sent for garment testing Destination Maternity Additional Color Way Test Package: 1 yard fabric for each color being tested Denim and sweater testing require 1 additional sample for each color being tested DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors SAMPLES / FABRIC REQUIRED FOR TESTING : SAMPLES / FABRIC REQUIRED FOR TESTING : The following is a list of the amount of fabric / garments required for each Destination Maternity garment classification under the current test program: Destination Maternity Pea Collection Test Package: Woven’s – 3 yards fabric / 2 samples Woven Lingerie – 3 yards fabric / 2 samples Knit’s – 3 yards fabric / 2 samples Knit Lingerie – 3 yards fabric / 2 samples Sweater’s – 3 samples only Denim – 3 samples only Swimwear – 3 yards fabric / 2 samples Bra’s – 3 yards fabric / 2 samples Panties – 3 yards fabric / 2 samples Leather – 3 yards worth of skins / 2 samples Belly Fabric (Cotton Spandex) – 3 yards Lining Fabric –3 yards Shelf Bra fabric – 3 yards Trims – Tested in garment form – all production quality trims should be on all garments sent for garment testing Destination Maternity Pea Collection Additional Color Way Test Package: 1 yard fabric for each color being tested Denim and sweater testing require 1 additional sample for each color being tested DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors PRE-PRODUCTION TESTING REQUIREMENTS The following outlines the pre-production testing requirements under the Destination Maternity Testing Program: Sending Testing To The Lab: Follow the fabric / sampling amounts required for testing (includes protocol styles tested) Follow the Program testing requirements for which styles need to be tested within a program Fabric and garments must be in the darkest color on order. Fabric must be identical to bulk production piece goods used for the garment /product submitted Pre Production samples must be made on production machinery and must represent bulk production Samples must include all bulk trim, accessories, heat seal, embellishments etc. applicable to the style Protocol samples tested must have any applicable warning labels, law labels, instructions for use as applicable to the product tested. Visually unsatisfactory samples ( stains, tears, missing pieces) WILL NOT BE ACCEPTED FOR TESTING! DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors PRE-PRODUCTION TESTING REQUIREMENT CONTINUED Lab Test Request Forms: Destination Maternity Corp. has the following lab test request forms for the following test package options: DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors PRE-PRODUCTION TESTING REQUIREMENT CONTINUED Each test package requires its own Lab Test Request form. Therefore the appropriate DM lab test request form is required to accompany all fabric, garments, and samples sent to the lab for testing. No exceptions. The most current lab test request forms are available on the Destination Maternity Corp. website wwot.destcorp.com Whoever orders the testing must sign the bottom of the Destination Maternity test request form. This will permit the lab to release the lab test results directly to Destination Maternity Corp. Failure to sign this form or failure to advise the lab that you are a Destination Maternity Corp. vendor will result in delays to the test process. Failure to use the Destination Maternity lab test request forms could result in improper testing, improper test pricing and testing delays. Failure to fill out the Destination Maternity lab test request form properly will delay the testing approval process. Failure to complete the CPSIA certificate information at the bottom of the lab test request forms will result in delay to the testing process. DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors PRE-PRODUCTION TESTING REQUIREMENTS CONTINUED Additional Color ways: All additional colors on order must be tested for colorfastness, PH value & AZO dyes. When testing additional color ways – 1 yard of each color to be tested is required Send the additional color fabric simultaneously with the fabric / samples sent for full testing New Colors: All new colors adopted must be tested for colorfastness, PH value & AZO dyes. When testing new colors please choose the additional color way test package option on the Lab Test Request Form Swim wear Colors: All new colors adopted must be dunk tested by Buying Representative/Vendor at production color approval stage (after fabric quality is approved) the following is required for internal dunk testing: 1/2 yard of each color on order (per style) Yardage for dunk testing should be tested by factory and results/digital photos sent to the appropriate testing associate Internal results will be documented in PLM. Failing results will require corrective action plan and re-testing for passing results. Greige Fabric Commitments: Greige fabric commitments are subject to completion of lab testing. All new fabric adoptions should be preliminarily tested on available colors (bright or dark colors unless only pastel’s or light’s will be used in bulk) in order to establish