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Best Management Practices for Florida turfgrasses – Fertility and Cultural
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LAWN
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Have you scalped the lawn?
Used weed and feed more than 2 times a year? Water more than 2 times a week? Fertilize with quick release fertilizer?
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Then lets SHAPE UP!
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Benefits of Turfgrass Functional Benefits Stormwater Runoff Reduction
Soil Erosion Dust Stabilization Heat Dissipation Aesthetic Benefits Safe Play Area Community Pride Increased Property Values Compliments and ties together the rest of the landscape
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Components of best management practices
Right plant, right place Fertility practices Irrigation practices Mowing practices Pesticide spraying Best Management Practices is a multi-faceted approach to preventing potential pollution as a result of home lawn and landscape maintenance. Doing things correctly can limit the impact of lawn care on quality of ground and surface water in Florida. It is up to everybody to make sure that they are following the best management practices in an effort to eliminate any potential pollution problems.
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Which Grass Do You Want to Use?
Bahiagrass Bermudagrass Centipedegrass St. Augustinegrass Zoysiagrass
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St. Augustinegrass (Stenotaphrum secundatum)
Advantages Good shade tolerance Good salt tolerance Tolerant to wide range of soil pH Establishes quickly from sod Dark green color Good shade tolerance is a relative thing- no grass will do well in deep shade or if there are not enough hours of sunlight available. Even shade tolerant grasses need at least 4 hours of sunlight daily. Afternoon sun appears to be more important than morning sun in determining number of hours needed. In very shady areas, we recommend that an alternative shade-loving ground cover be used. Within the St. Augustinegrasses, best shade tolerance is found in the dwarf varieties (i.e., ‘Delmar’ and ‘Seville’). Floritam has relatively poor shade tolerance.
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St. Augustinegrass (Stenotaphrum secundatum)
Disadvantages Poor cold tolerance Poor drought tolerance Poor wear tolerance Forms excessive thatch Susceptible to chinch bugs
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St. Augustinegrass Cultivars
Floratam no longer chinch bug resistant poor cold and shade tolerance Raleigh cold hardy poor chinch bug resistance Bitterblue good shade tolerance, blue green color Classic good cold tolerance Amerishade dwarf with good shade tolerance
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St. Augustine dwarf cultivars
Captiva New dwarf cultivar with great shade tolerance and chinch bug resistance Seville Great shade tolerance prone to thatch and webworms Delmar cold tolerant- good for sun too
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Zoysiagrasses (Zoysia spp.)
Advantages Tight low growing turf Good shade tolerance Resists weeds Good traffic tolerance Disney grass
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Zoysiagrasses (Zoysia spp.)
Disadvantages Slow growing Thatch issues Water needs Fertilizer needs Billbugs Nematodes
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Zoysiagrasses cultivars
Empire El Toro Ultimate flora Lush look of a Northern-type lawn grass for warm-season climates. Easily replaces St. Augustine grass as a residential turfgrass option. Establishes quicker than most other zoysia grasses.
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Bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum)
Advantages Good drought tolerance Low fertility requirements Low maintenance Tolerant of sandy, infertile soils Establishes from seed Relatively low inputs required.
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Bahiagrass (Paspalum notatum)
Disadvantages Produces abundance of seedheads Open growth habit encourages weed competition Susceptible to mole crickets Coarse stems are difficult to mow Not wear tolerant Not as popular as other species due to image as “pasture grass” or low quality grass. Can produce a nice lawn if properly maintained.
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Centipede grass Advantages Slow growing Good drought tolerance
Low fertility requirements Low maintenance Tolerant of sandy, infertile soils Hammock is a good cultivar
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Centipede grass Disadvantages Poor shade tolerance Nematodes
Can be over managed
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Fertilization Goals of fertility programs
To produce healthy, stress-tolerant turfgrass To protect the environment
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Turfgrass Fertility Considerations
Soil testing How to apply fertilizer to not pollute Fertilizer source (quick-release vs. slow-release) Application amount Application timing Fall fertility Fertilizer storage
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Know Your Soil Soil testing should provide the basis for determining a fertility program This includes pH testing as well as extractable levels of macro and micronutrients Do not soil test for N, as it is very mobile Looking at soil fertility levels is widely used in commercial agriculture and on golf courses, but is hardly ever done on residential turf. It is important, however, in determining the fertility regime for a home lawn.
