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3.2 Twill weave derivatives
Variations of twill weaves are many. Twill weave can be modified by extending the floats, changing the shift or both. It has a great potential for the introduction of ornamentation into the fabric.
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3.2.1 Reinforced twill 1. concept:
Reinforced twill weave is the simplest twill weave derivatives, which can be constructed by adding warp or weft marks beside the original ones. See Fig A B C Fig reinforced twill
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The reinforced twill is denoted by fraction
The reinforced twill is denoted by fraction. The numerator indicates warp overlaps; and the denominator indicates weft overlaps. The direction of the diagonal line is denoted by arrowhead. e.g. ↗at Fig. A, ↗at Fig. B, ↖at Fig. C.
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2. Weave drawn Drawing reinforced twill diagram is quite similar to fundamental twill.
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3. Weaving plan Straight draft is considered first. Skip draft is chosen where the warp density is too high. See Fig Fig skip draft for reinforced twill
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4. Applications Reinforced weaves are widely used in varied fabrics, such as serge, gabardine, drill, and are also used in selvedges of other fabrics.
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3.2.2 Compound twills 1. concept:
The compound twill is obtained by constructing two or more parallel twill lines in the same area. It has a fancy diagonal appearance. The compound twill is denoted by fraction. The numerators indicate warp overlaps; and the denominators indicate weft overlaps. The direction of the diagonal line is denoted by arrowhead. See Fig :(A), (B), (C).
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Fig Compound weaves
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2. Weave drawing Drawing compound twills are as following steps:
1) Calculating the repeat R: Ro = Ry = numerator +denominator. 2) Drawing the first end according to the fraction given. 3) Drawing the other ends based on the first one and shift (where shift is ±1).
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3. Weaving plan ■ Straight draft if often employed to weave compound twill Example ↗ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
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4. Applications Compound twills are widely used in fancy fabrics due to its interesting appearance. A compound twill sample:
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Home works: 1. Drawing the following reinforced twill weaves.
2/3↗, 4/3↖, 3/5↗, 4/4↖ 2. Drawing the following compound twill weaves. ↗, ↖, ↖, ↗, ↗, ↗.
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