acceptable performance on the fabric prior to production. This preliminary testing may not be used in place of the required pre-production testing and should not be submitted for approval at pre pro stage. DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors PRE-PRODUCTION TESTING REQUIREMENTS CONTINUED Re-Orders & On Going Programs: Re-orders shipping more than 1 year past a previous shipment must be tested as a NEW program. This means new full fabric / Garment tests are required * For new buying representatives or vendors the requirement will be 6 months until established. Re-Orders shipping less than 6 months from a previous shipment must be tested as a new program if any element of the order has changed. This includes new factory, supplier, spinning, dyeing, weaving, knitting, finishing or the addition of any embellishment/trim/heat seal/decoration. * For new buying representatives or vendors the requirement will be 3 months until established. Any buying representative or vendor who are unsure of their re-order or on-going program status must contact the Testing Associate or Testing Director for confirmation. Approval of another time frame status other than the published time frame is subject to approval of Destination Maternity Corp. upper management. New Programs: New programs must be fully tested under the appropriate Destination Maternity Test packageRe-Tests: All re-tests are the buying representative or vendor’s responsibility. On product re-tests, the previous test report number must be referenced on the Lab Test Request Form. If a previous report number is not referenced, the full fabric and garment test may be performed upon the submission. Garment Dye styles: Garment dye styles are required to have testing performed in garment form only. Garments must be production quality/color/finish exactly as bulk production. No exceptions. DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors PRE-PRODUCTION TESTING REQUIREMENTS CONTINUED Additional Testing: All DM Apparel with trim/components/belts etc. will be automatically be evaluated for additional test requirements for Cal Prop 65 and other applicable state regulations based on the product submitted. These additional tests will be run automatically and are billed separately outside the package price. Destination Maternity Corp. reserves the right to require any additional testing, deemed necessary, upon request Flammability Requirements: Destination Maternity Corp. does not permit the use of Class 2 or Class 3 flammability for its apparel fabrics. Only Class 1 fabrics will be permitted for Destination Maternity production. Vendors who attempt to use these fabrics for DM production are subject to cancellation. none detected up to 75 ppm. Destination Maternity Corp. does not permit lab testing or care label approval on fabrics that Fail outside the DM requirements listed for formaldehyde: none detected up to 75 ppm. AZO Dye Requirements: Effective October 2008 AZO Dye testing is required on all import styles shipped for DM - no exceptions. none detected up to 20 ppm. Destination Maternity Corp. does not permit lab testing or care label approval on fabrics that fail outside the DM requirement for AZO Dye Colorants: none detected up to 20 ppm. All colors except White are to be tested for AZO Dye Colorants. AZO dye is exhibited on all test menus, this means the lab must automatically run AZO dye however it is billed separately outside the package price. DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors PRE-PRODUCTION TESTING REQUIREMENTS CONTINUED Care Label Closure Responsibility: The buying representative / vendor is responsible for the closure of the care label for the product they are providing for Destination Maternity Corp. Care label closure is achieved by doing the following: 1) 1) Successfully completing all required testing under the Destination Maternity testing programs (full fabric, garment, additional color way’s (if applicable) and re-tests if applicable - major testing failures) 2) 2) Sending the fully completed test package (all test reports, testing recap and care label layout form (Tri Lingual & Israel layouts if applicable) to the appropriate testing associate for review and approval. Care Label Requirements: US/CA/MEX All care label layouts submitted to Destination Maternity Corp., must be Tri Lingual and exhibit the following in order for approval French (Canada) and Spanish (Mexico) Translations for Fiber Content, Patent Information, Country Of Origin and any protective wording for Fiber Content (example: exclusive of trim) and Care Instructions (example: wash before wearing) Translations are located on the web at wwot.destcorp.com) USA (ASTM) care symbols that correspond with the care wording advised on the layout DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors PRE-PRODUCTION TESTING REQUIREMENTS CONTINUED Mom/Baby Set Testing: Destination Maternity has specific testing requirements for Mom/Baby Sets. The Sizing for the Baby Bodysuit attached to the Mom product is always 0-9 months and is not to be considered