1. Emulsified Egg (Yolk) and Oil (or Butter) Sauces
Warm
Hollandaise
Béarnaise
Cold
Mayonnaise
Emulsified Butter and Acid Sauces
Beurre Blanc
Beurre Rouge
Beurre Citron
Emulsified Butter Sauces
Beurre Fondue
Compound Butters
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

2. Warm Emulsified Egg Yolk Sauces
1 large egg yolk can emulsify up to 7 ounces of oil.
Too much oil, added too fast can break the emulsification
Added too slow, will make the emulsion heavy
Whole butter contains water and milk solids
Weakens the emulsion but has more butter flavor
Classically, use clarified butter OR…
Reserve some of the water/milk solids and add back into the finished sauce
Egg yolks are most effective as emulsifiers when warm*
*Cooked yolks are very weak emulsifiers
Egg yolks begin to coagulate at 144˚F
An acid added to egg yolks minimizes curdling and yolks can be heated safely to 195˚F
From the clarification process
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

3. Cooked Eggs-Various Temperatures
Egg Yolk begins to thicken
Egg Yolk is set
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

4. Warm Emulsified Egg Yolk Sauces, con’t.
Safety
Use clean, sanitized equipment and containers
Make close to service
Hold at 145˚F…1½ Hours Maximum
Make small batches
Never mix an old batch with a new batch
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

5. Clarified Butter (aka., Drawn Butter)
Milk Solids and Water separated from Butterfat
Has a Higher Smoke Point
Less Flavor
Emulsifies better than whole butter
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

6. Make Clarified Butter
Melt the whole butter over a low flame. Ideally use a bain marie.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

7. Make Clarified Butter Skim the whey as it floats to the top.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

8. Make Clarified Butter
For Ghee or “Beurre Noisette” Brown the milk solids
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

9. Make Clarified Butter
Pour Off the Clarified Butter leaving the Water and Milk Solids behind
Milk Solids & Water
Clarified Butter
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

10. Make Clarified Butter
OR, Separate by removing the water and milk solids off the bottom
Milk Solids & Water
Clarified Butter
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

11. Sauce Hollandaise Mother Sauce Warm Emulsified Sauce
Butter (Whole or Clarified)
Egg Yolks
Lemon Juice
Salt & White Pepper
Strained
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

12. Hollandaise (& Béarnaise) Ratio
5 parts butter : 1 part yolk : 1 part liquid
1 Pound of butter
6 Yolks
3 oz of liquid (acid)
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

13. Liquid Portion (Acid) Fresh Lemon Juice or Acid Reduction Citrus
Vinegar
Acid Reduction
Cracked Peppercorns
Shallots
Reduced “Au Sec”
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

14. Make Sauce Hollandaise
Ingredients
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons water
7 ounces warm clarified butter
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Salt and cayenne pepper to taste
Method
Whisk yolks and water off the heat. (This the 1st emulsion)
Cook the sabayon (fr. egg yolk emulsion) to “ribbon” consistency
Off the heat, whisk in clarified butter in a continuous stream
Season with salt, cayenne and lemon juice
Hold at 120˚F
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

15. Make Sauce Hollandaise :Method Details
Whisk yolks and water off the heat. (This the 1st emulsion)
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

16. Make Sauce Hollandaise :Method Details
Cook the sabayon (fr. egg yolk emulsion) to “ribbon” consistency
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

17. Make Sauce Hollandaise :Method Details
Off the heat, whisk in clarified butter in a continuous stream
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

18. Make Sauce Hollandaise :Method Details
Season with salt, cayenne and lemon juice
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

19. Sauce Béarnaise More of a “sister” to hollandaise than daughter
Not made as a derivative of hollandaise, rather a version of
Faux béarnaise is hollandaise with tarragon and capers added
To make Béarnaise: Add a Béarnaise reduction to Sabayon
Béarnaise Reduction:
water
white wine vinegar (white wine plus white wine vinegar)
shallots, minced
cracked peppercorns
fresh tarragon (plus chervil classically)
Reduced to “au sec”…(almost dry)
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

20. Adding Lemon Lemon is used to brighten flavors
Usually added at the end of preparation
Avoid cooking lemon…turns bitter
So…lemons are not used for acid reductions
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

21. Broken Hollandaise Too Hot , Too Cool, or Too much Oil added Too Fast
Gently correct temperature (unless scrambled)
Whisk sauce into a little warm water or a little warm water mixed with an egg yolk
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

22. Whisked Too Slowly or Butter Added Too Fast…Greasy and “Broken”
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

23. Eggs Not Cooked Enough…Thin and Watery
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

24. Eggs Cooked Too Much…Scrambled Eggs
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

25. Hollandaise, Notes Clarified Butter vs. Whole Butter
Clarified Butter, Thicker and less flavorful
Whole Butter, Thinner and but more flavor
Best of both worlds…
Start with clarified butter and then with water/milk solids
Lemon Juice vs. Vinegar Reduction
Vinegar (Escoffier)
Lemon Juice, Fresher Flavor
Less than 4 yolks are easily over cooked
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

