1. Fragrances, Flavors and Food Additives Dr. AKM Shfiqul Islam School of Bioprocess Engineering University Malaysia Perlis (UniMAP)

2. What is fragrances? Manufacturing of perfume, cologen and toilet water are collectively known as fragrances. Manufacturing of perfume, cologen and toilet water are collectively known as fragrances.

3. Perfume? Perfume takes its name from Latin word perfumare, means to fill with smoke Perfume takes its name from Latin word perfumare, means to fill with smoke Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, objects, and living spaces a pleasant smell. Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, objects, and living spaces a pleasant smell.

4. Back History It was used in incense burned in Egyptian templesThe incenses were mixtures of finely ground spices held together by myrrh or storax It was used in incense burned in Egyptian templesThe incenses were mixtures of finely ground spices held together by myrrh or storax Later on it was discovered that if certain spices or flowers are steeps in fats or oil, the fat or oil would retain certain odoriferous principle. Later on it was discovered that if certain spices or flowers are steeps in fats or oil, the fat or oil would retain certain odoriferous principle. Avicenna, the Arabian physician, discovered the steam distillation of volatile oils. Avicenna, the Arabian physician, discovered the steam distillation of volatile oils.

5. Prior to Modern Era Perfumes manufacture were trained through apprenticeship in the laboratories, working with traditional materials in well defined pattern Perfumes manufacture were trained through apprenticeship in the laboratories, working with traditional materials in well defined pattern They achieved skill in mixing blending of different materials They achieved skill in mixing blending of different materials

6. European Era The returning Crusaders brought the technology to Europe. The returning Crusaders brought the technology to Europe. Classical colognes are at least 200 years old having oriented in Cologne, Germany. Classical colognes are at least 200 years old having oriented in Cologne, Germany.

7. Modern Era The manufacturing process undergone drastic changes in the past quarter centuries. The manufacturing process undergone drastic changes in the past quarter centuries.

8. Location of Olfactory Epithelium

9. Quartz Crystal Smell Sensor Lipids which is known as bioactive materials Gas chromatography stationary phase materials with different polarity is used in GC analysis

10. Concentration levels Perfume oil is necessarily diluted with a solvent because undiluted oils (natural or synthetic) contain high concentrations of volatile components that will likely result in allergic reactions and possibly injury when applied directly to skin or clothing. Perfume oil is necessarily diluted with a solvent because undiluted oils (natural or synthetic) contain high concentrations of volatile components that will likely result in allergic reactions and possibly injury when applied directly to skin or clothing.

11. Formulation The precise formulas of commercial perfumes are kept secret. Even if they were widely published, they would be dominated by such complex chemical procedures and ingredients that they would be of little use in providing a useful description of the experience of a scent. The precise formulas of commercial perfumes are kept secret. Even if they were widely published, they would be dominated by such complex chemical procedures and ingredients that they would be of little use in providing a useful description of the experience of a scent.

12. Creation of acceptable fragrances It require professional knowledge It require professional knowledge Use of available raw materials, both natural and synthetic Use of available raw materials, both natural and synthetic Use of a variety of new types of products requiring fragrances Use of a variety of new types of products requiring fragrances Innovations in packing, e.g., aerosol sprays, perfume powders, cream sachets, gels, lotions, and sticks Innovations in packing, e.g., aerosol sprays, perfume powders, cream sachets, gels, lotions, and sticks

13. Perfume A perfume is defined as any mixture of pleasantly odorous incorporated in suitable vehicle. A perfume is defined as any mixture of pleasantly odorous incorporated in suitable vehicle. The finest modern perfumes are neither wholly synthetics nor completely natural The finest modern perfumes are neither wholly synthetics nor completely natural to reduce the price, and to reduce the price, and to introduce fragrances into the enchanting gamut at present available to introduce fragrances into the enchanting gamut at present available

14. Constituents of perfumes Constituents of perfumes are: Constituents of perfumes are: vehicles or solvents vehicles or solvents the fixatives, and the fixatives, and odoriferous elements odoriferous elements

15. Vehicles Solvents used for blending and holding perfume materials Solvents used for blending and holding perfume materials e.g., ethyl alcohol and water at different ratios – depend on solubility of the oils employed e.g., ethyl alcohol and water at different ratios – depend on solubility of the oils employed It is volatile nature and helps to project the sent it carries It is volatile nature and helps to project the sent it carries It is fairly inert to solute and not too irritating to human skin It is fairly inert to solute and not too irritating to human skin