Sleepwear. Mom/Baby Set Test testing will be run on the fabric, mom garment, baby garments and all labels. The testing sample plan is listed on the test menu. The Testing Menu encompasses the standard DM performance & colorfastness testing as well as applicable CPSIA and US State regulatory testing. *Failing Test results for Lead, Cadmium, Small Parts, Sharp Points Flammability and Tracking label are not acceptable and will not be waived for production. The Baby Bodysuit must always have lapped shoulder – no snaps/buttons on shoulders. There may be no additional decorative trims that create small parts or safety hazards – embellishments/trims must be reviewed with the testing team prior to selection and/or approval. The snaps for opening at the bottom of the body suit must be fully tested for all applicable CPSIA and US State regulatory testing per the DMC test menu. Testing is permitted in component form. The snaps must be traceable back to the supplier and the supplier of the trim may not change from purchase order to purchase order. Supplier Name / Address/Contact will be required to be provided with the test package. For Baby Bodysuits with screen prints, heat seals – they will be tested for all applicable regulatory testing. Additional panels with production quality screen print and/or heat seals will be required to complete this testing. Testing is valid for one year from date first tested. Samples tested must be random pull from production – no exceptions. DMC test reports for Mom/Baby sets will automatically generate a Certificate of Compliance for all regulatory requirements. For on-going styles DMC must be alerted for any fabric / component change and re-testing of the new fabric / components will be required. For on-going styles running annually, additional full testing is required quarterly, to ensure to a high degree that the baby product is meeting all regulatory requirements consistently and that fabric and components are not changed from initial production testing approval without DMC awareness. Vendors will be required to initiate this quarterly testing and to provide passing test results to DMC Testing team upon completion. DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors PRE-PRODUCTION TESTING REQUIREMENTS CONTINUED Care Label Requirements ISRAEL: All care label layouts submitted to Destination Maternity Corp., for Israel Purchase orders must be Hebrew Only and exhibit the following in order for approval Hebrew Translations for all information with the exception of Patent Information, DM RN# and DM CA#. Hebrew Translations are located on the web at wwot.destcorp.com) USA (ASTM) care symbols that correspond with the care wording advised on the layout Care Label Closure Turn Time: Care label approval and closure must be competed at pre production sample stage by the date confirmed in the T&A Turn time for care labels sent to Destination Maternity Corp. is 5 working days from the date received / 10 days after PP approval date. Any requests for RUSH testing turn time are at the discretion of the Destination Maternity Testing Department and are based on testing volume DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors PRE-PRODUCTION TESTING REQUIREMENTS CONTINUED Colorfastness Requirements: Destination Maternity Corp. does not permit excessive waivers for colorfastness to crocking, wash or dry cleaning. Crocking requirements are clearly outlined in each test menu. A reduced crocking requirement is indicated for pigment, over dye, tie dye, etc. Wet Crocking failures waived (may not exceed.5 failure) require “wash before wearing” to be automatically added to care label DMC warning hang tag is required for all styles that meet the reduced crocking requirement category (Indigo, Pigment and Over dye product) DMC warning hang tag may be added to a style at the direction of Testing Associate based on test results or extenuating circumstances. DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: Buying Representative’s & Vendors PRE-PRODUCTION TESTING REQUIREMENTS CONTINUED Cancellations: Any Fabric that fails garment testing cannot be cut for production without a waiver from the Destination Maternity Testing Department. Any garments cut from the fabric failing testing is at the risk of the buying representative or vendor and is subject for cancellation. Customer Complaints: Customer complaints that relate to unacceptable consumer performance are subject to post production testing and review. In the event of a complaint, stock samples will be pulled by Destination Maternity Corp. and sent to UL/USA Lab for testing for the advised performance complaint. DM reserves the right to run additional tests that may relate to the complaint. If post production testing shows a failure outside of the production approved testing the buying representative or vendor will be alerted via e mail for resolution.Compliance: Deficiencies in compliance with these terms may result in charge backs to the equivalent of post production testing costs/ DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: DM Certified Lab’s CERTIFIED LAB’S RESPONSIBILITY’S CONTINUED: Test Evaluation and Reporting: The lab will complete all testing and evaluate the test results (See Destination Maternity test packages). They will rate the product by: 1)PASS 1)PASS – The product provides good overall consumer serviceability and requires no improvement. 