1. Mousselines 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

2. Mousselines Before Studying this chapter, you should already: Have read “How to Use This Book,” pages xxviii-xxxiii, and understand the professional recipe format. Be proficient in fabricating meats, poultry, and seafood. Have read Chapter 12, “Sausages,” understand the principles behind meat emulsions, and be proficient at preparing forcemeats. Have read Chapter 13, “Pâtés and Terrines,” and be proficient at assembling and baking forcemeats. Chapter Pre-Requisites 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

3. Mousselines After reading this chapter, you should be able to: List the primary ingredients in mousselines and explain their functions. Select proper meat, poultry, and seafood items for use in mousselines. Prepare and cook mousselines. Serve cold mousseline items correctly, and select appropriate sauces and garnishes for them. Chapter Objectives 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

4. Mousselines The Mousseline Emulsion The structure of a mousseline depends on two interconnected processes: emulsion and protein coagulation. The preparation of a mousseline begins with creating a meat emulsion, which is a mixture of fat and a water-based liquid. –In the emulsion of a mousseline forcemeat most of the fat is derived from the fat content of the heavy cream. To make a successful mousseline forcemeat, the ingredients must be very cold. –This is to the milk fat from separating out of the cream and to prevent certain meat proteins from breaking down too quickly. Understanding Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

5. Mousselines Protein Coagulation Two types of protein coagulation form the structure of a mousseline. Although it begins as an emulsion, a mousseline forcemeat is primarily held together, or bound, by the process of protein coagulation. The most important protein ingredient in a mousseline is the seafood, poultry, or meat. Meat Proteins: Proteins that are released when a meat substance (beef, poultry, or seafood) is puréed into very fine particles causing: –the muscle tissue fibers in the meat to break down. –the protein-based connective tissue that surrounds the fibers to break down. Understanding Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

6. Mousselines Protein Coagulation When the forcemeat is cooked and the proteins coagulate, they form a protein gel that makes up the primary structure of the mousseline. Primary binder: Main ingredient mixture that causes a forcemeat to hold together. Primary bind: The structure created by grinding or puréeing the primary binder ingredient. Understanding Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

7. Mousselines Egg Proteins and the Secondary Bind Secondary binder: the additional protein needed to strengthen the structure of a mousseline, usually eggs; it helps the meat and fat to bind and stabilizes the emulsion. –After it is puréed, a mousseline forcemeat’s primary meat protein binder is diluted with a large quantity of cream, causing the primary bind to weaken. –The additional coagulation of egg proteins helps strengthen the structure. –Eggs are included with the meat protein as it is being puréed. Understanding Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

8. Mousselines Cream Acting as a Lightener Lightener: Ingredient added to a heavier, base substance to give it a less heavy texture, as cream in a mousseline. Function of a cream lightener: –The milk fat in cream helps form the mousseline’s emulsion. –The milk fat also gives mousseline a rich, creamy mouthfeel. –The water in cream dilutes the protein gel, loosening the mousseline bind. –All of the above make the mousseline forcemeat light in texture. Understanding Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

9. Mousselines Seafood Many kinds of seafood are ideal for making mousselines as they have a soft, tender muscle structure high in proper meat proteins. The following seafood items are listed in order of bind strength, with the first-listed items as those that create the strongest primary bind: –Scallops –Lobsters –Shrimp –White fleshed fish –Salmon Ingredients for Mousselines 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

10. Mousselines Meats and Poultry The meat of young animals is the proper choice for mousselines as it is rich in connective tissue proteins. The following are recommended for use in mousseline forcemeats: –Fryer chicken –Duckling breast –Breast of young game birds –Loin of veal –Top round of veal –Calf or Chicken liver Ingredients for Mousselines 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

11. Mousselines Eggs Seafood items that create a stronger bind need a less powerful secondary binder ingredient. Therefore, they are often bound with lower-protein whole eggs or egg yolks. Mousselines that have too much egg white added are tough and rubbery. Ingredients for Mousselines 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

