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Fabrics Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02
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Fabric Construction: Weaving and Knitting
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Woven Fabrics Interlacing 2 sets of yarns at right angles to each other
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Plain Weave Simplest of all weaves Most common
Over, under; over, under **broadcloth, gingham, poplin muslin, and many others
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Twill Weave Diagonal weave **denim, gabardine **firm, heavy weave
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Satin Weave Shiny, reflects light Smooth and slippery Frays a lot
**lustrous appearance
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Leno Weave Pairs of threads crossed over Looks “open”
Fruit bags, mosquito netting
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Pile Weave Raised surface Loopy or furry Velvet Corduroy
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Knits Weft – one yarn Warp – several yarns
Purl – looks the same on both sides Purl Knit Warp Knit Weft Knit
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Weft Knit** Uses one yarn **Single knit, ribbed and jersey
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Double Knit 2 yarns and 2 sets of needles Heavier and sturdier
Doesn’t run or ravel
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Ribbed Knit Vertical ribs on front and back
Neck and wrist bands on sweaters
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Jersey Knit Most common knit Plain, single knit T-shirts
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Tricot Knit Very fine vertical wales on the right side
Stable knit – lies flat Doesn’t run or ravel Lingerie, underwear Very fast to weave
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Raschel Knit Uses extra yarn to create a pattern
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Non-woven Leather, lace, felt, disposable fabrics Heat, moisture
Adhesive, bonding Yarns and layers
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Non-woven Interlocking fibers Don’t fray or ravel Flexible
Might tear easily
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Felting Hot washing and drying wool Shrinks Soft and fluffy
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Interfacing Very light to very heavy and stiff Padding (quilting)
Fusible or sew-in
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Fabric Finishes Special treatments applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture or performance
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“Gray Goods” Before any color or finish is added to the product.
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Bleaching Used to remove impurities in fabric to ensure a “true dye.”
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Yarn Dyed Yarns are dyed before weaving or knitting.
Good for plaids, checks, and stripes. **
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Fiber Dyed ** AKA “Stock Dyeing”
Natural fibers dyed before spun into yarn Uniform color and good color fastness
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Piece Dyed** Fabric dyed after weaving or knitting
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Garment Dyed Fabric is cut and sewn Entire garment or item is dyed
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Color is transferred to surface of fabric to form a pattern
Printing Techniques Color is transferred to surface of fabric to form a pattern
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Printing pres with circular rollers
One for each color
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Rotary Screen Fast, inexpensive 3500 yards per hour
Good for large designs**
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Texture and Performance Finishes
Improves surface feel of fabric Improve comfort and wear ability
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Napping Raised, Fuzzy Fabric
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Sizing Extra body and weight Adds Starch
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Weighting A textured finish applied to make the garment stiffer and heavier looking than it is Advantage is to use a cheaper lighter weight fabric and make it appear stronger than it really is
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