1. Alkaline or Acid
You will learn the differences in alkaline and acid perms & chemistry of perms

2. Chemistry of Permanent Waving
Alkaline perm solutions softens & swells the hair
Raises the cuticle & permits the solution to penetrate into the cortex
Once in the cortex, the solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction
Involves either the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen
Reduction reaction
Disulfide bond joins a sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with a second sulfur atom on a neighboring polypeptide chain
Perm solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each of the sulfur atoms in the disulfide bond
Sulfur atoms attach to the hydrogen from the perm solution, breaking their attachment to each other
Once the disulfide bond is broken, the polypeptide chains are able to slip into their new curled shape

3. Chemistry of Permanent Waving
Reducing agents
Thiol compounds
Commonly referred to simply as thio / thioglycolic acid
Colorless liquid / strong unpleasant odor
Provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in perm solutions
Strength is determined by the concentration of thio
Stronger perms have a higher concentration of thio w/ a greater number of hydrogen atoms
More hydrogen atoms are available, more disulfide bonds are broken

4. Chemistry of Permanent Waving
Thioglycolic acid
Acid, do not swell the hair or penetrate into the cortex
Manufacturers add an alkalizing agent
Ammonia is added and produces a new chemical called ammonium thioglycolate, which is alkaline
ATG is main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms
Degree of alkalinity (pH)
Second factor in overall strength of perm solution
pH ( alkalinity ) of the perm solution should correspond to the resistance, strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer

5. Alkaline Waving / Cold waving
Reforming or waving lotion
Wrapping procedures
Processing
Rinsing & or blotting
Bonding / neutralizing
Formulated w/ thioglycolic acid or its derivatives & ammonium hydroxide
Wrapped without tension
Hair starts to process immediately upon application of lotion
Easier to rinse due to swollen cuticle
3 functions
Lowers pH of hair
Shrinks swollen hair shaft
Restores disulfide bonds
Shorten processing time, ammonium hydroxide is added
This allows space for the hair to swell
Curl begins to form immediately also
Essential to rinse all lotion from hair
Oxidation process which changes the cysteines back to cystine
Softens & swells the hair fibers, making it easier for the thio acid to penetrate the hair structure & break disulfide bonds
This swelling creates the necessary tension
Greater danger of hair damage if not watched during processing
Never rock and roll the rods, only blot to remove excess moisture
Never leave the bonding/neutralizer on longer than indicated by the manufacturer
High alkalinity
pH 9.0 to 9.6
Shorter processing time & higher pH

6. Acid waving / Warm waving
Reforming or waving lotion
Wrapping procedures
Processing
Rinsing & or blotting
Bonding / neutralizing
Formulated with thioglycolic acid or its derivatives and water,
Glyceryl monothioglycolate
(GMTG)
It is essential that the hair be wrapped with firm, even tension
Heat is applied to speed penetration of chemicals
Essential to remove all reforming solution completely before bonding
3 functions
Lowers pH of hair
Shrinks swollen hair shaft
Restores disulfide bonds
Speed is sacrificed for a more controlled curl & less damage
Some acid wave will have ATG, ammonium thioglycolate as a reducing agent
Tension along w/reforming lotion & heat, are all necessary to break the disulfide bonds
Longer processing time gives more control over the curl & less damage
Because hair is not swollen as it is in alkaline waving
Oxidation process which changes the cysteines back to cystine
True acid waves have a pH of 4.5 to 7.0, processed with heat Acid -balanced waves have a pH of 7.8 to 8.2, process at room temperature
It is harder & takes longer to adequately remove solution & odor
Never leave the bonding/neutralizer on longer than indicated by the manufacturer
Does not have the large pH span to close or excessive swelling to reduce

7. Exothermic Waves 3 components: Solution – ( reductiton ) Activator
Produces heat
Creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution & speeds up the processing
Activator is added immediately before use, which causes the increase in perm solution
The increase in temperature causes a chemical reaction, which shortens the processing time
3 components:
Solution – ( reductiton )
Activator
Neutralizer ( rebonding )
Solution contains thio, just as in a cold wave
Activator contains oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide
Neutralizer contains hydrogen peroxide, lanolin & other special ingredients
Stops the action of the perm and hardens the hair to its new form
Acid solution

8. Endothermic waves & Ammonia-free waves
Absorbs heat from its surroundings
Activated by an outside heat source
Hood-type dryer
Will not process properly at room temperature
Most true acid waves are endothermic & require heat of a hair dryer
Ammonia-free waves
Examples of alkanolamines as a substitute for ammonia
Aminomethylpropanol (AMP)
Monoethanolamine (MEA)
Do not smell as strong
Alkaline & just as damaging

9. Thio-free & low –pH waves
Thio-free waves
Other ingredients than ATG
Reducing agent
Cysteamine
Mercaptamine
These thio substitutes are not technically ATG
Can be just as damaging as thio perms
Low-pH waves
Sulfates, sulfites & bisulfites
Low pH
Not very popular
Very weak & do not provide a firm curl
Marketed as body waves or alternative waves

10. Perm Categories Perm type Active ingredient Process Hair type Results
Advantages
Disadvantages
Alkaline/cold wave
pH: 9.0 to 9.6
Ammonium thioglycolate
(ATG)
Room temperature
Coarse, thick, or resistant
Firm, strong curls
Processes quickly at room temp
Unpleasant ammonia odor,damage delicate hair
Exothermic wave
Ph:9.0 to 9.6
Exothermic
Exothermic reaction causes solution to get hot
True acid wave
pH: 4.5 to 7.0
Glyceryl monothioglycolate
(GMTG)
Endothermic
Extremely porous or very damaged
Soft, weak curls
Low pH produces minimal swelling
Required heat,will not produce firm,strong curls
Acid-balancced
pH: 7.8 to 8.2
Porous or damaged
Soft curls
Minimal swelling, processes at room temperature
Repeated exposure causes allergic sensitivity in clients or stylist
Ammonia-free wave
pH: 7.0 to 9.6
Monoethanolamine (MEA)
Aminomethylpropanol
(AMP)
Porous to normal
Medium to fine curls
No unpleasant ammonia odor
Overall strength varies w/ different manufacturers
Thio-free wave
Mercaptamine/
cysteamine
Gentler, depending on formula
Low-pH wave
pH: 6.5 to 7.0
Ammonium sulfite/
Ammonium bisulfite
Normal,fine, or damage
Weak curl or body wave
Minimal swelling
Requires heat, weak curls

11. Summary A variety of permanent waves are available in salons today
Depending on hair texture, density and porosity determines which perm to use; acid or alkaline