1. INTRODUCTION TO

2. 2 Lectures I. Introduction (7) Chap.1, 7,8 A.Textile Materials and Their Performance B.Fiber Classification and Theory C.Fiber Identification II.Textile Fiber Production, Processing, Properties (6) 10-21 A.Natural Fibers (Protein and Cellulosic) B.Manufactured Fibers (Regenerated Natural and Synthetic) III.Yarns (3) 22-25 A.Yarn Formation and Structure B.Texturing and Blending IV.Fabrication 26-29 A.Weaving and Woven Structures B.Knitting and Knitted Structures C.Nonwoven, and Composite Fabrics V.Finishing and Coloration (5) 30-35, 9 A.Physical and Chemical Finishes B.Color, Dyes, Dyeing and Printing C.Textile Labeling

3. Laboratory I. Textile Structure Identification II. Fiber Identification III. Yarn Identification IV. Fabric Construction Identification V. Finishing Identification VI. Dyed and Printed Fabrics Identification 3

4. Lecture 1: Textile Materials and Their Performance 4 Outline:  Introduction  Definition of widely-used Terms  Textile Performances  General Features of Fabrics  Fabricated Textile Products  Fiber Morphology  Fiber Macrostructur e

5. 5 TEXTILES or TEXTILE MATERIALS Textile materials are fibers, yarns, fabrics, and products made from fabrics which retain more or less completely the strength, flexibility, and other typical properties of original fiber or filaments. ASTM (D123-88b), “Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles”

6. 6 Textile Structure Fabric, Yarn, Fiber, Colorant & Chemicals

7. Textile Performance Performance (Serviceability): Measure of a textile’s ability to meet consumer’s needs (major requirements that fabrics generally meet),  Aesthetics: Attractiveness or appearance of a textile product  Durability: How a product withstands use; length of time the product is suitable for the use for which it was purchased

8. Performance Cont.  Comfort: How a textile product affects heat, air, and moisture transfer, interaction of body and textile product.  Maintenance (Appearance retention): How the product maintains its original appearance during use and care*.  Health/safety/protection: its ability to protect the body and environment from a variety of harmful substances. *Care: Treatment required to maintain a textile product’s original appearance

9. Fabrics Definition & Components  A planar structure consisting of yarns or fibers General Features: 1. Fiber 2. Yarn 3. Fabric Construction 4. Interstices (voids) 5. Colorant & Chemicals

10. 1. Fiber 10  Any substance, natural or manufactured, which is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width and can be spun into yarns, or made into a fabric.  Generally the ratio is 1000:1, and fiber diameter varies from 11-50 micrometers  Continuous fiber (FILAMENT): Silk and synthetic fibers  Short fiber (STAPLE): Cotton, wool, cut lengths of filament

11. Structural & Cross-sectional shapes of Fibers 11

12. 2. Yarn  An assemblage of fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric, Spun, Filament, Compound and Fancy Yarn. 12

13. 3. Fabric Construction Arrangement of yarns or fibers within a fabric; – interlacing (woven fabrics) – interlooping (knitted fabrics) – bonding the fibers or filaments (nonwovens) 4. Interstices (Voids) - Spaces in fabrics

14.  Colorants:  Dyes (Mostly soluble)  Pigments (Insoluble)  Chemicals:  Finishing agents  Acids and bases  Surfactants 14 5. Colorant & Chemicals

15. Fabricated Textile Products  Apparel,  Interior Textiles,  Household Textiles, and Institutional Textiles,  Industrial Textiles and Consumer Textiles, 15

16. Classification of Fibers 16  Natural Fibers:  Vegetable fibers:  Seed (Cotton, Kapok, etc)  Bast (Flax, Ramie, Hemp, Jute, etc.)  Leaf (sisal, abaca or manila, etc)  Animal fibers: Silk, Wool, Animal hair (Alpaca, Camel, Mohair, Cashmere)  Mineral fiber: Asbestos

17. Classification of Fibers, cont. 17  Man-made Fibers:  Inorganic Fibers: Glass, ceramic, metal  Regenerated Fiber: Rayon, Polynosic, Tencel, Lyocell, Casein, etc.  Semi-Synthetic fibers: Cellulose acetate  Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide (Nylon), Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Aramides, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Polyurethane (Spandex) ….

18. Fiber Morphology 18  Morphology: Study of size, shape, and structure of a material and the relationships between aspects of structure. Includes:  Macrostructure  Microstructure  Submicroscopic Structure  Fine Structure

19. Macrostructure Observable features of fiber structure;  LENGTH:  Staple: 3/4 - 18 inches (or 2- 46 cm)  Filament: infinite length  Fibers shorter than 15 mm are classified as nontextile fibers  SIZE: Expressed in terms of diameter or linear density, or cross- sectional area  The size of Natural fibers is given as diameter (D), in micrometer (μm), usually D is 11-70 μm, cotton(16-21), wool(17-40)  Fibers exceeding D>50 μm are classified as nontextile fibers  The finer the natural fiber size, the higher the quality of the fiber  Silk and manufactured fibers are given in denier or tex units.

20. Denier:  The weight in grams of 9,000 meters of any linear material,  one denier = one gram of 9,000 meters of fiber, Tex:  The weight in grams of 1,000 meters of any linear material, or 1/9 of 1 denier,  Coarse 6.3-25 denier or 0.70-2.78 tex  Medium 2.2-6.3 denier or 0.24-0.70 tex  Fine fibers <2.2 denier or 0.24 tex  Micro fiber <1 denier or 0.11 tex  Ultra-fine Micro fiber <0.3 denier or 0.033 tex Increase in denier or tex numbers increase in fiber size

21. Macrostructure Cont. CRIMP : refers to waves, bends, twists or curls along the fiber length ▫ Linear, 2- or 3-dimensional, inherent or latent crimp. ▫ Crimp can increase the binding force between fibers. COLOR: ▫ Natural fibers are white or off-white, tan or brown ▫ Manufactured fibers generally are white or off-white, also changeable 21