16. Fixatives Fixatives may be defined as substances of lower volatility of the perfume oils, which retard and even up the rate of evaporation of the various odorous constituents Fixatives may be defined as substances of lower volatility of the perfume oils, which retard and even up the rate of evaporation of the various odorous constituents animal secretions animal secretions resinous products resinous products essential oils, and essential oils, and synthetic chemicals synthetic chemicals

17. Animal Fixatives Animal Fixatives Civet –soft fatty acid secretion of the perineal gland of civet cat Civet –soft fatty acid secretion of the perineal gland of civet cat Musk – dried secretion of the preputial glands of male musk deer found in Himalayas Musk – dried secretion of the preputial glands of male musk deer found in Himalayas Ambergris – calculus, or secretion, developed by certain whales Ambergris – calculus, or secretion, developed by certain whales Musc zibata – extracted from glands of Louisiana muskrat. About 90% of the unsaponifiable materials in the muskrat gland consists of large, odorless cyclic acohols, which are converted to ketones. Musc zibata – extracted from glands of Louisiana muskrat. About 90% of the unsaponifiable materials in the muskrat gland consists of large, odorless cyclic acohols, which are converted to ketones.

18. Resinous fixatives Normal or pathological exudates from certain plants Normal or pathological exudates from certain plants Hard resins – benzoin and gums Hard resins – benzoin and gums Soft resins – myrrh and labdanum Soft resins – myrrh and labdanum Moderately soft (balsams) – Peru balsam, tolu balsam, copiaba and storax Moderately soft (balsams) – Peru balsam, tolu balsam, copiaba and storax Oily materials (oleoresins) – terpenes Oily materials (oleoresins) – terpenes

19. Essential oil fixatives A few essential oil are used for their fixative properties as well as their odor A few essential oil are used for their fixative properties as well as their odor Clary sage Clary sage Vetiver Vetiver Patchouli Patchouli Orris Orris Sandalwood Sandalwood

20. Synthetic fixatives These are replace of costly imported animal fixatives These are replace of costly imported animal fixatives Glyceryl diacetate Glyceryl diacetate Ethyl phthalate Ethyl phthalate Benzyl benzoate Benzyl benzoate Amyl benzoate Amyl benzoate Cinnamic alcohol esters Cinnamic alcohol esters Cinnamic acid esters Cinnamic acid esters Musk ketone Musk ketone Musk ambrette Musk ambrette Vanillin Vanillin Courmarin Courmarin Indole Indole Skatole Skatole

21. Odorous substances Essential oils Essential oils The essential oils may be defined as volatile, odoriferous oils of vegetable origin The essential oils may be defined as volatile, odoriferous oils of vegetable origin

22. Essential oils Essential oils may be defined as volatile, odoriferous oils of vegetable origin. Essential oils may be defined as volatile, odoriferous oils of vegetable origin. Essential oils are probably connected with metabolism, fertilization, or protection from enemies. It found in buds, flowers, leaves, bark, stems, fruits, seeds, wood, roots and rhizomes. Essential oils are probably connected with metabolism, fertilization, or protection from enemies. It found in buds, flowers, leaves, bark, stems, fruits, seeds, wood, roots and rhizomes. In some trees in oleoresinous exudates. In some trees in oleoresinous exudates.

23. Essential oils Essential oils are insoluble in water and soluble in organic solvents, although enough of the oil may dissolve in water to give an intense odor to the solution, e.g., rose water or orange flavor water. Essential oils are insoluble in water and soluble in organic solvents, although enough of the oil may dissolve in water to give an intense odor to the solution, e.g., rose water or orange flavor water.

24. Essential oils The compounds occuring in essential oils are 1. Esters – mainly of benzoic, salicylic, acetic and cinnamic acids 2. Alcohols – Linalool, geraniol, citronellol, terpinol, menthol, borneol 3. Aldehydes – citral, citronellol, benzaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, vanillin 4. Acids – benzoic, cinnamic, myristic, isovaleric in the free state 5. Phenols – eugenol, thymol, carvacrol 6. Ketones – carvone, menthone, pulegone, irone, camphor, methyl nonyl ketone, methyl heptenine 7. Esters – cineole, internal ether (eucalyptole), anethole, safrole 8. Lactones – coumarin 9. Terpenes – camphene, pinene, limonene, phellandrene, cedrene 10. Hydrocarbons – cymene, styrene (phenylethylene)

25. FLAVORS AND FRAGRANCES

26. Extraction process Expression Expression Distillation Distillation Extraction with volatile solvents Extraction with volatile solvents Enfleurage Enfleurage Maceration Maceration Microwave extraction Microwave extraction Supercritical solvent extraction Supercritical solvent extraction

27. Synthetic and semisynthetic process in perfumes and flavors Most of the perfumes and flavors are being made by chemical synthetic procedure Most of the perfumes and flavors are being made by chemical synthetic procedure Some constituents are chemically synthesized from an isolate or other natural starting materials are classed as semisynthetics Some constituents are chemically synthesized from an isolate or other natural starting materials are classed as semisynthetics

28. Synthesis of perfumes and fragrances Condensation porcess Condensation porcess Coumarin occurs in tonka beans and 65 other plants, but the economical source is the synthetic. It is employed as a fixative and enhancing agent for essential oils and tobacco products and as a masking agent for disagreeable odors in industrial products.

