1. Female haircuts - Layered bob
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2. Introduction
The layered bob evolved from the graduated bob, although its square shape is in complete contrast to the graduated bob.
The cutting lines are angled up towards the jaw line, creating an elongated shape at the back of the head. The internal layers are convex, which gives a rounded effect and takes the weight off the perimeter line.
The layered bob is not the easiest shape to cut. It involves creating a geometric outline, which can be difficult to balance.
The overall effect is a geometric shape with a soft, rounded layer and a textured edge.
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3. Step 1 of 14 - Before you cut
Our model's hair is medium texture, which is ideal for this haircut.
She has an oval face shape, and her hairlines are flat and even.
You should look at all these client characteristics when you do your initial consultation and analysis. They influence how you create your haircut and the finished result you can expect.
The layered bob is divided into three sections: back; sides; and internal layers.
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4. Step 2 of 14 - Nape area Start this haircut at the back of the head.
Sectioned off the hair from the nape. Create a straight baseline, using maximum tension.
Clamp the hair onto the skin and use the palm of your hand as a guide. This will help to minimise any graduation.
Always check your client's seating position as you cut. At this point, it should be slightly forward. In a layered bob, you are creating a strong, geometric outline and you must achieve balance from the start.
Cut the hair using maximum tension for greater accuracy.
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5. Step 3 of 14 - Baseline and side area
Before you finish the back area, join in the back and sides areas.
Use your comb to create a diagonal guideline upwards from the base line behind the ear. Take a diagonal section from the nape area up to the front hairline.
Cut the hair freehand using minimum tension to create a well-defined outline shape.
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6. Step 4 of 14 - Side area
Join the sides in from the baseline. Use your comb to give you a diagonal guideline.
Follow a diagonal cutting line, cut freehand and use minimum tension to prevent graduation.
Comb down the next section diagonally using the perimeter shape as your guide.
Check the balance of this area before you comb down further sections.
In a layered bob, it is crucial to get the balance right from the beginning. Use the comb as your guide when you check your haircut for balance.
Repeat this process on the other side.
Tip: Using your comb as a guide will help you achieve the correct angle and produce a balanced haircut.
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7. Step 5 of 14 - Side and back areas
The side back area is complete. The side has been cut using minimum tension and the hair has been allowed to fall from the middle or natural parting into its natural position.
Note that the cutting line is very blunt and there is no graduation.
Our stylist has cut the hair from the baseline up to the jaw and corner of the mouth. There is no fringe.
Cut your shape following this outline.
Tip: Cut the perimeter before you start layering to set the style and direction of your haircut.
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8. Step 6 of 14 - Internal shape
Take a guideline across the top of the head, from the top of the ear to the crown. Use the hair from the sides as a guide to make sure you don't cut into the perimeter.
Cut a convex layer, angling your fingers to create length in the middle of the layer.
Note how our stylist is pulling the hair out from the head and angling their fingers away. This will create a rounded line.
Use the perimeter as a guide to length.
Tip: When cutting the convex layers, create a slight curve with your fingers and follow it to cut the hair longer in the centre and shorter on the outside.
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9. Step 7 of 14 - Sectioning
Create a fan-like sectioning pattern around the head. Work from behind the ear to the centre back and repeat on the other side.
Pull up each section parallel to the head, being careful to maintain the length of the cut.
Keeping length at the top of the head will help you to create your convex line.
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10. Step 8 of 14 - Rounding out/creating the front shape
Pull the front back to the side and crown area. This will give you a heavy front shape.
Create a section behind the back of the ear to the top of the crown. Use this as your guide.
Work towards the front of the hairline using vertical sections.
Balance the cut from the centre, not from the parting.
When both sides are complete, using your curved fingers as a guide, round out any corners that may form a convex shape.
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11. Step 9 of 14 - Finished layering
You have now completed the layering.
You can see here how the outline shape is still intact but the look is much softer.
At this point, the shape is very versatile and you can complete the haircut by adding your own personal touches.
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12. Step 10 of 14 - Razoring technique
Our stylist has chosen to soften the edges of the hair using a safety razor. You can use this technique to bring individuality to your haircut.
Cut the ends of the wet hair using your thumb and the edge of the razor.
Tip: Make sure you know all the safety rules about holding and using your razor.
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13. Step 11 of 14 - Front section
You can also cut the front section using a safety razor.
This will give your haircut a soft edge, and create movement and texture.
Knowing how to create texture will allow you to personalise your haircuts. But be careful to discuss this during the initial consultation when your client is choosing their finished look.
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14. Step 12 of 14 - Colour technique
We used 5/0 Koleston Perfect and 6 per cent Welloxon for our first colour application.
Apply the colour to mid lengths and ends, stopping between 2cm and 3cm from the scalp.
Develop for 10 minutes with heat or 20 minutes without heat.
Note that both the client and the stylist are wearing protective clothing.
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15. Step 13 of 14 - Colour technique
Once the mid lengths and ends are developed, mix fresh colour and apply it to the root area. Starting at the crown, work down to the nape, then from the crown to the front hairline.
Be careful to achieve an even distribution of colour over the head.
Develop again for 15 minutes with heat or 30 minutes without heat.
Tip: Apply your colour in small, clean sections.
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16. Step 14 of 14 - Final result
The hair here has been blow-dried using a round brush (see the section on blow-drying techniques).
We achieved our final result using Wella SP styling spray lotion (see styling products). The product was sprayed into the root area to create volume and root lift.
© Hairdressing-Training.com 2004