1. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes Workshop „Textiles in Chemicals“ Hamburg, June 14, 2002 Lothar Lissner

2. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes 1.Chemical Scope 2.Eco-toxicological Evidence 3.Regulation, Market and Actors 4.Substitutes 5.Implication for enterprises Content

3. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes Combined results from two case studies 1. Success of Textile Labels 2. Dry cleaning of textiles with PER

4. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes Basic materials Synthetic fibres (Polyester, Polyamid, Polyacrilonitrile Wood pulp (Viscose, Cupro, Acetat) Cotton and flax Wool Silk

5. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes Extractable heavy metals Antimony Arsenic Lead Cadmium Chromium Cobalt Copper Nickel Mercury Tin Zinc Chemicals Free formaldehyde Pesticides (Phenols, PCP, TeCP, OPP) PVC- plasticisers Phthalates Organotin compounds Dyes (arylamines, carcinogenic, allergic) Chlorinated organic carriers Biocides Flame retardants Main problematic substances

6. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes Production Chemicals from the production or manufacturing of basic materials (synthetic fibres, wood pulp, cotton, wool, silk) as pesticides, bleaching chemicals, catalysts as antimony Preparation Cleaning and washing (solvents) Spinning (oils) WAYS OF CHEMICALS INTO THE TEXTILE

7. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes Pre-Treatment Carbonising, washing, dyeing, printing, bleaching, mercerising etc. Finishing Treatments to achieve properties as Easy care, Water repellent, Softening, Anti Static Treatment, Flame retardant, Moth proofing, Anti bactericidal and anti fungicidal WAYS OF CHEMICALS INTO THE TEXTILE

8. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes In many cases: Certainty about the toxic properties as for dyes, pesticides, heavy metals, organo tin Uncertainty or ambiguity about the NO- effect levels On the following pages: Comparison of four label criteria ECOTOXICOLOGICAL EVIDENCE

9. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes ParameterOeko-Tex- Standard II ”In direct contact with skin” Oeko-Tex- Standard III ”No direct contact with skin” EU -ECO-EU Eco-Label Nordic Eco-Label “Nordic Swan” Product group B “Clothes” Ph-Value4,0 - 7,54,0 - 9,0-----Acc. ISO 3071 Free formaldehyde75 ppm300 ppm75/300 ppm30 ppm Extractable heavy metals (in ppm) Antimony Arsenic Lead Cadmium Chromium Cr VI Cobalt Copper Nickel Mercury Tin Zinc (in ppm) 10,0 1,0 0,1 2,0 under detection level 4,0 50,0 4,0 0,02 ---- (in ppm) 10,0 1,0 0,1 2,0 under detection level 4,0 50,0 4,0 0,02 ---- Separated limit values for heavy metals in dyes and pigments, but not in the final product (in mg/kg) ---- 0,2 0,8 0,1 2,0 ---- 4,0 50,0 4,0 0,02 4,0 60,0

10. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes ParameterOeko-Tex- Standard II ”In direct contact with skin” Oeko-Tex- Standard III ”No direct contact with skin” EU -ECO-EU Eco-Label Nordic Eco-Label “Nordic Swan” Product group B “Clothes” Organotin compounds (since 2000) TBT 1 ppm ----Not acceptable Dyes (arylamines, carcinogenic, allergic) Not used Detailed ListDetailed list accor­ ding to the German ban of azo-dyes list Chlorinated organic carrier 1,0 ppm Not acceptable1% of the weight (halogenated subst.) Biocides finishNot acceptable ------Not acceptable Flame retardant finishNone No substance labelled with R45, R46, R50, R52, R53, R60 or R 61 Bromo- and chloro- organic flame retardants not acceptable

11. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes REGULATION Important regulative areas Regulation of raw material production: Pesticides in wool andcotton production – very divergent depending on the regulations in the different 1.,2.,3.World nations Regulation of processing chemicals in the textile manufacturing from different areas, most important: Waste water, dyeing process (see also for a complete overview the BREF- Reference Document on Best Available Techniques for the Textiles Industry, Nov 01) Regulation of the final product Mainly via Labels (Oeko-Tex, European Eco Label, Nordic Swan) Import controls – low enforcement

12. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes MARKET Globalised production Very dispersed supply chain

13. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes ACTORS Divergent views on substitution encountered: Consumers Retail Textile producers in industrialised and 2. and 3. World countries The suppliers of textile chemicals Suppliers of synthetic fibres / Suppliers of natural fibres Governments and WTO Label issuers

14. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes SUBSTITUTES Main strategies Emission reduction by fixing of chemicals to reduce the extractability res emission Substitution or very reduced use of the most hazardous products as carcinogenic dyes or some pesticides Strict emission control as in the waste water area Strict emission control of PER in dry cleaning

15. Kooperationsstelle Hamburg Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes IMPLICATIONS FOR ENTERPRISES Retail services: Trust on existing labels or development of own criteria Textile producers: Trust on the suppliers res. labels or control instruments used by suppliers The suppliers of textile chemicals Development of innovative products