2)FAIL 2)FAIL – The product has deficiencies of such severity that customer dissatisfaction will likely result and / or non –compliance of DM testing standards or regulatory requirements. The product cannot be sold until improvements are made. 3)The lab will complete hard copy report in the “Report” form including reasons for failure and recommendations for improvements in the case of fail rating. 4)The lab will confirm recommended fiber content, care instructions wording and USA care symbols, based on the test results. 5)Test Reports (PASS or FAIL) – The complete hard copy report (including all swatches) and the testing invoice will be mailed to the buying representative or vendor who ordered the testing. Tested specimens will be returned as well unless otherwise advised by the buying representative or vendor. 6)Testing invoice will be mailed to buying representative or vendor and DMC Sample Return SOP will be followed unless otherwise directed by DMC. 7)Tested specimens may or may not be requested depending on the failures. Destination Maternity Corp. reserves the right to request any and all tested specimens in order to expedite testing waivers or determine appropriate course of action for production. *See DMC Sample Return SOP on next page. DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: DM Certified Lab’s CERTIFIED LAB’S RESPONSIBILITY’S CONTINUED: DMC Sample Return SOP: DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015 DMC Sample Return SOP 1 Test Report Issued 2 Hard Copy report and Remaining Samples returned to DMC applicant (Vendors/Agents/Supplier/Mills). 3 DM applicant will send the tested specimen or hard copy report to DMC for review upon request.
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TEST PROCEDURES & PROTOCOL’S: DM Certified Lab’s CERTIFIED LAB’S RESPONSIBILITY’S CONTINUED: Test Evaluation and Reporting: The lab will e-mail test reports (in the “report” form / PDF format) to the following recipients: Buying representative or vendor who ordered the testing Destination Maternity Corp. - Att: Mari Alessi-Kowalski at: mkowalski@DestinationMaternity.commkowalski@DestinationMaternity.com Any additional Destination Maternity recipients listed for CC on the lab test request form Testing Release Form:. Whoever orders the testing must sign the bottom of the Destination Maternity test request form. This will permit the lab to release the lab test results directly to Destination Maternity Corp. Failure to sign the test request form or advise the lab that you are a DM buying representative or vendor will result in delays to the testing process. Buying representatives and vendors will be held responsible for these delays not the lab. DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TESTING INFORMATION ON THE WEB The following testing information is posted on the Destination Maternity Website: wwot.destcorp.com Click here to view the Destination Maternity Corp. Testing Program Requirements.here DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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TESTING TEAM CONTACT INFORMATION Director: Mari Alessi-Kowalski: E-Mail: mkowalski@DestinationMaternity.com Phone 215-873-2200 ext. 32838 Testing Associate: Endia Johnson: Knits,(Import & Market Direct) Jewelry, Accessories (Nursing, Baby, Maternity, General) E-Mail: ejohnson@DesinationMaternity.com Phone 215-873-2200 ext. 32839 Testing Associate : Lindsay Griffin: Woven’s (Import & Market Direct) Western Hemisphere Piece Goods, Accessories (Ingestible, & Topical) e-mail lgriffin@DestinationMaternity.com Phone 215-873-2200 ext. 32474 **Please reference Technical Design Responsibility Chart for all of the above team members individual testing categories. DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015
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CERTIFIED LABS: US Global Account Managers Maria O’Sullivan Key Account Manager Consumer Products & Retail TÜV SÜD America, Inc. 10 Centennial Drive, Suite 0207 Peabody, MA 01960 Email: mosullivan@tuvam.com Mobile: 978.578.8546 Nevine Noss Consumer Testing Services, a Division of North America, Inc. Key Account Manager SGS Consumer Testing Services 291 Fairfield Ave Fairfield, NJ 07004 Phone: +973-461-7945 Fax: +973-575-7175 Email: nevine.noss@ Emily Davis Account Manager Consumer Goods INTERTEK Penn Station Newark, NJ 07102 Email: emily.davis@intertek.com Mobile: 908-635-4441 Kristin White Client Services Specialist Verification Services DM testing Manual V4 2014-2015 Kristin White Client Services Specialist, Consumer Products Consumer Business Unit -------------------------------------------- UL Verification Services, Inc. 1559 King Street Enfield, CT 06082
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