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pH If you soil pH is too low less than 6 you will need to apply Lime
Only apply lime with recommendations from your soil test Use either calcitic limestone or dolomite to lime Water in with ¼ inch of irrigation It will take 4-6 weeks for you to get the pH were it needs to be
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The Fertilizer Bag Numbers refer to percent nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium in the bag Example: has 15% N, (or 7.5 lbs. in a 50 lb. bag) 0% P, 15% K as K2O5 Nutrient sources also listed
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Turfgrass Fertility Considerations
How to apply Fertilizer source (quick-release vs. slow-release) Application amount Application timing Fall fertility
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How To Properly Apply Fertilizer
Be careful not to apply fertilizer particles onto sidewalks, roadways, or other impervious surfaces where they might wind up in the storm drain These points are the foundation of the Green Industries BMPs. It is everyone’s responsibility to follow these and avoid potential situations where we might get leaching of fertilizers or chemicals into ground or surface waters.
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How To Properly Apply Fertilizer
Use a deflector shield when fertilizing near water bodies- this will allow for a 3’ ring – without a shield, leave a 10’ ring These points are the foundation of the Green Industries BMPs. It is everyone’s responsibility to follow these and avoid potential situations where we might get leaching of fertilizers or chemicals into ground or surface waters.
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How To Properly Apply Fertilizer
Irrigate fertilizer in with only enough water to move granules off of leaves (~1/4” water) These points are the foundation of the Green Industries BMPs. It is everyone’s responsibility to follow these and avoid potential situations where we might get leaching of fertilizers or chemicals into ground or surface waters.
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Elements Required for Turfgrass Growth
Micronutrients: Iron Manganese Boron Copper Molybdenum Zinc Nickel Macronutrients: Nitrogen Phosphorus Potassium Calcium Magnesium Sulfur From Environment: Carbon Hydrogen Oxygen Sunlight produces the process of photosynthesis, where the grass takes in carbon. Other elements generally must be applied. Turfgrass needs vary depending on soil fertility, but typically have greatest needs for nitrogen, followed by potassium. Except for high pH situations, you seldom see turfgrasses with micronutrient deficiencies.
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Application Amount Depends on percentage slow-release N
No more than ½ lb. N 1000 ft2 if quick-release Up to 1 lb. N 1000 ft2 if slow-release Better to apply smaller amounts more frequently for optimal physiological functioning of turf Frequent, small fertilizer applications are more beneficial for turf than large, infrequent doses.
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T-Timing The first fertilization is in the Spring -early April
Then May with slow release Fall fertilization is done in September-October Weed control is addressed in late February early March
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Current UF/IFAS Fertility Recommendations (lbs. N 1000 ft-2 yr-1)
St. Augustinegrass: North FL: 2-4 Central FL: 2-5 South FL: 4-6 We provide a range of rates for each grass at each location. For example, a homeowner taking care of his own yard would most likely be at the low end of the range, while a lawn care service would typically be at the higher end. Acceptable quality grass can be maintained within this range of rates.
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Current UF/IFAS Fertility Recommendations (lbs. N 1000 ft-2 yr-1)
Bahiagrass: North FL: 2-3 Central FL: 2-4 South FL: 2-4 Note the lower fertility rates than in St. Augustinegrass.
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Current UF/IFAS Fertility Recommendations (lbs. N 1000 ft-2 yr-1)
Centipedegrass: North FL: 1-2 Central FL: 2-3 South FL: 2-3 Be careful not to overfertilize centipedegrass. Not commonly used in south Florida, but rates included here for comparison.
