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RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach.

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Presentation on theme: "RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach."— Presentation transcript:

1 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches Islands Shelf Surf Beach

2 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications Islands Shelf Surf Beach IOOS – National Waves Plan

3 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf

4 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf Julie: LA/LB Harbor Website

5 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf

6 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf

7 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications Information Flow Surf Beach Islands Shelf Dr. “Where the Sewer Meets the Surf” Guza : Alongshore Currents

8 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

9 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : Modeling Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

10 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : Modeling Framework Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

11 Alongcoast Model Prediction “MOP” Sites - 10m water depth. - 100m alongshore spacing.

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15 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : Modeling Framework Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

16 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : The “Buoy Network Wave Model” Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

17 Huntington Beach Wave Buoy Huntington Beach Case Study Buoy Network Model Validation

18 Offshore Wave Buoys Measure Arriving Swell from the Open Ocean Model Validation “Buoy Network” Spectral Refraction Model

19 Huntington Beach Wave Buoy South swell North swell Huntington Beach Case Study: Swell Transformation “Buoy Network” Spectral Refraction Model

20 Local Wave Buoys Measure Locally Generated Seas 3. Model Validation “Buoy Network” Spectral Refraction Model

21 Huntington Beach Wave Buoy Local Seas Huntington Beach Case Study : Sea Transformation 3. Model Validation

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23 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : The “Buoy Network Wave Model” Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

24 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves & Currents: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : Towards RSM Tools Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

25 Why Does San Diego’s North County Have So Much Trouble Retaining Sandy Beaches? Example Application :

26 Oceanside Littoral Cell: The “River of Sand” Wave-Driven Net Southward Sand Transport Sand Leaves Cell at Scripps Submarine Canyon

27 CDIP Buoys Wave Climate : Oceanside Littoral Cell Alongshore Wave Climate Reconstruction 1 Year: 4/1/02 - 3/31/03 Incident waves Cross-shore Component Alongshore Component

28 Duration of Large (Erosional) Wave Conditions

29 DowncoastUpcoast Net Annual Alongshore Sand Transport

30 Wave-driven Lagoon Sub-Cells Batiquitos Sub-Cell Moonlight Sub-Cell San Elijo Sub-Cell Fletcher Sub-Cell San Diegito Sub-Cell Penesquitos Sub-Cell Torrey Pines Sub-Cell

31 Predicted Max Potential Beach Width Erosion WINTER 2002-2003 Max Potential Beach Width Erosion (m)

32 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

33 RSM (Coastal Evolution w/ Climate Change) Sediment Transport Prediction Sand: ATV Surveys Sand: LIDAR Surveys Beach Safety (rips) Pathogen Transport (beach closures) Inundation Surfzone Wave & Current Prediction Waves: PUVs Sand: Jetski Surveys Beach Safety Coastal Engineering and Planning Nearshore Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys Waves: PUVs Marine Navigation Regional Wave Prediction Waves: Directional Buoys ObservationsModels Applications SIO Waves & Beaches : The Observation Challenge Information Flow Islands Shelf Surf Beach

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