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Braiding and Braid Extensions
Chapter 18 Braiding and Braid Extensions
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More important the person, the more elaborate the braids were
Origins in Africa Different styles ~ social status More important the person, the more elaborate the braids were Amyhairbraiding.com
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Ehow.com Cedarartworld.com
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Today ~ signals self-esteem and self-image Africa ~ handed down from generation to generation Investment of time African cultures ~ opportunity for women to socialize and form relationships
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Today ~ salons practice “natural hairstyling” No chemicals ~ does not alter the natural curl or coil pattern For people of all ethnicities Diverse approach to hair care
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With proper care ~ can last up to three months ~ 6-8 weeks preserves the health of the hair Investment in time and money is high Detailed consultation ~ ensures a happy ending Fill out client card ~ update every appointment
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Ehow.com Hometownhairbraiding.com
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Hair Analysis Consultation: ~ condition of hair and scalp ~ texture (3 qualities) Diameter ~ coarse, medium, or fine
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2. Feel ~ oily, dry, hard, soft, smooth, coarse, or wiry 3. Wave pattern (coil configuration) ~ straight, wavy, curly, or coiled
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Coil ~ very tight curl ~ spiral in formation ~ when stretched,
resembles loops “Textured hair”= tight coil pattern Manandchic.blogspot.com
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Read FYI Consider: Density ~ where hair is thin Condition
~ damage and breakage Length ~ physically long enough Scalp health ~ healthy/properly cared for Read FYI
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Most braids are appropriate
Page Oval Face Most braids are appropriate Round Face Add height ***Asymmetrical creates a slenderizing look High on top *secured below the crown in back Hairweb.org
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Hairbytowanda.com Pabeautystation.co.uk
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Inverted Triangle (Heart) Face
Square face Longer braids to frame the face Inverted Triangle (Heart) Face ***Partial bangs ***Frame the face ***Fullness at chin
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Triangular (Pear) Face
Bring braids forward at chin line
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Oblong Face ***Full styles ***Partial bangs ***Medium length
***Avoid middle parts Side chignon Morris-roots.com
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Tools for Braiding Boar-bristle brush ~ stimulates scalp
~ removes dirt and lint Soft nylon brush ~ fine ~ soft hair at hairline Cherrybrook.com
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Square paddle brush ~ releases tangles, knots, and snarls ~ cushion of air (bristles collapse with resistance *prevents breakage in fragile hair
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~ gently to remove tangles
Vent brush ~ gently to remove tangles ~ wet or dry hair Use on human hair extensions Check tips ~ even if one is missing/discard fbi4u.com Cachebeauty.com
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Avoidsscratching the scalp
Wide-toothed comb ~ teeth width ~ medium to large Avoidsscratching the scalp Allows textured hair to move between rows of teeth Cosmeticmarket.com
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~ sectioning large segments ~ opening and removing braids
Double-tooth comb ~ separates the hair ~ detangles wet hair Tail comb ~ for design parting ~ sectioning large segments ~ opening and removing braids Beauty-relaxation.co.za
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Finishing comb ~ 8 to 10” in length ~ used while cutting
~ fine/straight hair Beautystore.com
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Cutting comb ~ for small sections ~ use after hair is softened and elongated with blow-dryer Pick with round teeth ~ lifting and separating *** one in kit
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Blow-dryer with pick nozzle ~ dries, stretches, and softens Diffuser
~ dries without disturbing the finished look Folica.com $187.00
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~ creates shape and finished look ~ trims bangs (fringe)
Five-inch scissors ~ creates shape and finished look ~ trims bangs (fringe) ~ excess extension material Long clips ~ separates into large sections Sleekhair.com
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Butterfly and small clips
~ separates into various sections Hooded dryer ~ remove excess moisture before blowdrying Small rubber bands or string ~secure the ends Read: State Regulatory Alert
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Extensions Extension fibers-list to follow Hackle
~ board of fine upright nails ~ used to detangle and blend colors Hairlineillusions.com
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~ flat leather pads with close and fine teeth
Drawing board ~ flat leather pads with close and fine teeth ~ sandwich the human hair extensions madeinchina.com
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Materials and Extensions
The fibers you use will determine ~ how successful ~ durable the extension will be Buying new product: ~ buy in small quantities ~ test the fiber on a mannequin first
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~ little information about the process ~ is it 100% ?