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Current UF/IFAS Fertility Recommendations (lbs. N 1000 ft-2 yr-1)
Zoysia grass: North FL: 2-4 Central FL: 3-6 South FL: 4-6
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Current UF/IFAS Fertility Recommendations (lbs. N 1000 ft-2 yr-1)
To apply 1 pound of NITROGEN per 1000 square feet Take the percentage nitrogen from the fertilizer label and divide that into 100. The result will equal the pounds of FERTILIZER to apply to 1000 square feet. For a 15/100 = 6.5 pounds of fertilizer to 1000 square
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How Much Phosphorus Do We Need in Florida?
P fertilization should be based on soil test results If a soil test indicates P is adequate in soil, use a fertilizer with no more than 2% P P may be required in greater amounts during establishment of lawns Florida soils often contain high amounts of phosphorus- after all, we supply phosphorus to much of the rest of the world. Since this is an element of concern regarding potential pollutants, it is wise to limit the phosphorus applied as fertilizer unless a soil test indicates the need for it to be applied.
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Fertilizer Rule in Florida on Phosphorus
This rule limits fertilizers that can be sold for use on lawns to those that contain low or no phosphorus (2nd number on the bag), and limits the total annual amount of phosphorous that can be applied to a home lawn. You are allowed to apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn each time you apply fertilizer if the nitrogen is in a slow-release form, or 0.7 pounds of nitrogen if you are using a quick-release source.
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Potassium Provides Increased Tolerance to Many Stresses
Helps turf maintain water balance Functions in cellular activities such as photosynthesis Can enhance cold tolerance and spring green-up Potassium does not enhance turfgrass growth or turn the grass green. It functions within the cells and does many important things on that level. You will not see a response to an application of potassium, but it is important for the plant to be supplied with it.
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Other Considerations for Fertility: Irrigation
Even if fertilizer is applied at proper rates, too much water following fertilizing can result in leaching or runoff Irrigate fertilizer in with ¼” of water Don’t fertilize during a heavy rainfall Amount of water applied through either irrigation or rainfall following fertilization is a critical key in reducing potential leaching. You want to move the fertilizer particle off the leaf blade to just below the soil so the roots can take the fertilizer up. Too much water will move the particles past the root zone, where they can then leach into ground water.
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It’s raining out- should we leave the sprinklers on?
An efficient watering program must include: How frequently to water how much to water time of day to water
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How Often to Water The most efficient way is to apply water when turf begins to show signs of stress: bluish gray color footprints remain leaf blades folded in half Automatic sprinkler systems should not be set to come on automatically. How often to water is influenced by location in the state, time of year, and grass species. It is better to monitor for these signs of wilt and irrigate when deemed necesssary. Do not irrigate if rain is forecast in the next 24 hours.
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How Much to Water An efficient watering only wets the turfgrass root zone, does not saturate the soil, and does not allow water to run off. Apply 1/2” to 3/4” when turf shows symptoms of wilt and do not apply any more until water stress symptoms are again noticeable. In the heavier soils in north Florida, ½ - ¾” of water may be plenty to provide adequate irrigation. In sandier Florida soils, higher amounts of irrigation may be needed.
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Short, frequent irrigations Longer, less frequent irrigations
The objective of drought conditioning is to get the root system to grow deeper. This will make the grass less dependent on irrigation and better able to seek out its own water supply deeper in the soil. Irrigating more often will encourage the roots to remain in the top few inches of the soil, since water is frequently available there. If irrigation becomes less frequent, roots will be forced to grow deeper into the soil in search of water. This will be a much stronger, more stress tolerant plant.
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Time of Day To Water Wet grass = disease opportunity
Dew point should not be extended – grass must dry out Best time to water is just before or at sunrise You want to give the leaf blades a chance to dry out during the day. This is best done by watering around sunrise when possible.
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Irrigation System Efficiency
One of the most important things to do during a drought is to check the efficiency of your irrigation system
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We are under Watering Restrictions
Water only one time per week. Even addresses Sunday Odd addresses Saturday No watering between 10 am and 4 pm Check with GRU or St. John’s River Water Management district for more information.
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Mowing Don’t mow grass when wet Keep mower blades sharp!
