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CFFC pg. 509 1. What are the ways to reduce bulk in seams? 2. Describe trimming, grading, clipping & notching.
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Curved Seams
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5.03 Reducing Bulk Regular seam allowance is sometimes too bulky, especially in enclosed areas such as necklines, collars, & cuffs. Curved seams and corners also will be bulky.
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Trimming Cutting off part of the seam allowance. Leave 1/8 to ¼” seam allowance. Used in curves areas, such as underarm or center back seam of pants.
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Grading Trim each seam allowance to a different width. Seam allowance closest to the outside of garment should be the widest. Trim both seam allowances in half & then trim one in half again.
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Clipping Done on inward curves to allow seam allowance to spread Making straight cuts into the seam allowance. Clip after seam is trimmed or graded. Clip every ¼” to ½”
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Notching Use for outward curves to remove excess seam allowance, ie. Curved collars. Cut V-shaped sections from the seam allowance.
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Trimming corners Trim before turning. Trim a right-angle corner by cutting diagonally across the seam allowance.
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For corners with sharp point, cut diagonally across the seam allowance Cut away the side of the corner to remove extra fabric.
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Pay attention to the seam lines
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Inward Curve Seam Skills Grading Clip Corners Diagonally
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Outward Curve Seam Skills Notching Clip Corners Diagonally
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