1. A Cosmetic Chemists Guide to Natural Formulating Standards
Perry Romanowski
Element 44 Inc

2. Natural Formulating

3. Involved in Natural Formulating
Natural Formulating Course
Blogging Audience
Demand

4. Lots of interest in Natural Formulating

5. Learn how to create effective natural formula
Online course
Define Natural
Explore functional natural ingredients
Specific natural skin & hair formulations
How to market natural products

6. Scope Natural Cosmetic Market Natural Standards Groups Standards
Should you get certified?

7. Natural Cosmetic Market
$30 billion globally 2013

8. Small Natural Brands

9. Bought By Clorox
For >$900 million
Bought By Colgate
For $100 million

10. Greenwashing

11. Modern Day Greenwashing
Active Naturals
Oat, Soy, Seaweed
Oh yeah….
Dimethicone
Petrolatum
Isopropyl Palmitate

12. Natural has no legal definition

13. Media
Chemical
Fear
Mongers

16. Natural Standards Groups

17. Major US Natural Standards Groups
USDA
National Sanitation Foundation
National Product Association
OASIS

18. Highest Standard - NPO
USDA regulates term “organic” as it relates to agricultural products through its NOP regulation, 7 CFR Part 205
Label cosmetics as organic if they meet same criteria governing organic food certification

19. USDA – NPO labeling categories
“100% Organic” – Contains only organically produced ingredients
“Organic” – Contains 95% organic ingredients
“Made with organic…” – Contains 70% organic ingredients
Can’t use the seal

20. Most people follow USDA rules
Labeling Confusion
USDA labeling rules
INCI labeling rules
Most people follow USDA rules

21. NSF / ANSI Organic Standards
Not as strict as USDA standards
“Contains Organic Ingredients”
70% or more organic – O70
State exact percentage of organic content
Harmonized with NaTrue in EU

22. Natural Product Association Standards
“Protect & equip consumers to maximize their well being”
Standards cover all FDA defined cosmetics
For products labeled “Natural”
Based on
Natural ingredients
Safety
Responsibility
Sustainability

23. International Natural Standards

24. COSMOS Standards Promote organic agriculture Use natural resources
Clean processing and manufacture
“Precautionary Principle”
Integrate Green Chemistry principles

25. Principles of Green Chemistry

26. Whole Foods Standard Premium Body Care Standards Four key areas
Results
Source
Environmental Impact
Safety
List of 400+ ingredients not allowed

27. Details of the Natural Standards

28. Definition of Natural
Not Synthetically Derived or Synthetically processed
If it’s not from a plant, it’s not natural
USDA definition
Other standards are not as strict

29. Common Standards Water is natural Mineral ingredients are natural
Physically processed agro-materials are natural
Some chemical processing of agro materials
Some synthetics allowed

30. Some Prohibited Ingredients
Parabens
Formaldehyde Donors
Petrolatum & petroleum derived
Propylene glycols
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Ethanolamines
Synthetic Silicones
Synthetic Fragrances
Synthetic Polymers
EDTA

31. Differences in Standards
Positive List – NPA, COSMOS
Negative List – Whole Foods, NPA
Nanoparticles – prohibited by COSMOS, Whole Foods. NPA? NSF?
GMO – Prohibited by COSMOS
Not by NPA
Animal Testing – Prohibited by COSMOS

32. Some Chemistry Allowed
Distillation
Esterification & Etherification
Expression
Extraction
Fat Splitting
Fermentation
Hydrogenation
Protein Hydrolysis
Saponification
Sulfation – (no SLS)

33. How to get certified Learn the specifics of the certification
Create your formulas
Pay money to the certifying group
Once you’re approved, you can use the label
Continually get certified

34. Should you get Certified?

35. Should you get Certified? - Yes
It appeals to consumers
Stand apart from competition
Get clear formulation guidance
It may eventually be required

36. Should you get Certified? - No
Consumers don’t know standards
It costs money
It restricts formulating / innovation
You give up control

37. Should you get Certified?

38. Learn how to create effective natural formula
Online course
Define Natural
Explore functional natural ingredients
Specific natural skin & hair formulations
How to market natural products
Started 2/17/15