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Mowing Mow at highest recommended height for species
Don’t remove more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at any one time Leave clippings on the ground Increase mowing height under any environmental stress (shade, drought, etc.) Mowing at higher heights will also help train the roots to grow downward, resulting in a stronger, more stress tolerant turfgrass. Do not scalp the grass if a mowing is missed- mow at a higher height and bring it down gradually. Scalping causes stress and reduces the vigor of the turf.
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Influence of mowing height on rooting depth
Mowing at higher heights will also help train the roots to grow downward, resulting in a stronger, more stress tolerant turfgrass.
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Mowing Under Drought Conditions
Grass growth is reduced during drought Therefore, mowing needs are reduced You should mow less often, but at the highest recommended height for your grass. This will help to encourage a deeper root system and place less stress on the grass Keep your mower blades at their sharpest to further reduce stress on the grass
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This is far too shaded for turfgrass to grow well in
This is far too shaded for turfgrass to grow well in. This portion of the lawn will not survive after a couple of years.
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How Do I Manage Turf in the Shade?
Remove shade sources (trimming trees) Reduce traffic in shaded areas Increase mowing height if possible – more shoot tissue for photosynthesis will help turf perform better Reduce irrigation in shaded areas Reduce fertilization – trying to promote shoot growth with high fertility will further stress the grass
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Shade Tolerant Turf Centipedegrass Bahiagrass Bermudagrass
St. Augustinegrass = zoysiagrass Centipedegrass Bahiagrass Bermudagrass St. Augustinegrass and zoysiagrass are generally your best choices for shady areas. However, remember that even the most shade tolerant grass can not handle dense shade- generally at least 4 hours of direct sunlight daily are necessary for proper turfgrass growth.
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St. Augustinegrass Shade Tolerance
Captiva, Seville, Delmar, Bitterblue Palmetto Floratam There are differences between shade tolerance within the St. Augustinegrass species. A dwarf cultivar such as Seville or Delmar will provide the best choice for shaded areas. Floritam has poor shade tolerance.
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Weeds Broadleaf Sedges Grass weeds
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Weed Control Begins With Proper Management
Proper Turfgrass Selection This results in thin, weak turf that is very susceptible to weed invasion Proper Cultural Practices Proper fertilization, watering, mowing, and control of other pests are required to produce a dense turf that will prevent weed infestation Sanitation Many times we introduce the weeds
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Chemical Controls Selective, Non-selective Contact, Systemic
Pre-emergence applied prior to weed seed germination Read your herbicide label very carefully
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Spreading Dayflower Hawksbeard Dollarweed Chamber bitter
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Crowfootgrass crabgrass Pendamethalin Halts crabgrass preventer Sandspur
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Nutsedge Globe Sedge Basagran Manage Image
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Hand weeding can work!
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Diseases Gray leaf spot azoxystrobin, propiconazole,
thiophanate methyl, trifloxystrobin.
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Diseases Brown Patch now Large patch Cool weather disease mancozeb,
azoxystrobin propiconazole thiophanate methyl
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Insects Chinch bugs
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Suck the plant juices from grass (generally on nodes
Chinch bugs Suck the plant juices from grass (generally on nodes of runners) resulting in yellowish to brownish patches Damage often first noticed in water stressed areas along edges of lawns Treat with triazicide or bifenthrin
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Tropical Sod Web Worms Summer and fall Notched feeding on blades
Associated with moths Dipel or Sevin
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Grubs Grass thins, yellows, wilts, dies. No roots
Many different beetle culprits Grub Ex
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Inspecting for Grubs Treat with labeled pesticide
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Monitoring for Turf Pests
Weekly pest monitoring is recommended
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Monitoring Chinch Bugs
1) Insert open ended metal can 2 inches into soil in suspected areas 2) Fill can with water, chinch bugs will float 3) Wait 5 minutes then count 4) Repeat in 3 - 4 locations
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In general, healthy turf is better able to withstand pest
pressure than stressed turf Follow guidelines for growing healthy turf printed in the Florida Lawn Handbook
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Now you are ready to attack the lawn! Contact me for help.
Wendy Wilber
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