1. Machine Stitching Techniques Obj. 3.02 Understand Engineering & Construction

2. Stitch Lengths  Stitch Length is determined by the purpose.  A medium stitch length is most common.  Basting stitches are very long.  Reinforcement stitches are very short.

3. Standard Stitching  Use : Permanent seams & construction details.  Most Fabrics : 10-12 inches  Finer Fabrics: Shorter stitch between 12-15 stitches per inch.  Heavy Fabrics : Longer stitch 8-10 stitches per inch.

4. Basting  Machine basting holds two pieces of fabric together until they are permanently stitched.  Used also on a single layer of fabric for:  Easing  Gathering  Marking guidelines

5. Reinforcement Stitching  Adds strength to areas that will be clipped or trimmed close to the stitching line or areas such as armhole, crotch and corners.  Short stitch – 15-20 stitches per inch.

6. Stay-stitching  Prevents fabric stretching  Placed along bias & curved edges  Added after:  Fabric marking  Before pinning  Basting  Permanent stitching

7. Stay-Stitching cont.  Stay-stitching should be done on a single layer of fabric 1/8 inch from seam line & within the seam allowance.  Acts as a guide for clipping & joining curved edges.

8. Directional Stitching  Helps prevent a seam from changing or stretching while stitching.  Produced by stitching with or in the direction of the fabric grain.

9. Standard Seam Stitching Produces  5/8 inch seam  Used in most patterns. Plain seam: 5/8 inch

10. Backstitching  Secures the ends of a row of stitching.  Begin ½ inch in from end.  Stitch backward to edge of fabric.  Continue sewing to other end.  Backstitch ½ inch from end.

11. Understitching  Keeps facing or the under side of fabric rolled out of sight.  Created from standard stitching  Stitch from right side of fabric through facing & seam allowances, 1/8 inch from seam line.

12. Topstitching  Decorative or functional stitching placed on the outside of a garment.  Outlines – Seams  Secures - Facings  Attaches – Pockets  Stitches - Pleats  Holds - Hems

13. Edgestitching  Holds fabric & seams in place.  Row of stitching ¼ inch from finished edge.  Used in areas as:  Neck edges  Zippers

14. Stitch-in-the-ditch

15. Zigzag Stitching  Zigzag stitch uses:  Finish seams  Stitch buttonholes  Attach cording & elastic  Create decorative designs.  Button Hole  Seam Finish

16. Specialty Stitches  Most machines have a variety of specialty stitches.  Specialty Stitches  Add decorative aspect to garment  Can be made by a serger or sewing machine.  Machine & Serger specialty stitches