1. Textile Fabrics & Finishes

2. Fabric Design & Construction
2 major forms of fabric designs
Structural design
Building in texture or interest into fabrics
Weaving & knitting
Applied design
Adding color

3. Fabric Design & Construction
Weaving (def) – the procedure of interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other
Warp – lengthwise (up and down)
Weft (or filling) – crosswise (side to side over and under the warp yarns)
Selvage (def) – will not ravel – turns at edge to go back the other way
Grain – direction of yarn in fabric
Bias grain – diagonal
True Bias – 45-degree angle

4. Types of Weaves 3 basic weave types:
Plain
Simplest & most common
Variation – basket weave denier
Think of a tennis racket – lengthwise and crosswise pass over and under each other
Twill – a yarn in one direction “floats” over two or more yarns in the other direction – dominant yarn is seen on the surface of the cloth creating a diagonal rib pattern
Satin – long yarn floats on the surface in one direction – go over 4 or more yarns and under one – creates shiny fabric surface
Variations of 3 weave types can create:
Stripes, checks, plaids, and other patterns

5. Variation Terms Jacquard loom Pile fabrics Nap
Machine that weaves large, complex designs
Pile fabrics
Have loops projecting from surface
Terry cloth
Nap
Raised from the surface

6. Knitting (def) Looping yarns together Gauge
# of stitches, or loops, per inch
Sportswear, sweaters (natural flexibility and built in stretch to fit the body comfortably)
Types
Tube form
Flat knitted fabrics
Page Characteristics

7. Knitting Single knit – single needle Double knit – 2 needles
Formal wear, lingerie, & T-shirts
Double knit – 2 needles
Dresses, slacks, suits, & coats
Purl Knits – crosswise ridges – reversible
Waistbands, neckbands, cuffs
Sweater knits – loosely knitted
Textured knits
Permanently crimped, coiled, curled, or looped

8. Knitting Warp Knits Tricot Raschel knits Fastest way Stable, durable
Most familiar warp knit
Does not run or ravel
Clingy dresses, shirts, & lingerie
Raschel knits
Limited stretch, lots of texture

9. Nonwoven fabrics
(def) made from a compact web of fibers, not yarns, held together with a combination of moisture, heat, chemicals, friction, and/or pressure.
Compact web
Use
Moisture, heat, chemicals
No grain line
Disposable
Collars & cuffs
Vinyl
Artificial suedes

10. Other Construction Methods
Laces and Nets
Braided Fabrics
Also called plaiting
Shoelaces, trims
Bonded Fabrics
Fusible web
Iron on patches
Quilted Fabrics

11. Fabric Finishing Apply colors, designs, surface treatments Converters
Greige to finished fabrics
Bleaching
Dyeing
Printing
Adding finishes

12. Bleaching Chemicals Remove natural coloring Remove impurities
Oils, waxes,
Fade products
Stone wash

13. Dyeing Giving color to textiles Colorfast Not fade or change
Can launder, dry cleaning, sunlight, perspiration, rubbing

14. Dyeing Fiber Yarn Before spun into yarn
Natural – stock-dyed or bale-dyed
Manufactures
Solution-dyed
Yarn
Before wound onto spoils
Stripes, checks, plaids

15. Dyeing Piece Dyeing Garment After woven or knitted
Least expensive, fastest
Garment
Usually knitted
Dyed with requested color and immediately shipped

16. Printing Colors, designs, patterns to surface of garment
Overall prints
Across all the fabric
Directional prints
Border prints
Even or balanced plaids
Ex. checks

17. Printing Uneven plaids Several basic methods Roller Printing
Screen Printing
Rotary printing – combo of roller & screen
Heat transfer
Ink-Jet Printing – cheaper
Flocking – with adhesive

18. Finishes Wearing advantages Temporary Renewable Ease of care
Page 127 – fabric finishes
Most are permanent
Durable
Temporary
Last until washed
Renewable
Can be replaced

19. Finishes Many types but all fall into 2 categories Mechanical Chemical
Affects sizes and appearances
Ex. Pre-shrunk
Pressing & pounding – flat harder surface
Chemical
Mercerization
Ex. Crease-resistant, stain resistant
Permanent press
Resist wrinklet