Vogishchic.info Human hair ~ gold standard ~ imported from Asia ~ little information about the process ~ is it 100% ? ~ deal with suppliers you know and trust
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Kanekalon ~ manufactured, synthetic fiber of excellent quality ~variety of types, colors, textures ***less shine
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Madeinchina.com Tradeeasy.com
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~ some are high-heat resistant
~ durable, soft, less tangling ~ holds up to shampooing and styling ***costs more/better quality
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Nylon or rayon synthetic
~ less expensive ~ varying qualities ~ reflects light/very shiny ~ known to cut or break the hair ~ repeated shampooing=less durable ~ will melt if high heat is applied
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Samantha blogspot.com Whyareyouyelling.blogspot.com
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~ made of cotton or nylon blend ~ very inexpensive
Yarn ~ made of cotton or nylon blend ~ very inexpensive ~ light, soft, and detangles easily ~ available in many colors ~ matte finish ~ expands when shampooed * will not slip ~ appear black in store/shows blue or green tint in natural light
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Quinnster,fgdn.net
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Lin ~ wool fiber from Africa ~ matte finish ~ only in black and brown ~ comes in roll ~ any length and size ~ very flammable
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Yak ~ strong fiber ~ domestic ox ~ use alone or blend with human hair ~ mixed helps to remove manufactured shine
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2001everest.com
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Wellbanklochans.co.uk Tradeindia.com
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Working With Wet or Dry Hair
~ best dry/wet shrinks ~ tension leads to breakage ~ wet-allow for shrinkage ~ straight, resistant hair *coat with wax or pomade Read Caution
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~ if shampooed, apply leave-in conditioner
~ use wide-toothed comb * detangling comb ~ blow-dry the hair ~ wax, pomades, gels, or lotions can be used ~ use large paddle brush ~ start at ends to remove tangles
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~ textured hair is * very fragile/wet and dry ~ blow-dry quickly * softens * more manageable ~ loosens and elongates wave pattern * easier “pick-up” * manipulation of the hair
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~ left and right sides woven under center strand
Braiding the Hair Classified ~ visible or invisible Visible braid ~ three-strand braid ~ underhand technique ~ left and right sides woven under center strand ***used for cornrows cute2try.hairdos.blogspot.com
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Invisible braid ~ three-strand braid ~ overlapping ~ overhand technique ~left and right strands go over the middle one
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Amothers’journal.com Hairboutique.com
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Rope Braid Two strands ~ twisted around each other ~ on one-length or long, layered hair ~ add to both sides before twisting ***done on dry hair
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Farm2static.flickr.com
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Fishtail Braid Simple two-strand braid ~ hair picked up from sides ~ added to the strands as they are crossed over each other *** done on dry hair ~ non-layered hair, at least shoulder length
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Hairboutique.com Electricbanana.typepad.com
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Invisible Braid On or off the scalp With or without extensions Straight layered hair-use wax or pomade
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Single Braids Terms: single, box, individual ~ all refer to free-hanging braids ~ with or without tension ~ either underhand or overhand stitch ~ all hair textures
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~ parting determine where braid is * how it moves
Math.buffalo.edu Subsections ~ square ~ triangular ~ rectangular ~ parting determine where braid is * how it moves ~ moves in any direction
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Naturallyyoumagazine.blogspot.com Amandahairbraiding.com
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Extensions ~ for single braids * integrated into the natural hair ~ select synthetic hair, yarn, or human hair ~ vital in the finished style ~ must be consistent and close together
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Picasaweb.google.com
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During consultation ~ open package ~ verify that color is correct ~ cut to desired length ~ place on drawing board
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~ place a heavy object on top
~ allows easy extract ~ can be separated and dispensed free-hand
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~ narrow strips of visible braid *lie close to the scalp
Cornrows Or canerows ~ narrow strips of visible braid *lie close to the scalp ~ on-the-scalp technique ~ consistent even partings
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~ mannequin to practice * speed *accuracy * finger and wrist dexterity
~ worn by men, women, and children
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Combination cornrow with single braids in back
Maasaibraids.com
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~ various lengths and textures
~ elaborate designs ~ skill and creative expression ~ can last several weeks without extensions ~ two months with extensions
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Cornrows with Extensions
~ feed-in method ~ built up strand by strand ~ excess extension material * too much weight on fragile hairline * leaves an unrealistic finished look ~ correct tension eliminates artificial look *prevents breakage
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Traditional ~ flat, natural, and contoured ~ partings define the finished style ~ creates a tapered or narrow base at the hairline
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~ extension hair * fills in the base ~ takes longer ~ lasts longer ~ looks more natural
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When picking up hair ~ directly underneath ~ never comes from another panel ~ or extended up into the braid from a lower part
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Overextending or misplacing the beginning of the extension
~ leaves hair exposed and unsupported ~ leads to breakage and hair loss especially at hairline
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Tree Braids Newer way to add hair for longer looks Client’s hair is braided along with extension Finished look shows mostly faux hair
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Takes about 4 hours Techniques are still evolving Many ways to do them. You can read on if interested in these braids.
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Locks Or dreadlocks ~ hair that is intertwined and meshed together ~ forms a single or separate network of hair ~ without chemicals ~ several slow phases ~ can take six months to one year
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To cultivate locks ~ double twisting ~ wrapping with cord ~ coiling ~ braiding ~ or not combing or brushing
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Rastafarians of Jamaica ~ natural course will cause it to lock
(Rasta is a religion of respect of all living things and self-respect) Cultivated African locks ~ have symmetry and balance Magicdragon.org
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Comb Technique Early stage ~ while the coil is still open ~ place comb at base of the scalp * with a rotating motion * spiraling the hair into a curl ~ comb moves down to the end ~ gives a tight coil ~ excellent on short hair
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Palm Roll ~ gentlest ~ guides it through all the natural stages of locking ~ apply gel to dampened subsections ~ place portion of hair between palms of both hands ~ roll in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction
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~ move down the coil shaft
Partings are: ~ directional ~ horizontal ~ vertical ~ bricklayered Decorative designs Sculpting patterns are creative options
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Rastafarian.info Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com
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Braids or Extensions ~ involves sectioning the hair * single braiding ~ synthetic fiber, yarn, or human hair * added to single braid to form a lock ~ after several weeks, braid will grow away from the scalp ~ palm roll used to cultivate the new growth to form a lock
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Micro braids Coolmenshair.com/2008 Associatedcontent.com
Merchantcircle.com
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Womensbeautylife.com Pro.corbis.com
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Senegalese twists *Synthetic hair Picasaweb.google.com
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Tree braids Longhaircareforum.com Kinky twists Merchantcircle.com
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