1. Brown Sauces: Sauce Espagnole, Demi-Glace & Jus Lié
“This is the Espagnole sauce, having reached the limit of perfection...”- Escoffier, (referring to demi-glace)

2. Sauce Espagnole
Generally not used directly but refined into a demi-glace or other sauce
Developed from a French brown sauce by adding Spanish tomatoes…the early 1600’s
Brown Sauce, made by reducing brown stock with a dark roux and tomato product
Tomatoes are optional but do deepen the stock’s color

3. Making Sauce Espagnole
Make a 1# of Brown Roux
Caramelize 2# Mirepoix or Pinçage (Roasted or Sautéed Mirepoix)
Roast the ½# Tomato Product
Add the Roux, Mirepoix, Tomato & Bouquet Garni to Qts. Veal/Beef Stock in a Stockpot and Simmer 1-2 hrs
Skim Frequently
Reduce to Sauce Consistency
Strain

4. Mirepoix vs. Pinçage 2x Onion, 1x Carrot & 1x Celery
Sweetness from onion and carrot
Herbaceous notes from celery
Light and vegetal
Luke
Mirepoix plus…
Tomato product
Caramelized by roasting or sauté
More assertive flavors
Used in brown sauces and stocks
Vader

5. Demi-Glace 50% Sauce Espagnole + 50% Brown Stock, Reduced by 50%
May be used as a finishing sauce or (more commonly) as a base for other sauces
Alternate Liaisons
Arrowroot
Cornstarch
Potato Starch
A “natural” demi-glace or glace de viande is thickened by reduction only (no roux)
Natural Demi-Glace reduced by 80%
Glace de Viande reduced 90-95%

6. Reduction vs. Thickening with a Liaison
Reduction is usually preferred for taste and consistency
Reduction equals a lower yield thus higher cost
A roux or other liaison increases yield
Liaisons may adversely affect flavor, texture or add additional calories and fat.

7. Notice the coating on the spoon
Sauce Consistency
Thin Consistency
Sauce or Nappé Consistency
Notice the coating on the spoon

8. Making Demi-Glace (Classic)
Combine 1 quart of Espagnole with 1 quart Brown Stock
Simmer, Skim and Reduce by 50% -90%
Mushroom Stems may be added during simmering
Finish with a splash of Madeira, Port or Sherry (optional)

9. Making Demi-Glace (Modern v.1)
Roast Veal Breast (Ribs) with Mirepoix
Dégraisser, Deglaze and add all to stock pot
Cover with cold water
Simmer 5-12 hours. Depouillage.
Reduce, season and strain

10. Making Demi-Glace (Modern v.2)
Reduce Brown (Veal) Stock by ¾ or sauce consistency
Requires a stock with abundant gelatin
aka., Glace de Veau, Glace de Viande

11. Jus Lié, Fond Lié or Jus de Veau Lié
Alternative to a Demi-Glace…lighter and easier
Commonly Used in Restaurants as “Demi”
Brown Stock Reduced with a Pinçage (Caramelized Mirepoix and Tomato Product)
Sometimes thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot
Or, thickened by reduction only…requires an abundance of gelatin

12. “What’s Gravy?”
Starch-thickened and de-fatted natural juice from a roast…aka, “jus lié”
In England, just a jus, not thickened
In New England, a thick tomato sauce as in “Sunday Gravy”
Some Types:
“Red-Eye” gravy, made from ham drippings and deglazed with coffee (Southern)
“Sawmill” gravy, a white gravy…essentially a béchamel seasoned by the meat in the frying process…as in chicken-fried steak or a sausage gravy (Southern)
Onion Gravy
Giblet Gravy, …the only reason to eat turkey!

13. Sauce Tomate: Tomato Concassée & Tomato Coulis
French Tomato Sauces are usually a secondary component
Classic Italian or Spanish Tomato Sauce are base sauces flavored around a mirepoix or soffrito
Tomato Concassée
Concasser: “to crush, break, or grind”
Peeled and Seeded and Chopped
Raw or Barely Cooked
Best for In-Season-Ripe Tomatoes
Cooked
Slowly simmered for 5-10 minutes THEN…strain to remove excess liquid (As opposed to cooking all the down and destroying texture and delicacy.)
Tomato Coulis
Smooth purée strained of seeds and peel
Raw or Cooked

14. Tomato Sauces Classically thickened with a roux
French
Italian
Classically thickened with a roux
Uses a white stock, veal or chicken
Uses pork bones or other pork products
No Roux
Simmered with few ingredients
Oregano & Basil are commonly added

15. Improving the Flavor of Tomato Sauces
Use the best, ripest, fresh tomatoes.
Or a good canned tomato…ie, San Marzano
Avoid overcooking the tomatoes
The better the tomato the less need for other ingredients
Herbs, meats, stock, etc.
Use roasting as a means to concentrate tomato flavor and add caramelization flavors
Balance both sweetness and acidity with sugar and vinegar or add a gastrique
Gastrique: caramelized sugar deglazed with vinegar; used to flavor tomato or savory sauces

16. Canned Tomato Products
Tomato Puree
Briefly cooked tomatoes and strained resulting in a thick liquid
Tomato Sauce
Thinner than puree and may have seasonings and flavorings
Tomato Paste (Tomato Concentrate)
Tomatoes that have been cooked several hours, strained and reduced to thick concentrate. Generally fairly sweet.
Whole or Diced
Peeled, seeded and whole or diced. Uncooked.
Crushed
Unregulated description…may have seeds or peels and varying percentages of tomato

17. Canned Tomato Products con’t.
Sweetness (ripeness) varies
Salt is added to bring out the sweetness
Citric Acid
Preserves and corrects acidity
Calcium Chloride
Maintains a firm texture
too much equals metallic taste and "rubbery" texture
Color is NOT necessarily a good indicator of tomato taste. Taste is.

18. Quick Cooking vs. Slow Cooking Tomato Sauces
Marinara*
Ragu
Quick (20 Minutes)
Fresh Tomato Taste
Lacks Complexity
Long Cooking (Hours)
Complex Flavors
Usually Includes Meat and a Soffritto
*Originally, a slow-simmered tomato sauce from Naples. Italian-American Marinara is generally a quick, fresh tomato sauce or, salsa al pomodoro

19. Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Finely Dice Onion and Émincé Garlic

20. Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Puree and Tomatoes through a Food Mill or Passatutto (Removes skin & seeds.)

21. Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Sweat Onions and then Garlic

22. Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Add the Tomato Paste and Sauté (Turns a shade darker)

23. Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Add the Tomato Puree and Season

24. Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Simmer minutes. Finish with fresh basil and splash of olive oil. Check seasoning for sugar, salt, acid & pepper.

25. Next Week’s Midterm: (Discuss)
Cauliflower Soup
Each student makes 1 quart using only:
cauliflower, WATER, butter, onion, shallot, garlic, thyme, bay leaf and cream.
Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls and Vegetables
Each student makes 1 quart
From week one’s recipes
Clam Chowder
Use a clam broth to make a clam veloute
Ingredients are limited to clams, clam juice, potatoes, butter, cream. Salt and pepper.

26. Today’s Lab: Espagnole Classic Demi Glace Demi Glace (Modern)
Tomato Sauce, French
Coulis De Tomates À La Provençale (Tomato Sauce with Mediterranean Flavors)
Chicken Provencale (Poulet à la provençale)
Miso Soup and Dashi