12. Mousselines Cream Heavy cream with 36 percent milk fat or higher must be used to create a strong emulsion. The cream must be fresh and smooth, with no signs of curdling or acidity. Seasonings and Flavors You must season your mousseline forcemeat with enough salt and other flavorings to give it a good taste, but not so heavily as to mask the basic flavor of the seafood or meat. Ingredients for Mousselines 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

13. Mousselines Guidelines for Meats Used in Mousselines Use tender cuts from young animals. Use only pale-colored meats. The meat must be raw. The protein in cooked meat has already coagulated and thus cannot contribute to mousseline structure. Use meat having little or no interior fat. Trim the meat completely free of deposit fat. Solid animal fat is not included in mousseline forcemeats. Ingredients for Mousselines 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

14. Mousselines Fabrication and Straining for Smoothness The seafood, poultry, or meat intended for mousselines must be free of fat and connective tissue. Trim the internal and external connective tissue from the poultry and meat, in addition to any visible deposit of fat. The forcemeat mixture is forced through a tamis, or fine-mesh drum sieve, to remove solid animal fat or connective tissue. Preparing Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved Seafood mousseline being forced through a tamis

15. Mousselines Temperature Requirements Keep all ingredients ice-cold at all times. Chill all equipment that will come into contact with the ingredients, and keep the seafood, poultry, meat, and other ingredients refrigerated or in an ice bain-marie. Work in small batches, and proceed as quickly as possible. Preparing Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

16. Mousselines Mixing Procedure When making a mousseline forcemeat, mix the ingredients in the proper order. The meat protein, egg, and flavorings are first ground together in a food processor. Only when these ingredients have been reduced to a fine, smooth purée can you add the cream. –The cream must be added gradually in a thin stream, through the feed tube. Preparing Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

17. Mousselines Texture of a finished mousseline depends on the ratio of binding ingredients to lightening ingredients. Basic ingredients ratio for mousseline forcemeats: –1 lb (0.5 kg) meat. –1½ oz (45 g) egg whites. –12 fl oz (360 mL) heavy cream. Preparing Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

18. Mousselines Evaluating the Bind Both the desired bind of the forcemeat and the resulting density of the finished mousseline depend on its intended use. A mousseline preparation that is meant to be unmolded and sliced must be more solid and tightly bound. For poached quenelles or for small, individual mousselines that will be unmolded, a medium bind is desired. Mousselines that will be used as fillings, and ones that will be served in cups or ramekins, can be made very light and soft. Preparing Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

19. Mousselines Evaluating the Bind When you have finished mixing a mousseline forcemeat recipe that is new to you, cook off a small sample in order to evaluate its bind. Cooking and tasting a sample helps you evaluate the seasoning. The most efficient way to cook a forcemeat sample is to wrap a small cylinder of forcemeat in plastic film and poach it. This procedure is called a poach test. Preparing Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved Poach testing seafood mousseline forcemeat

20. Mousselines Cooking Mousselines Mousseline forcemeats need moist, low heat in order to turn out smooth and tender. They may be baked in a form or shaped into quenelles and poached. Quenelles are delicate ovals of mousseline poached in barely simmering water or in a cuisson. Preparing Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

21. Mousselines Storing Mousselines Once it has cooled to room temperature, a mousseline must be immediately refrigerated. Like pâtés, mousselines acquire a better flavor and texture after 24 hours of mellowing. The holding time for a cooked mousseline varies with the perishability of the main ingredient. Mousselines made from seafood or liver must be used within about 48 hours. Chicken mousselines may be kept under refrigeration up to five days. Preparing Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved

22. Mousselines Presenting Cold Mousselines Sometimes mousselines are intended to be served as hot appetizers, but many are also served cold. Mousseline-based terrines are sliced and served in the same manner as pâtés, either in platter or plate presentation. In either case, they are usually served with a sauce and one or more garnishes. Preparing Mousseline Forcemeats 15 Chapter Copyright © 2015 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved