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Trimming, Grading, Clipping & Notching Seams
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Trimming, Grading and Clipping Seams
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Trimming To cut off part of the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Trim away 3/8 inch of fabric along the full length of the seam.
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Grading Means to trim each layer of the seam allowance to a different width. Trimming the seam reduces bulk more smoothly.
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Clipping Means to cut slits into the seam allowance.
Needed on all seams with an inside curve. Usually done at ½ inch intervals at a 90°angle.
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REASONS If seam lines tend to pucker or look bulky.
Want seams on a finished garment to appear smooth.
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Notching Means to cut wedges into the seam allowance.
Is done on seams with an outside curve. Removes excess fabric that otherwise cause the seam to be bulky when turned.
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Trimming -cut off part of the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
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Method of Trimming -trim away ⅜ of an inch of fabric along the full length of the seam. -this will leave a ¼ inch seam allowance.
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Grading -cutting layers of a seam allowance to
varying (different) widths.
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Method of Grading -trim each seam allowance to a different width
-garment seam allowance is left widest -facing seam allowance is trimmed narrowest -layers in between, trimmed more than the garment, but less than the facing
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Clipping -to cut slits into the seam allowance.
-needed on all seams with an inside (inward) curve.
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Purpose of clipping -seam will turn over smoothly.
-curved seams not clipped, will pucker when turned.
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Method of Clipping -use points of shears - cut into seam allowance at right angles to seam line -cuts should be ½” apart, cutting almost to the seam line. -inside corners clip diagonally from seam edge to stitching
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Notching -cut wedges into the seam allowance.
-needed on all seams with an outside (outward) curve.
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Purpose of Notching -remove excess fabric – if not removed will cause the seam to be bulky when turned.
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Method of Notching -v-shaped cuts (wedges) that are cut at
½” apart to the seam line.
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Trimming Corners -corners are trimmed diagonally across the corner.
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Method of Trimming -trim excess fabric from the sides of a point at an angle.
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