26. Two-Minute Hollandaise
Add 1 yolk, 1t. water, 1t. lemon juice & salt in a tall narrow container, mix.
Using a immersion blender, stream in 1 stick of hot (220˚F), melted butter.
Season with salt, and cayenne.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

27. Cold Emulsified Egg Yolk Sauces: Mayonnaise
An emulsion of egg yolk, oil, and vinegar (or lemon juice)
May be made with olive oils or any neutral oil
Mustard is optional but adds flavor and helps to emulsify
Use room temperature yolks
Yolk may be lightly cooked to kill any salmonella OR…
Use pasteurized egg yolks
Make only small amounts and use immediately
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

28. Basic Mayonnaise 1 yolk : 1 liquid : 10 oil Liquid: Oil: Mustard
Lemon juice
Meyer lemon juice
Verjuice (very acidic juice of un-ripened grapes or fruit)
Oil:
Neutral Oils
Grapeseed
Canola
Safflower
Olive Oil
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

29. Add egg yolk and mustard.
Make Sauce Mayonnaise
Secure mixing bowl.
Add egg yolk and mustard.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

30. Make Sauce Mayonnaise Mix. Slowly add oil. CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

31. Season with salt and white pepper.
Make Sauce Mayonnaise
Add some lemon.
Season with salt and white pepper.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

32. Make Sauce Mayonnaise Make only what is needed.
Real Mayo vs. Store-bought
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

33. Aioli (Garlic Mayonnaise)
Garlic Paste add to basic mayonnaise prep
Roasted or poached garlic tempers the garlic
Saffron is sometime added
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

34. Emulsified Butter and Acid Sauces
Beurre Blanc (Beurre Rouge, Beurre Citron)
“White Butter” (“Red Butter”, “Citrus Butter”)
No flour, roux, corn starch!!!
Reduction of white wine, white vinegar and shallots (“gastride”) finished with cold pieces of butter
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

35. Add wine, vinegar & aromatics.
Make Beurre Blanc
Add wine, vinegar & aromatics.
Reduce.
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

36. Beurre Blanc or White Butter Sauce
Traditionally 3 Ingredients: Shallots, White Wine & Butter
Finely minced shallots add flavor and help emulsify the sause.

37. Originally made with Muscadet Wine from Nantes region of France

38. Any crisp-dry white may be used or any acid such as vinegar or lemon

39. The shallots and wine form the base of the sauce and aid in the emulsification of the sauce.

40. The butter should be fresh and of high-quality, COLD and cut into tablespoon-sized pieces.

41. Making the Beurre Blanc: the Gastride
Make the Acid Reduction or “Gastride”.

42. Making the Beurre Blanc: the Gastride
Use a heavy-bottom pan over medium heat and combine shallots and wine.

43. Making the Beurre Blanc: the Gastride
Bring to a simmer and reduce the liquid by about 2/3’s. If not properly reduced, the final sauce will be too thin. The gastride should be reduced to a syrupy consistency.

44. “Au Sec”
Alternatively, reduce to liquid to almost dry (“au sec”). This concentrates the flavor. A splash of liquid is then added back to the pan to start the emulsion process.

45. Make the Emulsion
Over LOW heat or off the heat, whisk in the COLD butter one piece at a time…add the next piece as previous piece has just been incorporated. This helps the sauce from getting too cold.

50. 135˚F Maximum
The sauce will break if you exceed 135˚F or the sauce is allowed to cool below 80˚F

51. Feel the Sauce
The sauce should feel warm but not too hot.

52. Sauce Consistency
The sauce should be light and airy and coat a spoon

53. Season
Season to taste with salt and white pepper.

54. Finish
If the sauce is a bit flat, add a squeeze of lemon juice to brighten the flavors. If it tastes overly acidic, whisk in more butter.

55. “Beurre Nantes”
For a more stable sauce, cream may be added to the gastride and reduced by about ½ before the addition of butter.

56. Use caution that the plate is not too hot
Make Beurre Blanc
Use caution that the plate is not too hot
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

57. Make Beurre Blanc (variations)
Aromatics: Garlic, Ginger or Lemongrass
Spices: Saffron, Pink Peppercorns or Fennel
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

58. Substitute Red Wine and Red Wine Vinegar
Make Beurre Rouge
Substitute Red Wine and Red Wine Vinegar
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

59. Make Beurre Rouge Goes well with fattier meats and fish
Other alcohols: Beer, Vermouth, Cognac or Calvados
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

60. Make Beurre Rouge Balsamic Vinegar makes a dark, less appealing sauce
Citrus and Citrus Zest may also be used (Beurre Citron)
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

61. Make Beurre Blanc (Finish)
Truffle oil
Fresh Herbs
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

62. Make Beurre Blanc (Finish)
Tomato Concassée
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

63. Day 10 Beurre Blanc Practical
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011

64. Today’s Lab Beurre Blanc Sauce Hollandaise Mayonnaise, Basic
Eggs Benedict
Macadamia Nut Crusted Snapper with a Beurre Blanc
Tom Kha Gai (Chicken and Galangal Soup)
Salted Caramel Ice Cream (For Next Class, ‘Desserts’)
CHRM 1120/O'Donnell
Fall 2011