1. Waves and Tides Wave movement and properties Wind and waves
Waves and beaches
Making a tide
Tide theory
Tides and basins, shores

2. Wave movement Longitudinal waves: E transmission in same direction
Transverse waves: E transmission is perpendicular
Orbital waves: E transmission across interface
Height H
Wavelength L
Steepness H/L
Period T
Speed S = L/T = Lf
= gT/2
Frequency f = 1/T
Depth = L/2
Shallow waves:
D < L/20
S = (gD) = 3.1(Dm)

3. Wind and Waves Wind-generated waves
Capillary waves (ripples): L < 1.74 cm
Gravity waves: L > 1.74 cm
Sea: where wind generates waves
Steepness = 1/7 whitecaps: energy loss; fully-developed
Wave trains and interference
Rogue waves

4. Surf Swell releases E at surf zone If local waves: rough, uneven surf
Wave “drags” bottom L H break
Circular oscillation outrun wave: plunging breakers
turbulent water, air: spilling breakers (gentle slope)

5. Waves and Beaches Refraction Waves bend around objects
Reflection/diffraction
Waves reflect off objects

6. Waves and Beaches
Storm surge
Tsunamis

7. Tides Gravity, distance important Gravity: g = (m1m2)/r^2
Tidal force  (m1m2)/r^3
Simple model: moon above equator, no earth tilt

9. Tides 2: Variables elliptical orbit of earth, moon declination of moon
tilt of earth

11. Tides 3: Land + Water
Amphidromic points

13. Tides and Geomorphology
Bays, gulfs: geomorphic features effect
Open ocean: amphidromic point + Coriolis force
Reversed and ebb currents
Tidal bores

14. Waves, Tides, and Organisms
Waves: high energy, turbidity in surf zone
--> Stabilization, damage resistance, feeding
Tides: change in H2O P, depth, salinity, T nearshore
Daily effects: feeding, activity
Annual effects: timing of breeding, recruitment