29. Synthesis of perfumes and fragrances Esterification Esterification Amyl alcohol and acetic acid give isopropyl acetate Amyl alcohol and acetic acid give isopropyl acetate

30. Synthesis of perfumes and fragrances Grignard process Grignard process Phenylethyl alcohol has a roselike odor and occurs in the volatile oils of rose, orange flowers and others. It is a oily liquid and much used in perfume formulation Phenylethyl alcohol has a roselike odor and occurs in the volatile oils of rose, orange flowers and others. It is a oily liquid and much used in perfume formulation

31. Synthesis of perfumes and fragrances Hydrogenation Hydrogenation

32. Food Additives What are food additives? What are food additives? Any substance added to food that changes its characteristics Any substance added to food that changes its characteristics "any substance the intended use which results or may reasonably be expected to result-directly or indirectly-in its becoming a component or otherwise affecting the characteristics of any food." "any substance the intended use which results or may reasonably be expected to result-directly or indirectly-in its becoming a component or otherwise affecting the characteristics of any food." These are used in the production, processing, treatment, packaging, transportation or storage of food. These are used in the production, processing, treatment, packaging, transportation or storage of food.

33. Additives Are Used To: 1. Maintain product consistency 2. Improve or maintain nutritional value 3. Maintain palatability and wholesomeness 4. Provide leavening or control acidity/alkalinity 5. Enhance flavor or bring out a desired color

34. Benefits of Additives Safer and More Nutritious Foods Antimicrobials = prevent food poisoning from various bacteria and molds Antimicrobials = prevent food poisoning from various bacteria and molds Antioxidants = prevent the development of off- flavors, production of potentially toxic products, and maintain nutritional value of vitamins and lipids Antioxidants = prevent the development of off- flavors, production of potentially toxic products, and maintain nutritional value of vitamins and lipids Vitamins = prevent nutritional deficiencies Vitamins = prevent nutritional deficiencies

35. Benefits of Additives Greater Choice of Foods Greater Choice of Foods Increased development in convenience foods, snack foods, low-calorie foods, exotic foods, and a variety of food substitutes Increased development in convenience foods, snack foods, low-calorie foods, exotic foods, and a variety of food substitutes

36. Benefits of Additives Lower-Priced Foods Lower-Priced Foods Total removal of additives would result in higher prices Total removal of additives would result in higher prices

37. Food Additives Food additives can be divided into several groups, although there is some overlap between them. Acids Acids Food acids are added to make flavors "sharper", and also act as preservatives and antioxidants. Common food acids include vinegar, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid. Food acids are added to make flavors "sharper", and also act as preservatives and antioxidants. Common food acids include vinegar, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid. Antioxidants Antioxidants Antioxidants such as vitamin C act as preservatives by inhibiting the effects of oxygen on food, and can be beneficial to health. Antioxidants such as vitamin C act as preservatives by inhibiting the effects of oxygen on food, and can be beneficial to health.

38. Food coloring Food coloring Colorings are added to food to replace colors lost during preparation, or to make food look more attractive. Colorings are added to food to replace colors lost during preparation, or to make food look more attractive. Flavors Flavors Flavors are additives that give food a particular taste or smell, and may be derived from natural ingredients or created artificially. Flavors are additives that give food a particular taste or smell, and may be derived from natural ingredients or created artificially.

39. Preservatives Preservatives Preservatives prevent or inhibit spoilage of food due to fungi, bacteria and other microorganisms. Preservatives prevent or inhibit spoilage of food due to fungi, bacteria and other microorganisms. Sweeteners Sweeteners Sweeteners are added to foods for flavoring. Sweeteners other than sugar are added to keep the food energy (calories) low, or because they have beneficial effects for diabetes mellitus and tooth decay and diarrhea. Sweeteners are added to foods for flavoring. Sweeteners other than sugar are added to keep the food energy (calories) low, or because they have beneficial effects for diabetes mellitus and tooth decay and diarrhea.